Cluj-Napoca

Introduction

Cluj-Napoca, usually called simply Cluj, sits in northwestern Romania in the valley of the Someșul Mic river. It is the seat of Cluj County and is regarded as the unofficial capital of the historical province of Transylvania. Its position is roughly equidistant from Bucharest, Budapest and Belgrade, which makes it a natural base for exploring the wider region.

For some decades before the Austro-Hungarian Compromise of 1867, the city served as the official capital of the Grand Principality of Transylvania, and that history still shapes its character today.

Before you go

Cluj-Napoca has a layered past, and knowing a little of it will change how you read the city. Neolithic settlers, Romans, Saxons and Hungarians have all left their mark here: the archaeological remains of Roman Napoca sit in Unirii Square, the Saxon wall still stands, and the city carries the German name Klausenburg and the Hungarian name Kolozsvár alongside its Romanian one. Many locals still call it simply Cluj, since the "Napoca" ending was added in 1974. That mix explains why the architecture can feel unexpectedly German - local architects trained in Vienna during the Austro-Hungarian period - while communist-era buildings sit just outside the centre.

Romanian is the official language, a Romance language, and most educated people speak reasonably good English and often another Romance language; Hungarian is also common thanks to the city's Hungarian minority, and the Roma speak Romany as well as Romanian. Cluj-Napoca is generally safe, including after dark in the centre and some other neighbourhoods, but it is wise to avoid the suburbs at night unless you know exactly where you are going - particularly Manastur, Marasti and Iris, and the train and inter-city bus station areas. Keep an eye on your belongings; if your wallet goes missing it may turn up again, minus the cash and cards, so contact your credit card company as soon as you notice. As elsewhere in the European Union, police, ambulance and fire services are reachable on 112.

Getting there

Cluj-Napoca is easy to reach thanks to its position as a major Transylvanian city and an important Romanian railway hub. The train is often the simplest option: the main station, Gara Cluj-Napoca on Piața Gării, is served by daily trains to Bucharest and to Budapest via Oradea, along with fast InterCity connections to Oradea, Arad, Timisoara, Brasov, Sighisoara, Ploiesti and Bucharest, and links to most Romanian and Transylvanian cities. Note that Romania has three kinds of trains, and on a few routes, such as to and from Oradea and Târgu Mureș, private operators like Transferoviar grup sell cheaper tickets. Buses are another option, arriving at the main bus station, Autogară Cluj-Napoca, from Bucharest, major Romanian cities, most Transylvanian cities and a number of major European cities; an on-demand bus also runs from Budapest with Eurobusways.

By air, Cluj Avram Iancu International Airport has flights from a long list of European cities, including Bucharest, Budapest, London, Munich, Rome, Milan-Bergamo, Paris-Beauvais, Madrid, Barcelona, Dublin, Istanbul, Tel Aviv, Warsaw and Zurich, among others. From the airport you can take public bus lines 5 and 8, or the newer Airport Express Line A1E, which stops in front of the airport and runs to Mihai Viteazu Square. WizzAir runs a shuttle bus to the centre, taxis are abundant, and apps like Uber and Bolt are worth using; several international and local car rental offices are also at the airport. Alternatively, you can fly to Budapest Franz Liszt International Airport and take a shuttle to Cluj-Napoca, a trip of several hours that requires advance reservation and a buffer of at least two hours between your flight arrival and the shuttle's departure.

Getting around

Public transport in Cluj-Napoca is run by CTP Cluj-Napoca, historically known as RATUC, and combines buses, trams and trolleybuses. Buses are the most extensive mode and reach the whole city, including the airport, with service generally frequent from early morning until late evening; trams are less frequent, though many have been modernised and some newer vehicles offer free Wi-Fi. Union Square (Piața Unirii) acts as a central hub for many routes, and digital screens at major stops display estimated arrival times. For most lines serving the city centre you won't need to wait more than about fifteen minutes. Night buses run on some routes, but less frequently, and during the school year buses can become crowded with delays common, especially in rain. Buy tickets from purple machines at most bus and tram stops, paying by cash or card, via the Tranzy app, or by SMS (slightly more expensive and generally requiring a Romanian SIM); contactless Visa or Mastercard payment is accepted on board many vehicles. Rechargeable travel cards are sold at kiosks at major stops and can be loaded with multiple trips or with daily and weekly passes, and booths are identifiable by the RATUC logo and possibly the text "Bilete si Abonamente". Single tickets are sometimes available from the driver at a slightly higher price, and on some services you cannot buy from the driver at all, so it's safest to buy ahead at a machine, kiosk or via the app. Always validate your ticket or tap your card when boarding, as inspectors are active and fines are significant, and note that ticket machines are sometimes out of service, so it's worth having the app or SMS as a backup. A route planner is available online, and the Tranzy app, available in English for iOS and Android, is what locals use for real-time vehicle locations, door-to-door route planning and saved favourite stops. Transport in the Cluj-Napoca metropolitan area is covered by many private bus companies, providing daily connections to neighbouring towns and villages.

