Subotica travel guide

Subotica, Serbia

By the Travel Wiki editorial team

Subotica

Introduction

Subotica sits in Central Europe, in the autonomous province of Vojvodina in northern Serbia, where it serves as the administrative centre of the North Bačka District. It is the second largest city in Vojvodina after Novi Sad, and it lies in the Serbian part of the Bačka geographical region.

Before you go

Subotica grew wealthy and influential in the early 20th century, when most of its monumental buildings went up, and its multicultural character has endured: the city is roughly a third Hungarian, a third Serbian and a third Croatian, with a culture to match. Growth stalled once it became a border city, so it remains modest in size and free of the congestion and concrete-jungle feel of larger places, while still offering a disproportionate amount of beauty and a relaxed atmosphere.

Two languages are in everyday use: Serbo-Croatian, which nearly everyone speaks, and Hungarian, spoken natively by the ethnic Hungarian community and understood by many others to varying degrees. Among global languages, younger people generally speak at least some English, often fluently; with middle-aged people English is still your best bet, though don't expect fluency; and with older generations German is more useful.

Getting there

Subotica has no intercity airport of its own, so most travellers arrive overland. The nearest airports are in Belgrade, Budapest and Timișoara; the last is closer than the other two but involves a longer drive, so it is the least convenient option.

The city sits on the main rail line linking Belgrade, Novi Sad and Budapest, with frequent services, and regional trains also run from Szeged across the border in Hungary; check timetables with Serbian Railways. The railway station is in the city centre. Buses connect Subotica with nearby larger cities including Novi Sad, Belgrade, Budapest, Zagreb, Szeged and Sombor; they tend to cost more than local trains but are often faster, and online timetables are available. The bus station is on Senćanski put. If you prefer to drive, the A1 motorway (E75) passes through the city limits.

Getting around

Most of Subotica's important sights sit within walking distance of one another, and strolling the centre is the best way to appreciate its architecture and atmosphere. The compact core rewards a slow wander rather than a rushed itinerary, so base yourself centrally if you plan to cover the sights on foot.

Where to stay

Subotica has a small but varied choice of places to sleep, from a budget hostel to a handful of comfortable mid-range guesthouses and a few larger hotels at the top end. If you are watching your spending, a hostel with clean modern private rooms sits behind the Segedenski station, behind the Economics Faculty at number 14; the tourist information office can supply maps and directions. Guesthouse Denis on Aksentija Marodica is another budget option, while Konak Ljutovo lies about 20 km from the city in the village of Ljutovo.

For a step up, the mid-range places cluster around the centre and its outskirts. Gat on Gundulićeva has wifi and a rooftop patio, Aleksander A on Segedinski put serves a continental breakfast, and Mali Hotel on Harambašićeva is a good pick if you like parquet floors and reliable wifi. Vila Inn on Aleja Maršala Tita is comfortable but fairly nondescript. At the top end, Vila Royal Crown on Somborski put and Hotel Galleria on Matije Korvina are larger hotels, Hotel Patria on Đure Đakovića has a restaurant serving breakfast and a gym to run it off, and Hotel Vila Majur sits about 20 km away near the Hungarian border.

Food & drink

Local dishes are worth seeking out: they are done really well and are inexpensive. The region's signature fast food is burek, a pastry with fillings such as cheese, mince or mushroom. Most bakeries sell it, and there are specialised shops where it is made in front of you; order it with tekući jogurt, a liquid savoury yogurt, to go with it. Other domestic fast foods include pljeskavica, a kind of Serbian hamburger, and palačinke, European pancakes or crêpes folded into wide rectangles and filled either savourily (chicken, vegetables and sour cream, or minced meat with cream and bolognese sauce) or sweetly (Nutella, whipped cream, cookie crumbs). Both come as to-go versions and as restaurant dishes.

Also seek out ćevapi, small skinless sausages served in a flat bread called lepinja. Grilled and barbecued meats are a local tradition done masterfully — look for places displaying the sign Roštilj. Don't leave without trying gulaš and paprikaš, Hungarian-influenced meat stews popular among locals. For a full-service meal with an upmarket ambiance and an international menu, head to the centre of town, where the pizza is excellent. To drink, the fruit-growing region means many households make rakija from local stone fruit, apples, pears and grapes — the best quality is the kind made for own consumption rather than for sale. Another speciality is Gorki List, a bitter herbal liqueur (knock-offs are called Pelinkovac, after the herb pelin); it aids digestion, so drink it before the meal. Traditional wineries near the city cater to wine drinkers.

What to see and do

Subotica's centre is dominated by its City Hall, a masterpiece of the Hungarian version of Art Nouveau built in 1912, which stands in place of a church or cathedral at the heart of Liberty Square (Trg slobode). Join a tour of the building to see the Council Hall and its stained glass windows, and climb to the observatory for a view over the town and its outskirts. The hall is flanked by a park with a fountain and a broad square where concerts and bazaars are held through the year; around it stand the People's Theatre with its six Corinthian columns, the neo-baroque Public Library with its Atlases carrying a balcony, and the Emperor Jovan Nenad Monument, with the ceramic Blue Fountain nearby. In the evening, pedestrian-only streets fill with people and the town hall is lit by spotlights, giving the centre a Mediterranean feel; the water-fountains and cafés are good spots for people watching. The city is rich in Art Nouveau architecture. The Synagogue, decorated with stylized tulips, carnations and peacock feathers, is one of the finest surviving pieces of religious architecture in the style in Europe. The Raichle Palace, built as a home and design studio, now hosts the Modern Art Gallery Likovni susret, while the Dömötör Palace houses the Municipal Museum, with archaeological, ethnographic, historical, art and natural collections. Look for the symbols on the facade of the Former Subotica Savings Bank on Korzo — a squirrel for diligence, a beehive for thrift, an owl for wisdom — and the two birds on the Dömötör Palace. On the Square of the Victims of Fascism, the late-baroque Cathedral is dedicated to St. Theresa of Avila, and the square holds the city's largest monument, a rest area with a small fountain and the Hands sculpture, and the Lifka Art Cinema and Kosztolány Dezső Theatre. Several other galleries are worth a look, and the Straw Art Gallery in Donji Tavankut, outside the city, displays a naive folk art fostered in the region.

Three days in Subotica

Day one begins in the heart of Subotica, the city at the centre of Vojvodina in Serbia's North Bačka District. Wander past the Town Hall and take in the Central European character of the streets, where Serbian, Hungarian and Croatian influences sit side by side. As you explore, you'll notice that English and German are among the languages you may hear alongside Serbian. In the evening, settle into a meal that reflects the region's Bačka traditions.

Day two looks outward. Subotica sits within easy reach of Novi Sad, Belgrade, Budapest, Timișoara and Szeged, so you can plan a day trip by Serbian Railways or by bus. Buses also connect the city with Zagreb and Sombor. If you prefer to stay local, a taxi from the stand is a simple way to get around, and fares are best confirmed with the driver before you set off.

Day three turns to the countryside around Subotica. Head toward Lake Pali, where the small settlement of Pali sits by the water, and take your time along the shore. Hotel Patria is a familiar landmark in the area if you need a reference point. Back in the city, spend your last hours walking the centre once more, enjoying the unhurried pace of this part of Vojvodina before you move on.

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