Grozny
Introduction
Grozny is the capital city of Chechnya, Russia, set on the Sunzha River. It was previously known as Groznaya. The city was destroyed in two wars in Chechnya, and its later history has been one of rebuilding.
Before you go
Grozny's story is a heavy one, and knowing it will shape what you see. Founded as a Russian fort, it became a major stronghold during the Caucasian Wars, then boomed in the early 20th century on the strength of its oil reserves. During World War II, Stalin accused the Chechen people as a whole of collaborating with the Nazis and had them deported to Central Asia; the republic was abolished and repopulated with settlers from elsewhere in the Soviet Union. After 1956 the Chechen-Ingush Republic was reinstated and Chechens were allowed to return, but no provisions were made to compensate them for lost homes and property, many of which were by then occupied by newcomers. That resentment, along with the experience of deportation, fed the tensions that followed. In the 1990s rebels fought to wrest control of the city and the rest of Chechnya from Russia, and the government lost partial control. Peace began to return in the late stages of the war in the 2000s, and the city once dubbed the most destroyed in the world has been largely rebuilt, now sporting tree-lined boulevards and cafes. The political situation has stabilized and Grozny is no longer a warzone; it is now as safe to visit as any other part of Russia. Do be careful, though, of approaching unidentified objects, as they could be unexploded ordnance left behind from the war.Getting there
Grozny's transport network was largely destroyed during the years of war, so getting there takes planning. Since reconstruction began, however, it has become possible to arrive by air, rail, bus or car.
- By plane: The main air gateways are Vnukovo and Domodedovo airports in Moscow, plus Bishkek Airport in Kyrgyzstan. Grozny Airport (GRV) serves the city itself.
- By train: A night train leaves Moscow every second day and takes two nights; it is heavily guarded because of terrorist threats, so expect delays and hassles. There is also a night train from Rostov-on-the-Don and a day train from Astrakhan, while local trains connect with Khasavyurt and Gudermes.
- By car: The P-308, P-307 and M-29 highways link Grozny with the rest of Russia. Take a map, or you can get lost.
- By bus: Buses usually leave from Nazran to Grozny and other cities in the Caucasus region, so pay attention to where you plan to get off.
Getting around
Getting around Grozny is not straightforward. The tram network was almost destroyed during the siege of the city and is not expected to reopen, and there is no metro. Trolley buses have restarted, but the network is still limited and not fully developed, so you should not count on public transport to cover all your movements. For most trips within the city, a car or taxi is the most reliable option.
- Taxis: One of the most practical ways to move around. A religious taxi company called Islam operates in the city using green-painted cars.
- Trolley buses: Running again, but on a limited and still-developing network.
- Walking: Possible in the central parts of the city, but not the most efficient way to cover the whole of it; most visitors combine walking in the centre with taxis or a car for longer trips.
- Driving: The P-308, P-307 and M-29 highways connect Grozny to other cities in Russia. Driving gives you the most flexibility, but carry a map, as it is easy to get lost without one.
- Buses: Services link Grozny with other cities in the Caucasus region of Russia, including from Nazran. Confirm your stop in advance rather than assuming the driver will announce it.
Where to stay
For a modern stay, the Hotel Arena City is described as good and cheap, with the essentials you would find in hotels elsewhere in the country. It is new and modern, and more hotels are being built in the city. Note that rebels are reported to closely monitor hotels, so be careful. One further option is Hotel Grozny City on pr. Kadyrova.Food & drink
For a meal in central Grozny, Café Oasis is a reasonable option, though it can be difficult to find, so you may need a guide to locate it. For Chechen cuisine, Zhizhig & Galnash is a nice choice right in the centre, on Putin Ave. Note that there are no bars in the city, as local Sharia law prohibits drinking alcohol in public. Beer is nonetheless sold by many local vendors, though it can only be sold legally during restricted hours. You will also find plenty of cafes serving Chechen food and non-alcoholic drinks.What to see and do
Start with the Akhmad Kadyrov Mosque, completed in 2008 and known locally as the Heart of Chechnya. It is the largest mosque in Russia and among the most lavish in the world, so it is the obvious first stop for any visitor. Also worth seeking out is the Church of St. Michael the Archangel, which was renovated after being almost destroyed during the Siege of Grozny.
- Wander Downtown Grozny, where lights, shops and restaurants are concentrated and prices are reasonable.
- Pick up fruit or beer from the many street stands in the downtown area.
- On weekends, watch football at the Sultan Bilimkhanov Stadium, home ground of FC Terek Grozny in the Russian Premier League.
When to go
< p>Grozny has a humid continental climate, so the seasons shape your trip considerably. Summer is hot, and it is also the wettest time of year, with precipitation peaking alongside the most sunshine hours in early summer. If you visit then, expect heat and the year's brightest but rainiest stretch. < p>Winters are cold, bringing low temperatures and a quieter, chillier stay. Choose between the two depending on whether you prefer intense summer warmth and long bright days or a colder, more subdued visit.Three days in Grozny
Day one: Arrive at Grozny Airport (GRV) and settle into the city before an easy first afternoon. Grozny sits on the Sunzha River in Chechnya, within Russia, and its story runs from the fortress of Groznaya, founded during the Caucasian Wars, through the devastation of World War II under Stalin and the later deportations of Chechen and Ingush people to Central Asia. Begin with the city centre and the river, then take a walk to get your bearings. For dinner, look for Chechen dishes in the city's cafes and restaurants.
Day two: Give the day to Grozny itself. The city was rebuilt after the wars of the 1990s, and the central districts show the new face of the republic, with the Sunzha River running through the middle. Spend the morning on foot in the centre, then cross to the quieter streets and markets to see everyday life. In the evening, return to the riverside, where the city is at its liveliest.
Day three: Use Grozny as a base for the wider republic. Gudermes, Chechnya's second city, is a short trip away, and Khasavyurt lies beyond it. If you are continuing your journey, buses run to Rostov-on-Don, Astrakhan and Gudermes, and Grozny Airport has flights to Vnukovo and Domodedovo in Moscow and to Bishkek Airport in Kyrgyzstan. Allow time to get back to the airport before your departure.