Belgrade
Introduction
You will find Belgrade situated at a significant geographic crossroads where the Pannonian Plain meets the Balkan Peninsula. Located at the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers, this capital serves as a major city within Southeast Europe.
Before you go
Prepare for your visit by noting that while Serbia is not part of the EU or Schengen area, you will find a welcoming atmosphere where English and German are widely understood and your bank cards are accepted. The city's history is layered with influences from the Slavs, the Ottoman Empire, and the Austro-Hungarian Empire, creating a vibrant blend of culture. Most points of interest are located within 2 km of the Kalmegdan citadel. While the modern business district of Novi Beograd offers shopping and entertainment, the area known as Kotež to the north is an urban sprawl.
Dress according to the forecast for a temperate continental climate featuring hot rainy summers and cold snowy winters; be especially mindful of the Košava, a fierce summer wind. To stay safe in crowded areas or on public transport, keep your belongings secure and avoid wearing bags on your back. If you are traveling as part of the LGBTQ community, exercise discretion regarding public displays of affection to avoid potential verbal abuse or physical violence. In an emergency, you can contact the police at 192, fire services at 193, or ambulance services at 194.
Getting there
Most travelers reach the city via Nikola Tesla Airport, located west of the city center. You can fly in on flights from various Balkan cities and beyond with carriers like Air Serbia or Lufthansa; budget options are available through Wizz. Upon arrival, you will pass through a single terminal featuring currency exchange kiosks that offer favorable rates. To reach your destination from the airport, you can choose between several transit options: a free bus service to Novi Beograd and Zeleni Venac, a dedicated minibus to Slavija Square that operates at night, or a taxi. For the safest taxi experience, use a mobile app or book via phone; alternatively, you can use a vending machine for a fixed-price slip, but avoid taking taxis from drivers waiting at the arrivals area.
If traveling by land, buses are currently the primary overland option from Western Europe, with routes connecting to cities like Budapest, Sarajevo, and Sofia. While some coaches travel along motorways, others wind through smaller towns. If you prefer rail, trains from Novi Sad and Subotica provide regular connections, while a sleeper train from the Montenegrin coast offers a scenic route through the mountains. For those traveling by car, the city is accessible via major highways including the E-75 and E-70. Cyclists can also reach the city via Eurovelo 6, which traverses the Serbian landscape connecting Budapest to the east.
Getting around
You can navigate the city using a variety of public transport options, including buses, trams, and trolleybuses, which are free to use. Buses serve as the primary mode of transport, reaching nearly every area; however, be aware that some lines become very crowded during peak hours. Trams run along 11 routes, with some featuring modern designs while others retain a vintage appearance. Trolleybuses operate along two main corridors. While local transit is free, suburban trains and express bus lines marked with an "E" require payment. For real-time tracking and timetables, you can use the Beograd +plus app.
When opting for a taxi, it is best to book through a mobile app like Car:Go, Pink Taxi, or Yandex Taxi to ensure your route is recorded and the fare is calculated automatically. Only use taxis with a roof sign featuring the city coat of arms and a number to ensure they are regulated by the city. If you choose to drive yourself, be mindful that parking in the city center is difficult and often requires using a designated garage. You must keep your low beam headlights on at all times and adhere to local speed limits, while taking extra care on major roads like Bulevar Mihaila Pupina and Jurija Gagarina.
Where to stay
You can choose from a wide variety of accommodations depending on your preferred atmosphere. For those seeking a social vibe or budget-friendly options, several hostels are available in the heart of the city and its outskirts. You might find a cozy spot near Republic Square, a clean space by the cathedral, or a social environment in the Kosančićev Venac neighborhood. If you prefer a unique experience on the water, look for floating hostels along the Danube in Novi Beograd, some of which feature on-board cafes and saunas.
For more traditional stays, several hotels offer central locations with varying amenities:
- Budget options include a Neo-Renaissance building near the bus station, a basic stay near Brankov Bridge, or a hotel featuring a rooftop restaurant.
- Mid-range selections provide comfortable rooms in the city center, including historic buildings and modern business-style hotels.
