Zemun

Introduction

Zemun is a municipality of Belgrade, Serbia, sitting on the right bank of the Danube upstream from the downtown core and north of the Sava. It was a separate town until it was absorbed into Belgrade in 1934, and the later growth of New Belgrade expanded the continuous urban area until the two were merged.

Getting around

Zemun is part of Belgrade's integrated public transport network of buses, trams, trolleybuses and the BG Voz urban rail, but for the historic core you will do most of your moving on foot. The old town's neighbourhoods — Donji Grad, Gardoš, Ćukovac and Gornji Grad — sit close together, with Glavna Street, the market, the churches, the squares and the Danube promenade all within walking distance of each other. The one thing to plan for is terrain: Gardoš sits on a hill, so even if you ride part of the way, expect an ascent on foot to reach the tower and the surrounding streets. Comfortable shoes are worthwhile. Belgrade has no metro, and Zemun railway station is not near the historic centre, the market, Gardoš or the central quay, so BG Voz will usually leave you with a further journey if the old town is your goal.

Buses are the workhorse for reaching Zemun from elsewhere in Belgrade. Routes 15 and 84 both run from Zeleni Venac, a central Belgrade interchange, into central Zemun — alight there rather than riding to the terminus. Bus 15 is useful for City Park, the Kontumac chapels, Avijatičarski Trg and the southern part of the historic centre; bus 84 serves Glavna Street, Zemun Market and the lower approach to Gardoš. If you are starting from Republic Square, Knez Mihailova or Terazije, walk downhill to Zeleni Venac and pick up either route there, checking both the platform and the direction before boarding, since it is a multi-platform interchange. From New Belgrade, take a direct bus, taxi or bicycle rather than returning to the old centre. Lines 704, 706 and 707 were moved from Zeleni Venac to New Belgrade's Block 20, so they are not recommended as first-time routes. Taxis and ride-hailing apps such as Yandex and Pink Taxi fill the gaps for luggage, groups, bad weather, limited mobility, late travel or a precise address, and can get you closer to the top of Gardoš; avoid unmarked vehicles, and treat any quoted fare as variable rather than fixed. According to the Tourism Organisation of Belgrade, city public transport has been free since 1 January 2025, so no ticket is required at present — but because this is a recent change, verify it before you travel. Be precise with destinations: Zemunska pijaca or Masarikov Trg for the market, Glavna, Magistratski Trg or Avijatičarski Trg for the historic centre, Gradski park for City Park, Kula Gardoš for the tower, Nikolajevska crkva for the church, and Kej Oslobođenja for the promenade.

Three days in Zemun

Day one: Start in Zemun's old core, where the town splits into Donji Grad along the river and Gornji Grad on the slope above. Walk Glavna Street, the main spine, and let it lead you to Masarikov Trg and Magistratski Trg, the squares at the heart of the old town. From there, climb toward Gardo, the hilltop quarter, for views across the Danube. Come down to the riverside and follow the Danube bank, where the atmosphere is relaxed and the water is always in sight.

Day two: Cross into Belgrade proper. Buses and BG Voz connect Zemun with the city, and routes run via Zeleni Venac, so you can reach Republic Square, Knez Mihailova and Terazije without much trouble. From New Belgrade, lines serve the blocks across the Sava. If you prefer, taxis are available, including Yandex and Pink Taxi. Spend the day in the centre, then return to Zemun for the evening.

Day three: Stay local. Browse Zemun Market, then walk to Avijatičarski Trg and on to City Park. Stop at Kontumac, the riverside strip on the Danube, where the pace is slow and the setting is green and open. In winter it can be bitterly cold, and in summer warm and humid, so plan your walking accordingly. According to the Tourism Organisation, January is a quiet month to be here. End with a stroll along Zemunska and Glavna, taking in the old streets one last time.