East Jerusalem
Introduction
East Jerusalem is the portion of Jerusalem that lies east of the Green Line, established formally by the armistice agreements at the end of the 1948 Palestine war. It is considered by the United Nations and other intergovernmental organizations to be part of the Palestinian territories and, under international law, its capital, while it is regarded by those bodies as under illegal occupation by Israel.
Many states recognize East Jerusalem as the capital of the State of Palestine; others see it as the future capital of Palestine while referring to it as an occupied territory. As a traveller, you should be aware that this status is contested and that conditions on the ground reflect the political situation.
Before you go
East Jerusalem is the location of the ancient city, which began in the area now called the City of David, just south of the Old City walls built by the Ottoman Turks. The division between East and West Jerusalem dates from the 1948 war, when the western neighbourhoods fell under Jewish control while the Old City and eastern neighbourhoods were under Arab control. Israel captured and annexed East Jerusalem in 1967, and the city remains a major point of contention in Arab-Israeli relations: Palestinians claim it as their capital, and most foreign countries do not formally recognise it as part of Israel. There has been periodic violence between Arabs and Jews, including the 2015–2016 "Intifada of the Knives". Before you go, understand that Jews and Arabs live in separate neighbourhoods, and that an Arab walking in a Jewish neighbourhood or a Jew walking in an Arab neighbourhood may trigger hostility. Violence targeting tourists is rare, but tourists have been assaulted by Arabs after being mistaken for Jews at the Mount of Olives. Be aware of pickpockets, and be suspicious of any stranger trying to start a conversation or offer to sell you something, especially at the Mount of Olives. Some Arab neighbourhoods are seen as "no go zones" by Israeli Jews, who often avoid even driving through them; these include the Chapel of the Ascension, Bethphage and the Tomb of Lazarus. Jewish taxi drivers from West Jerusalem may hesitate or refuse to take you to these sites out of genuine fear for their own safety, so if you want to reach them by taxi, take an Arab taxi from outside the Damascus gate. The City of David, Mount Zion and Gethsemane are generally safe.Getting there
East Jerusalem has three central bus stations for Arab urban and intercity buses, all close to each other just north of the Old City. Listed from west to east, they are the HaNeviim station, with buses to Bethlehem, Hebron and the southern Arab neighbourhoods; the Nablus Road station, for Ramallah and the northern Arab neighbourhoods; and the Sultan Suleiman station, serving Bethany, Jericho and the eastern Arab neighbourhoods. The stations take their names from the streets they sit on, so if you are asking for directions it may be more useful to name your bus destination instead. Shared taxis to Ramallah, Bethlehem and Hebron also leave from here. From West Jerusalem, bus lines 1 and 3 leave the central bus station on Jaffa Street and circle the Old City, stopping near its gates and the major East Jerusalem sites in the vicinity; bus 84 leaves from the Ammunition Hill light rail stop and takes you to the top of the Mount of Olives. The light rail from West Jerusalem enters East Jerusalem and stops first at Damascus Gate beside the Old City, then turns north to parallel the boundary between East and West Jerusalem before continuing into further East Jerusalem neighbourhoods. Which stop you want depends on your plans: City Hall is the last stop in West Jerusalem and the closest to Mount Zion and the City of David; Damascus Gate station sits by the transport hub outside the gate and serves the Garden Tomb and the Rockefeller Archaeological Museum; Shivtei Israel is handy for the Tombs of the Kings and several hotels; and Ammunition Hill (Giv'at Hatahmoshet) serves the Ammunition Hill Memorial Site and bus 84 onward to the Mount of Olives. Most sights within East Jerusalem are close to the Old City, so you can explore them on foot.Getting around
Most of what you will want to see in East Jerusalem sits close to the Old City, and walking is the most practical way to reach it. Near the Old City the streets are limited and crowded, so on foot is genuinely your best option rather than a fallback. The Mount of Olives is the notable exception: it is quite steep, so consider a very short cab ride to the top and walk back down at your own pace, particularly in hot weather. Cabs are generally easy to flag down near the Old City.
- Light rail: Coming from West Jerusalem, it enters East Jerusalem and stops first at Damascus Gate, next to the Old City, then turns north and continues into further eastern neighbourhoods. Useful stops include City Hall (closest to Mount Zion and the City of David), Damascus Gate (for the Garden Tomb and the Rockefeller Archaeological Museum), Shivtei Israel (for the Tombs of the Kings), and Ammunition Hill (for the Ammunition Hill Memorial Site and bus 84 to the Mount of Olives).
- Buses: Three central stations for Arab urban and intercity buses sit close together just north of the Old City, named after the streets they are on: HaNeviim (Bethlehem, Hebron, southern Arab neighbourhoods), Nablus Road (Ramallah, northern Arab neighbourhoods), and Sultan Suleiman (Bethany, Jericho, eastern Arab neighbourhoods). From West Jerusalem, lines 1 and 3 leave the central bus station on Jaffa Street and circle the Old City. Bus 84 runs from the Ammunition Hill light rail stop to the top of the Mount of Olives.
- Taxis and shared taxis: Taxis suit short hops where walking is impractical. Shared taxis to Ramallah, Bethlehem, and Hebron leave from the area around the three central Arab bus stations.
Keep in mind that the Jewish and Arab bus networks are separate but overlapping, so check which one serves your destination. When asking for directions, it helps to name your bus destination rather than the station, since the stations take their names from their streets.
Where to stay
Most East Jerusalem hotels sit a short walk north of the Old City, putting you within easy reach of the Damascus Gate and the surrounding neighbourhoods.