- Upscale choices offer boutique experiences in central spots, stylish rooms in landmark buildings with attentive staff, or large, modern facilities on the west bank of the river for those seeking more space and amenities.
Food & drink
Experience a variety of dining options in Belgrade, ranging from traditional Serbian kafanas to international cuisine and vegan cafés. Serbian cuisine is known for being hearty and meat-heavy; look for grilled favorites like ćevapi and pljeskavica, or classic dishes such as karađorđeva šnicla, sarma (stuffed cabbage), podvarak, and gulaš. These are often served with fresh bread, seasonal salads, and spreads like kajmak and ajvar. If you prefer a lighter start or a quick bite, bakeries provide reliable options for burek—a flaky pastry filled with meat, cheese, spinach, or potato—traditionally enjoyed with drinkable yoghurt. For those with a sweet tooth, local pastry shops offer treats like krempita, šampita, baklava, tulumbe, and urmašice.
The city's location at the confluence of the Danube and Sava rivers has fostered a long tradition of freshwater fish. You can find fish soup (riblja čorba), fish stew, and grilled carp or catfish at riverside restaurants and floating "splavovi," particularly in Zemun, New Belgrade, and near Ada Ciganlija. In the Skadarlija neighborhood, traditional kafanas offer a unique atmosphere where you can enjoy local dishes accompanied by live folk or tamburica music. For your beverages, the tap water is safe to drink, and the city offers a variety of domestic beers and Balkan wines. The national drink is rakija brandy, with plum, grape, walnut, quince, and pear being common varieties. When enjoying these drinks with others, remember to toast by looking your companions in the eye while clinking glasses and saying "Živeli!"
What to see and do
Explore the historic core of Stari Grad, where you can wander through Kalemegdan, a fortress and park situated on a bluff overlooking the confluence of the Danube and Sava. Within this site, visit the military museum, several churches—including the 15th-century Ružica church with its unique chandelier made of bullet shells—and the Belgrade Zoo. Nearby, you can find the neoclassical Cathedral Church of St Michael the Archangel and the Museum of the Serbian Orthodox Church. Other local landmarks include the Residence of Princess Ljubica, which showcases 19th-century architecture, and the Museum of Applied Art. Walk along Kneza Mihaila, a pedestrian street lined with elegant buildings housing the Zepter Museum and Heritage House. Further south, you can visit the Ethnographic Museum to see traditional Serbian costumes or the Vuk & Dositej Museum to learn about the development of the Serbian language.
In the Dorćol neighborhood, you can visit the Bajrakli Mosque, a historic site with a unique history of being restored after various conflicts. Nearby, the Chocolate Museum offers an interactive experience where you can make your own treats. Continue toward Republic Square to see the equestrian statue of Prince Mihailo Obrenović and explore the National Museum or the nearby Sukat Shalom Synagogue. Moving into Mid-town along Terazije, you will find a variety of cultural sites including the Museum of Illusions, the Ivo Andric Museum located behind the New Palace, and the Historical Museum of Serbia. You can also visit St Mark's Church to see its Serbo-Byzantine architecture or explore the Nikola Tesla Museum to learn about his contributions to electrical engineering.
When to go
You can experience four distinct seasons in Belgrade, each offering a different atmosphere. During the winter months, you will encounter sustained cold and snow. As the year progresses into spring, the weather warms up, though this is the wettest period of the year when thunderstorms and hail become more common. Summer brings warm conditions with frequent thunderstorms, while autumn sees temperatures cooling and thunderstorm activity diminishing as the city transitions toward winter.
Three days in Belgrade
Day one, you can begin your journey in Belgrade by exploring the historic heart of the city. You might wander through the streets to experience the local atmosphere and culture that defines this capital on the Balkan Peninsula.
Day two, you can head toward Novi Beograd to see how the city expands along the water. You can take in the views where the Sava and Danube rivers meet, reflecting the diverse influences of the region's history.
Day three, you can spend your final day exploring local landmarks such as Slavija Square or the area around Zeleni Venac to soak up the local character before your departure from the city.