Taxis are widely available and convenient, clustering around important locations such as the train station, the airport, Unirii Square, Mihai Viteazu Square and in front of the Opera, usually no more than about a kilometre apart. They are relatively more expensive than in other parts of Romania but still cheap by international standards, and all respectable companies charge roughly the same rate. Payment is normally in cash, and paying by card is generally not possible; it is customary, though not mandatory, to round the fare up to the nearest small change as a tip, but if a driver tries to keep too much, do ask for your change. Cabs come in all shapes and colours and are identified by the company logo on the roof sign and somewhere on the car body. Reputable companies include Nova Taxi, Diesel Rapid, Diesel Taxi, Atlas, Pritax, Pro Rapid, Terra Fan and Clima&Confort, and at taxi ranks you should take the first taxi in the row. Be alert to unofficial "shark" drivers who target visitors, especially around the train station and the airport: they may offer you a ride themselves, charge several times the normal fare, and their cars are often marked simply "TAXI" with no company name. Look for the company name on the door, note that respectable firms typically have several cars parked at each stand, and avoid Activ Taxi cars. Cabs can also be phoned in, giving a name and waiting for the car number to be relayed to you, with cars arriving within minutes. You may occasionally be driven a longer route if you don't know the city, even by respectable firms, so the best defence is to appear confident and state your destination unhesitantly. Uber and Bolt both operate in the city and are widely used, often cheaper for short distances and particularly useful late at night or with luggage, with payment by cash, credit card or Google Pay and no tipping required; expect surge pricing during major events such as the UNTOLD and Electric Castle festivals.

The city centre is compact and highly walkable, with many attractions concentrated in a small area, though the Old Town's cobblestone streets can be uneven, so comfortable shoes are a good idea. A classic walking route runs from Union Square, home to St. Michael's Church, to Avram Iancu Square, where you'll find the National Theatre and the Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral, while Strada Memorandumului and Bulevardul Eroilor are pedestrian-friendly streets lined with cafes and shops. For panoramic views, head up to Cetățuia Park, a climb involving gentle hills. Cycling is also an option: bike lanes exist, and ClujBike is the city's public bike-sharing system, which requires registration online or via an app and a credit card, and rental bikes are also available. Several international and local car rental companies operate at the airport and in the city centre, including Avis, Napoca Rent a Car, 321 Rent a Car and TopCarRentals, but a car is unnecessary if you're staying within Cluj, since central parking is difficult and expensive and driving can be challenging at peak hours; it is best suited to day trips beyond the city, such as to the Turda Salt Mine, the Apuseni Mountains or villages like Rimetea. Non-EU/EEA licence holders may need an international driving permit, and Romanian traffic laws are strict on speed limits and alcohol. From Cluj Avram Iancu International Airport (CLJ), east of the centre, public bus lines 5 and 8 run from early morning until around midnight — exit the airport, turn right at the main street and walk to the next bus stop, where there is a ticket machine, and remember to stamp your ticket on board, as you are not allowed to buy tickets from the driver. The Airport Express (A1E) stops directly in front of the airport and runs to Mihai Viteazu Square in the centre, with tickets bought inside the bus at the POS using a credit or debit card, and on the way into the city it stops only on request using the stop button inside the vehicle. WizzAir offers a shuttle bus to the centre, taxis are abundant at the terminal but probably only worth it if you are several people or have a lot of luggage, Bolt also serves the airport, and several car rental offices have desks inside the terminal. An alternative for some travellers is to fly to Budapest Franz Liszt International Airport and take a shuttle on to Cluj-Napoca, a trip of several hours with shuttles running from early morning until late at night and reservations required in advance, leaving at least two hours between flight arrival and shuttle departure to allow for delays. Carry some cash for small purchases and taxis, though cards are widely accepted; peak traffic is in the mornings and late afternoons, when public transport is crowded, and accessibility varies, as older trams and buses may pose challenges, so check specific routes and vehicle types. Offline maps and Google Maps are useful for navigation, Union Square is a handy landmark for orientation, and it's worth allowing ample time for airport journeys or appointments, especially in peak traffic.