- Budget: Palm Hostel, close to the Damascus Gate, is basic but fine for the price. Ramsis Hostel on Haneviim Street, outside the Damascus Gate, has no curfew, includes wireless internet, and occupies a historic building on the border between East and West Jerusalem, with West Jerusalem's bars a five-minute walk away.
- Mid-range: Capitol Hotel on Salah Eddin Street offers a large number of guest rooms. The family-run Mount of Olives Hotel sits at the summit of the Mount of Olives, next to the Chapel of Ascension and surrounded by churches and holy sites, with dramatic views of the Old City and the Dome of the Rock; reach it by bus from the Damascus Gate. Jerusalem Panorama on Ras el-Amud Street, near the Hill of Gethsemane, offers good service and facilities for the price, with air-conditioned rooms and children's facilities, though street-facing rooms can be noisy and public transport in the area is limited. Seven Arches, on the Mount of Olives near the Church of the Paternoster, is a large modern hotel on the summit with spectacular views. Tantur Hills Hotel lies along Road 60, just north of the checkpoint with Bethlehem. The Jerusalem Hotel is on Nablus Road.
- Splurge: The American Colony Hotel on Louis Vincent Street is a luxury, historic boutique property popular with visiting dignitaries and diplomats, with unique rooms and suites, an outdoor pool, spa treatments, a breakfast buffet, free internet and complimentary parking. Dan Jerusalem Hotel on Lehi Street is designed around central patios on the slopes of Mount Scopus, overlooking the city skyline and the hills of Judea. Leonardo Hotel on Saint George Street is a very short walk from the Old City, though it could use some refurbishment. Grand Court Jerusalem Hotel on Saint George Street has many rooms, including family rooms and some designed for handicapped guests.
Food & drink
For a sit-down meal, you can choose between hotel dining rooms and smaller neighbourhood restaurants. The Kan Zman Jerusalem Hotel on Nablus Road serves Middle Eastern specialities alongside pasta and salads, and the kitchen is not kosher. The American Colony Hotel on Louis Vincent Street offers French and Middle Eastern cuisine, and it's worth reserving a table in advance. For a more intimate setting, Shababeek Restaurant on Shimon Hatsidik Street in Sheikh Jarrah serves selected Mediterranean food in an old-style room. When you want to relax over a drink, head to Gossip, which pours good Palestinian beer and has a pleasant atmosphere. If you're in the mood for a smoke, its Gossip Special Argila is the thing to order.What to see and do
The Old City's historic core is compact but layered, and much of it rewards slow walking. On Mount Zion, just south of the Armenian Quarter, you can visit the Church of the Dormition, with its conical dome and bell tower, traditionally held to be the site of the Virgin Mary's death. Adjoining it is the chamber venerated as King David's Tomb, divided for separate viewing by men and women, and the Last Supper Room, traditionally identified as the site of the Cenacle. Opposite the tomb, the Chamber of the Holocaust displays artifacts, artwork and memorials maintained by the Diaspora Yeshiva. Down the hill from Zion Gate, a small Christian cemetery holds the grave of Oskar Schindler. To the east, St Peter in Gallicantu commemorates St Peter's denial of Christ, with ancient caves in its crypt and a wooden model of the Old City in the courtyard. South of the Temple Mount lies the City of David, the oldest inhabited part of Jerusalem, where you can see remains of buildings through the Babylonian conquest, early walls, and fortifications and palace fragments attributed to David. The site also takes in the Jerusalem water system: the Warren's Shaft, the Canaanite tunnel, and Hezekiah's Tunnel running from the Gihon Spring to the Pool of Siloam. You can walk through the wet tunnel, wading in thigh-deep water with a flashlight and proper shoes, or take the shorter, narrower dry tunnel. A metal staircase leads down to the "Large Stone Structure," and a building above houses a free film on Jewish history in the area, with a terrace offering views of Silwan and the ancient rock-cut tombs. In the valley between the Old City and the Mount of Olives stand the Tomb of Absalom, the Tomb of Zechariah and the Tomb of Bnei Hezir, all dating to the Hasmonean period. To explore the Mount of Olives, it is recommended to start from the top and work downward, since the climb up is steep; from the viewing point over the Old City, be aware that pickpockets are a real menace, so keep your valuables stowed and watch anyone coming close.Three days in East Jerusalem
Day one: Begin in East Jerusalem, the Palestinian side of the city divided from West Jerusalem by the Green Line. Walk into the Old City and let its quarters set the pace, passing between Arab and Jewish neighbourhoods where the everyday life of Palestinians and Israeli Jews unfolds side by side. Climb toward the Mount of Olives, where the Chapel of the Ascension, Bethphage and the Tomb of Lazarus sit among the slopes.
- East Jerusalem and the Green Line
- The Old City and its quarters
- The Mount of Olives, the Chapel of the Ascension, Bethphage and the Tomb of Lazarus
Day two: Stay with the Old City and its layers, from the Ottoman Turks onward, and take in the mix of Arab and Jewish life that has long defined Jerusalem. Expect the mood to shift with the times; periods of Intifada and violence, knives and tension, have marked the city, and some Arab and Israeli Jews keep their distance while others share the same streets. Let the day be slow and observant rather than packed.
- The Old City under the Ottoman Turks and after
- Arab and Jewish life in Jerusalem
- The city's history of Intifada and violence
Day three: Look outward from East Jerusalem toward Palestine and the wider region, and consider how the United Nations and the question of a State have shaped the city's story. Return to the Old City for a last walk, then cross back over the Green Line into West Jerusalem, carrying the contrast between the two halves with you.
- East Jerusalem, Palestine and the United Nations
- The question of a State
- West Jerusalem across the Green Line