Gaza
Before you go
Gaza is not a destination you can simply decide to visit. Entry is effectively limited to accredited journalists and UN or charity workers, and even then only after in-depth risk assessments. Do not rely on a travel guide for that assessment. Civilian infrastructure has been hit very hard, and your presence in the Strip would divert resources from people in need.
If you are considering travel here in any capacity, understand the context first. The Gaza Strip is a narrow coastal territory between the Mediterranean and the Negev desert, with Egypt to the south and Israel to the north and east. Its climate is temperate, with mild winters and dry, warm to hot summers. The standard language is Arabic; Hebrew is understood to some extent, but English is generally the safer option. A ceasefire is in place, but airstrikes continue, and Gaza is almost certainly the single most dangerous location to travel to. Bombings can happen anywhere at any time, including in the refugee camps. If you find yourself in danger, your government will not be able to offer any form of assistance.
Getting there
Getting into Gaza is difficult and, in most circumstances, unwise. Entry is controlled by Israeli authorities, and as of the early 2000s all would-be visitors had to apply in advance for permission to enter the Strip. Applications are normally submitted through your embassy in Israel and are supposed to take under a fortnight, though in practice they can take months. Unless you are a fully accredited journalist or an aid or human rights worker, you are unlikely to be granted permission to enter from Israel. Because of the Israel-Hamas war, entry from Egypt through the Rafah crossing is not possible.
Gaza has no functioning airport: the former Yasser Arafat International Airport was shut down and its runway destroyed in 2002. The nearest airports are El Arish in Egypt, which has no commercial flights, and Ben Gurion near Tel Aviv. The closest non-Israeli commercial airports are Queen Alia and King Hussein International in Jordan, while the closest Egyptian-controlled airport with non-charter commercial service is Cairo International; Taba International is nearer than Cairo but handles only charter flights. The main land crossing is Erez in the north, on the border with Israel, most easily reached by taxi or by Dan BaDarom bus #20 from Ashkelon. You will need a permit from the Israeli Army or a Government Press Office card, and if you hold a permit you must coordinate with the Israeli Army in advance, specifying when you plan to enter and leave; journalists with a GPO card can come and go as they please. Only vehicles with prior coordination, such as a handful of UN cars, may drive in, and only after a thorough search that can take months. At Erez you approach a soldier in a pillbox, may be asked to open your bags and whether you are carrying weapons, then wait outside an electronic gate before entering the terminal to hand over your passport and coordination and receive an Israeli exit stamp. Beyond the terminal lies a long concrete tunnel and a no-man's-land of at least a kilometre; porters, trolleys and tuk-tuks may be available, and if you take a tuk-tuk keep your hands inside. A taxi then takes you roughly another 800 m to the Palestinian checkpoint, where you are searched for prohibited goods — alcohol and non-halal food are banned by the Hamas government, and failing inspection can mean confiscation at best and arrest at worst. By boat there is no option: the port is non-operational, the waters are patrolled by the Israeli Navy, and vessels attempting to reach the shoreline are turned back.
Getting around
Getting around Gaza is not comparable to moving through an ordinary city. There is no rail, metro or tram network, no working bus network, no taxi fleet and no ride-hailing service, and rental car agencies are not functioning either. Because commercial fuel is entirely absent, movement relies on makeshift and non-motorized methods: residents and aid workers primarily get around by walking long distances, while donkey and horse carts have become the primary way of moving both people and essential supplies. Motorized travel is highly restricted and almost exclusively reserved for humanitarian aid convoys, emergency medical vehicles, and a limited number of local drivers who run modified diesel engines on recycled cooking oil. Even where a vehicle is available, streets heavily cratered by explosions and blocked by mounds of urban rubble make progress difficult.
Walking is the main way people move, but that does not make it easy or safe: long distances are common and routes may be damaged or blocked. Movement between governorates is unpredictable and frequently severed by active military operations, checkpoints and localized evacuation orders, so conditions change constantly. Thorough route planning and coordination with local authorities or international aid bodies is essential before attempting any journey, and every movement should be arranged in advance rather than improvised.