Where to stay

Cluj's lodging scene has expanded in recent years, and you'll find options across every budget, from hostels and pensions to a five-star hotel. If you want to be in the middle of things, the city center is the obvious base: Agape sits a few minutes' walk from the statue of Matthias Corvinus, the Onix occupies a central spot with rooms and suites that include jacuzzis and air-con, and Transylvania Hostel on Str Iuliu Maniu offers a comfortable, sociable stay with a lounge, game room, guest kitchen and outdoor terrace. The DoubleTree by Hilton on Sindicatelor Street and the Golden Tulip Ana Done are other central choices at the upper end.

For a quieter setting still close to the center, look to Atrium Hotel Boutique on Septimiu Albini, which has its own restaurant plus the Ciuleandra Romanian-food restaurant, or Hotel Belvedere on Fortress hill, where facilities include a pool, gym and conference rooms along with a nice view. Mid-range options also include Fullton, Deja Vu Pension, Olimp, Victoria and Villa-Hotel Escala, the last with a gym and pool. Budget travellers can consider Cluj Pension, Mioval Pension, which offers non-stop B&B accommodation, Retro Youth Hostel, Meteor near the commercial center, or Hotel Transilvania. Further out, West City Hotel in Floreşti is the city's first design hotel, and Sunny Hill Hotel and Premier are among the other splurge choices.

Food & drink

Cluj dining is among the best in Romania, and the range reflects the city's mixed heritage: traditional Romanian, Hungarian and Transylvanian cooking, plus Italian, Chinese, Japanese, Mexican, Middle Eastern, American and international kitchens. You'll find fancy restaurants alongside local fast food shops and a few international chains.

• For cheap, central eating, try Vărzărie, one of the few restaurants Cluj had during communist times, still serving simple Transylvanian food in something of the old atmosphere — varză à la Cluj is the local specialty to order. Hotelul Agapé is a cafeteria-style spot with good Hungarian and Romanian food, Double on Strada George Barițiu is known for shaorma and extraordinary soups, Broaster Chicken on Strada Napoca does excellent fried chicken, and Cartofisserie in Piața Unirii is the place for French fries with a long list of dips.
• Mid-range options include Fair Play, well known for its tripe soup; Klausen Burger, a restaurant and brewery with a view; Roata, where you can try typical Romanian dishes; and Zama, a modern restaurant serving traditional Transylvanian cuisine. Samsara Foodhouse covers vegetarian, vegan and raw vegan food, Shanghai has one of the most varied selections of Chinese dishes, and Indigo serves very good Indian food. For a view, head to Aroma on the Feleacu hill or Panoramic on the Cetatuia. Maimuța Plângătoare serves traditional Romanian and Hungarian food, and Marco Polo does Japanese.
• At the top end, Baracca serves Mediterranean food with French influence and changes its menu every six months with a chef from France; Tokyo is Japanese, and Via occupies a wonderfully restored old house.
• Cluj has a vibrant nightlife, with bars, cafés and clubs for all preferences and budgets. Options range from Bulgakov, which serves nice Hungarian food, and the steampunk-styled Enigma with its green indoor terrace, to Diesel on Piața Unirii, a cosmopolitan club with events on three floors. Flying Circus Club is mostly rock and shows a movie on the nights it opens, Insomnia has bohemian, ever-changing decor and serves light meals, and L'Atelier is a relaxed café-bar furnished from cardboard and scrap. La Țevi is a heavy metal bar, Old Shepherd is an Irish-style bar, The Soviet has a nice cocktail menu, and Zorki Photo Cafe mixes jazz and alternative rock with regular photo exhibitions and occasional acoustic concerts, with Zorki Off the Record in the basement below. Samsara Chill-Out & Tea House serves teas and wines in a relaxing atmosphere across three differently styled rooms, and gets busy in the evening.

