Ussuriysk
Introduction
Ussuriysk sits in the valley of the Razdolnaya River in Primorsky Krai, roughly 98 kilometers north of Vladivostok, the administrative center of the krai. It also lies about 60 kilometers from both the China–Russia border and the Pacific Ocean, placing it within reach of the sea and of the frontier alike.
Before you go
Before you go, note that the source material for Ussuriysk offers no practical preparation details beyond a "Stay safe" heading, so there is little concrete guidance to pass on. You will need to consult other sources for essentials such as when to visit, what to pack, and how to get there.Getting there
Most travellers reach Ussuriysk by intercity train, either from Vladivostok or Khabarovsk. Trains are the slowest option because they stop at every station along the route. A weekly train crosses the Russian border at Khasan from North Korea, though this is an impractical choice for most visitors. Buses shuttle between Khabarovsk and Vladivostok twice a day in each direction, and services to Vladivostok and Nakhodka depart roughly every hour. Note that these buses lack air conditioning, which matters in summer. Daily buses to China do have it.
Ussuriysk is also a point where you can continue from the Trans-Siberian Railway onward to China, via Pogranichny to Suifenhe.
Getting around
Ussuriysk's historic core is compact, green and easy to cover on foot. Most of what you will want to see sits within the streets around Lenina, Chicherina, Krasnoznamyonnaya and Ageyeva — the central square and its monuments, the old Grand-Illyuzion movie theatre, the Intercession Church and the city's oldest hotel on Lenina Street. The one gap in this walkable picture is the railway station, which sits somewhat far from the centre and is not a convenient walk into town; bridge it with a taxi or a bus heading "to the centre".
Buses are the main way to move around and to reach the city from elsewhere, with intercity services running twice daily in each direction between Khabarovsk and Vladivostok and roughly hourly departures to Vladivostok and Nakhodka. Daily buses also run to China, and those international services are air-conditioned while domestic buses generally are not — worth knowing in summer. For short hops around town, or when you are carrying luggage, a taxi is the most straightforward option. There is no metro or tram network; rail here means the mainline station and intercity trains, which are convenient but slow, stopping at every station along the route. If you arrive by air, you will come through Vladivostok and continue by intercity train or one of the frequent buses, then finish the last leg from the railway station by taxi or bus.
Where to stay
Most of Ussuriysk's accommodation clusters in the city centre, within easy reach of the main sights. The largest option, Ussuriysk, sits on Ulitsa Nekrasova and draws a largely Chinese clientele; it has a Russian-style cafe serving buffet meals, a small bar next door, and laundry service. Layner on Ulitsa Frunze is a cosier choice, though it has no restaurant of its own. If you need to be near the bus station on Ulitsa Chicherina, there is a hotel right at the terminal.
- Ussuriysk (Ulitsa Nekrasova) - the biggest hotel in town, central, with a buffet cafe, bar and laundry
- Layner (Ulitsa Frunze) - small and comfortable, no on-site restaurant
- Marco Polo (Ulitsa Ageyeva) - business hotel with restaurant, contemporary furnishings and breakfast included
- Postoyaly Dvor (Ulitsa Ageyeva) - business hotel with restaurant, single, double and quadruple rooms
- Hotel at the bus station (Ulitsa Chicherina) - convenient for early departures
Food & drink
For a meal, head to Komsomol'skaya Ulitsa, where Country Pizza serves pizza, burgers and skillets, plus breakfasts on weekdays, and Tokyo Ussuriysk offers sushi, miso and tempura. On Ulitsa Lenina, Vostochnaya Chaykhana dishes up Georgian and Asian cuisine along with desserts. When you want a drink, Kraft-Bar "Dym" on Ulitsa Lenina is a bar with hookah, snacks and a dance floor. Taverna Kapitana Flinta on Ulitsa Nekrasova serves solid fare and beer, while Bil'yardnyy Klub Imperiya on Proletarskaya Ulitsa is a billiards hall with lunch and dinner items.What to see and do
In the downtown area, the historical development from the late 19th and early 20th centuries is well preserved, so a walk through the centre gives you a sense of the city's older architecture. In the city's park you can find the monument of the tortoise, a carved bìxì — a mix of turtle and dragon — of a type once placed on the graves of the Jurchen imperial family in the 12th century. Several sights cluster along Krasnoznamennaya Ulitsa: the Eternal Flame at Victory plaza, a WWII commemorative site, and the Ussuri Museum, which holds relics relating to Ussuri Province along with sewing machines and similar items. The Church of the Intercession of the Holy Virgin stands on Ulitsa Chicherina. Park Dora on Ulitsa Volodarskogo is where you'll find the bìxì turtle. A few kilometres south of the city off the A189, the Russian Historical Park of Family and Children's Rest "Emerald Valley" offers a look at things distinctive of Russian heritage and grandeur, such as wood forts, mammoth statues and Rus warlords. At the Korea Cultural Center on Amurskaya Ulitsa you can learn about the history of the Ruso-Korean people, including their plight under Stalin. For a film, there is Cinema Russia on Ulitsa Nekrasova.Three days in Ussuriysk
Day one: Start in the centre of Ussuriysk, where the main sights cluster along Lenina Street. Walk the length of Lenina, then branch onto Chicherina, Krasnoznamyonnaya and Ageyeva to take in the historic buildings that give the city its character. Break for a film at the Grand or Illyuzion cinema, and eat at Layner, where the Chinese kitchen reflects the city's long ties across the border. If you have time before dark, follow the Razdolnaya River, which runs through Primorsky Krai and shapes the layout of the town.
Day two: Use Ussuriysk as a base for the borderlands. Buses and trains connect the city with Khasan, Pogranichny and Suifenhe, the crossing points toward China and North Korea, and the Trans-Siberian Railway passes through on its way to Vladivostok and Khabarovsk. Note that most long-distance services are daily rather than frequent, so plan around them. Back in town, visit the Intercession Church, then spend the evening on Ulitsa Nekrasova, where you can find Russian cooking alongside the Chinese places that give the city its mixed table.
Day three: Stay close to the centre and slow down. Return to Lenina Street for the parts you missed, and take a last walk along the Razdolnaya River. If you are heading onward, Ussuriysk sits within easy reach of Vladivostok and the Pacific Ocean coast, with Nakhodka and the Khasan corridor also served from here. For a quieter finish, choose a meal at one of the Chinese restaurants and consider how this small Russian city sits at the meeting point of Russia, China and North Korea.