Where to stay
There is no tourist accommodation sector in Gaza. Standard lodging has been dismantled by widespread urban destruction and mass displacement, and the coastal properties that once hosted international journalists, diplomats, and aid workers — among them the Al Deira Hotel and the Al Mat'haf Hotel — are largely inaccessible, closed, or severely damaged. What shelter exists is humanitarian rather than hospitality: sprawling informal tent camps and makeshift plastic shelters that offer little protection from extreme weather and severe overcrowding. Aid organizations bring in emergency shelter kits, blankets, mattresses, and flat-pack Relief Housing Units, but strict border regulations and restrictions on importing building supplies such as timber, canvas, and nails leave a vast gap between what arrives and what is needed. Ongoing military activity and the chronic trauma of displacement make normal rest impossible for many.Food & drink
Traditional food in Gaza draws on classic Palestinian cooking, shaped by the coastal setting, local agriculture and wider Levantine flavours. Be aware, though, that ongoing conflict and blockades have left regular tourism and commercial dining options heavily restricted or non-existent, and that crisis-level acute food insecurity affects much of the population as high inflation has pushed essential commodities out of reach. Severe fuel shortages also make it difficult to run the surviving food processing facilities.
- Alcohol is no longer available, as it is forbidden under Islamic Law. If you do find any, do not go out under the influence; being caught with alcohol by Hamas authorities will likely mean confiscation and possibly detention, and bags are given a quick search on entry to Gaza.
- Clean drinking water is drastically limited after severe destruction of desalination plants and water wells, forcing most families to rely entirely on water trucks. Bring water purification tablets and a stove to boil water.
- Despite extreme power outages, some local street vendors use solar-powered cooling systems to keep beverages cold during the hot summer months.
- Crippling border restrictions have led to a rise in local soft drink options, though production fluctuates heavily because of shortages of raw materials such as carbon dioxide.
What to see and do
Traditional sightseeing, cultural tours and recreational activities in Gaza have been halted entirely. Landmark cultural venues, historic archaeological sites and public recreational spaces are inaccessible, closed or ruined, and the territory's archaeological heritage has suffered catastrophic damage that makes historical exploration impossible. Major institutions such as the Al-Basha Palace Museum, the ancient St. Porphyrius Church and the historic Great Omari Mosque have faced severe structural ruin. Public spaces that once offered recreation, including community parks, seaside cafes and cultural centres, are non-operational, with many repurposed as emergency shelters or left destroyed. The Mediterranean coastline, historically the primary social hub for swimming, fishing and walking along the beach cornice, is highly restricted and dangerous. Coastal pollution from damaged wastewater infrastructure and active military security zones have made the beaches unsafe for any form of leisure or relaxation. What public activity remains is tied to community survival and mutual aid rather than entertainment: local volunteers, youth groups and international organizations occasionally organize informal, small-scale recreational activities and psychological support circles inside displacement camps to help children cope with trauma.When to go
Gaza has a temperate climate, with mild winters and dry, warm to hot summers. Winter days are generally comfortable for being outdoors and visiting sites, though rain is possible during this season, so it is wise to pack some wet-weather gear.
Summers are dry and warm to hot, with little to no rainfall. Expect strong sun and heat, so plan outdoor activity for early or late in the day and carry water.
Three days in Gaza
Day one: Getting into Gaza is the first task, and it shapes everything that follows. Unless you are travelling with the UN or another recognised organisation, you will need to apply well in advance through the Israeli authorities, and applications are frequently refused or delayed. The practical routes run through Erez in the north, or via Rafah on the Egyptian border. If you fly, the nearest useful airports are El Arish, Cairo International, Taba International, Ben Gurion near Tel Aviv, Queen Alia in Jordan, or King Hussein International at Aqaba. Dan BaDarom and Ashkelon are the last stops before the crossing. Once inside the Strip, Arabic is the everyday language, with Hebrew and English also spoken.
Day two: Spend the day along the Mediterranean edge of Gaza, where the sea is the one constant in a crowded, often battered landscape. The Strip is small and hemmed in by Israel to the north and east, Egypt to the south, and the Negev beyond the eastern border. Yasser Arafat International Airport stands unusable, a reminder of how sealed the territory has become. Bombings have left their mark on civilian areas, so move with care and follow the advice of the UN and local contacts. Do not attempt to travel independently beyond areas you have cleared with your hosts.
Day three: Use your last day to understand the wider context before you leave. The Gaza Strip has been shaped by years of blockade, conflict and political division, with Hamas governing internally while Israel controls the crossings. Getting out can be as uncertain as getting in, whether you exit through Erez or Rafah. Because access is so restricted, plans should stay flexible and you should keep your documents ready at all times. Leave with the understanding that Gaza is not a destination to be consumed quickly, but a place whose daily life demands patience and attention.