What to see and do

Start in Union Square, the heart of the old city, where you'll find St. Michael's Church, the National Art Museum, the Statue of Matthias Corvinus and Roman ruins. The surrounding area holds the Teleki and Bánffy Palaces, the Franciscan Monastery, the first Unitarian Church in the world, the Piarist Church and the Mirror Street (Iuliu Maniu Street), a late-1800s architectural set piece. Matthias Corvinus' birthplace, a 15th-century building now home to the Visual Arts Academy, is here too, and the smaller streets off the square open into inner courts, old houses and isolated churches.

A short walk away, Museum Square is home to the Franciscan Monastery, the Transylvanian History Museum and the old Obelisk, with outdoor café seating around it during the day. Eroilor Avenue links Union Square with Avram Iancu Square. Among the churches, don't miss St. Michael's, whose murals date from the 15th century and whose neo-Gothic tower rises 50 m, the Reformed Church, the Franciscan Church, Calvaria Church, the Bob Church, the Piarist Church and the Cock Church. For museums, choose from the National Art Museum, the National Museum of Transylvanian History, the Ethnographic Museum of Transylvania, the Pharmaceutical Museum in the Hintz House, the Zoology Museum and Steampunk Transylvania. Galleries include Galeria Arte, Galeria Horeb and IAGA.

For open air, head to the Central Park, with its small lake, the Chios Casino and rowboats and hydrobicycles for circling the island, or climb Fortress Hill by the stairs from the centre, passing a large iron cross monument on the way; a walkway circles the hilltop below the hotel. The Botanical Garden and the "Romulus Vuia" Ethnographic Park, which displays village buildings from the 18th and 19th centuries, are further options. Notable buildings include the Tailors' Bastion and its stretch of medieval wall, the Matthias Corvinus House, the Palace of Justice, Babeş-Bolyai University, the Old Casino, the City Hall, the Bánffy Palace, Cetățuia Fortress and the Neolog Synagogue.

In the evening, the Lucian Blaga National Theatre and the Romanian National Opera share a building, as do the Hungarian State Theater and the Hungarian Opera. You can also catch the PUCK Puppet Theatre, Tranzit House in a converted synagogue, or the Reactor Independent Theatre. For sport, watch football at CFR Cluj, whose ground lies southwest of the railway station.

When to go

Cluj-Napoca has a warm-summer humid continental climate, so what you pack depends heavily on the season. Winters are cold and snowy, with temperatures often below freezing and snow covering the ground for long stretches; West-Atlantic influences can occasionally bring milder spells, but you should expect a cold, snowy visit with the city at its quietest. Spring swings between chilly and mild days with frequent but light rain, and the weather is changeable enough that you should pack for both.

Summer is the warmest and liveliest time to visit, though mid-summer heat in the city centre can be intense and the season brings infrequent yet heavy, often violent storms. Autumn temperatures vary widely and rain is more frequent than in spring, though milder, with West-Atlantic influences present as the season gradually turns colder toward winter.

Three days in Cluj-Napoca

Day one: Start in Unirii Square, the heart of Cluj, and trace the layers of the city from Roman Napoca through the Saxon and Hungarian periods to the Romanian present. The square and its surroundings reward slow wandering rather than a checklist, so give yourself time to notice how Klausenburg, Kolozsvár and Cluj-Napoca all sit in the same place. In the evening, eat in the centre and get a feel for the city's student energy.

Day two: Head out to the residential districts to see how most people actually live. Manastur, Marasti and Iris each have their own character, and moving between them shows you a Cluj beyond the historic core. The Someșul Mic runs through the city, and following it gives you a natural route. If you want a longer view, the surrounding Cluj County and Transylvania countryside are within easy reach.

Day three: Use the day to fill in the gaps. Cluj has a Roma and Romany presence alongside its Romanian, Hungarian and German heritage, and the city's museums and markets reflect that mix. You can also plan onward travel: Bucharest, Budapest and Belgrade are all connected to Cluj, and the city's position in the European Union makes it a practical base for the region. Keep the pace easy and let the city's many layers settle.