San Juan
Introduction
San Juan is the capital city of Puerto Rico, an unincorporated territory and insular area of the United States. Spanish colonists founded it in 1521 and called it Ciudad de Puerto Rico.
Before you go
San Juan is a tropical city, so expect warm and humid conditions in summer and milder days in winter, with afternoon rain and thunderstorms common from April to November. Hurricanes and tropical storms are a risk from July to November. The sun is strong enough to catch visitors unaware while walking around, so bring sunblock and good walking shoes for the hills and cobblestone streets of Old San Juan, where brief showers can make the stones slippery. Spanish is the dominant language, and while many people who deal with tourists speak English fluently, you should be prepared to speak some Spanish to make yourself understood; English proficiency among Uber drivers varies widely. The tourist areas such as the Old City, Condado and Isla Verde tend to be very safe, with a visible 24-hour police presence in the Old City, but take common sense precautions: avoid exploring Ave. Fernandez Juncos in Puerta de Tierra at any time of day, do not enter the La Perla neighbourhood without a local guide, and do not go out alone late at night in Old San Juan. Buses serving outlying hotel areas stop running around 9 or 10PM, so carry enough money for a taxi if you plan to stay out.Getting there
San Juan is served by Luis Muñoz Marín International Airport, a large international hub about 14 km from the city, with airlines including Air Canada, American, Avianca, Condor, Copa, Delta, Frontier, Iberia, InterCaribbean, JetBlue, Southwest, Spirit, United and the domestic carrier Vieques Air Link. A secondary airport, Fernando Luis Ribas Dominicci (Isla Grande), handles only flights from Puerto Rico's smaller islands. Most travellers rent a car or take a taxi from the main airport; if you have more time than money, you can take public bus B-40 to Río Piedras and connect onward by local bus or público, though this is best attempted in the morning and requires correct change, as dollar bills are not accepted.
By sea, San Juan is a major cruise port, and most ships dock at Old San Juan; the busiest docks sit on the south side near a large city bus station, while another pier adjacent to the old Pan American airport handles mostly Royal Caribbean ships beginning or ending their cruises and must be reached by car or taxi. If you are cruising, arrive at least a day before your ship embarks so that airline troubles do not make you miss it, which also leaves time for sightseeing in Old San Juan. Ferries del Caribe runs an international passenger and vehicle service from Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic; the overnight journey requires Western Hemisphere Travel Initiative documentation and has strict rules on vehicle transportation, with fares payable in US dollars. There is also ferry service from across the harbour. Although you can easily drive to Old San Juan, driving and parking within the district is not easy because of the narrow streets. If you are staying at major hotels outside Old San Juan, day tours can usually be arranged with the concierge, though at busy times drivers may refuse those with significant luggage; for just getting around, consider the city bus to and from Old San Juan.
Getting around
How you get around San Juan depends heavily on which neighbourhood you base yourself in. If you stay in Old San Juan, walking is the natural way to explore — the compact, cobblestoned layout rewards pedestrians, and it is effectively the only way to move within the district, since buses do not enter it and parking is scarce. Organized bus and van day-trips to sights elsewhere on the island can be arranged through most hotels. In Puerta de Tierra, stations for nearly all bus lines sit within walking distance of the hotels, and most of the area's attractions are on the beach or a short walk away. Condado and Isla Verde are more spread out, so you will rely more on wheels there.
The public bus system is affordable and drivers are generally helpful to tourists, but service is unpredictable: posted schedules may promise a bus every 15, 20 or 30 minutes, yet waits of anywhere from 10 to 90 minutes are possible, traffic around Old San Juan gets heavy, and some trips require a transfer with more waiting. Buses generally stop running around 8 or 9 PM, most do not run at all on Sundays, and they may not feel safe after dark. Stops are marked "PARADA" — wave or flag your bus down or it may pass you by — and fares are paid in coins only, so stock up on quarters, though nickels and dimes are accepted. Useful routes include the T21, which connects Condado, the convention center, Old San Juan and the Sagrado Corazón Tren Urbano station, and the T5, which links Isla Verde and the main airport to Old San Juan via Miramar. To reach Old San Juan from Puerta de Tierra, take the T3, T5 or T9 to the last stop at Terminal Covadonga, near a major cruise ship pier; for Condado, board the T21 over the bridge to Ashford Avenue; for Isla Verde or the airport from the Puerta de Tierra hotels, take the T5 or D53. Some lines pass through non-touristic residential areas — if you find yourself on one, stay aboard rather than getting off in a potentially rough area, and ask the driver for advice. Drivers may also refuse to let you board with large baggage when heading to the airport, so plan a taxi for the return trip if your hotel has no shuttle. There is no public bus service connecting San Juan to the rest of the island; for travel beyond the city, look into guaguas, vans that run like group taxis on specific routes, though they may make multiple stops and take a long time to reach your destination. The free trolley that once served Old San Juan appears to be suspended indefinitely.
Taxis are dependable, especially for airport transfers and for places buses do not serve well. Cabs commonly wait at the end of the El Morro esplanade footpath and at the southwest corner of Plaza Colón, and they also hang around hotels and the east end of Calle de la Fortaleza. Fixed rates apply between the major tourist zones, with a surcharge per piece of luggage, and the meter is used otherwise; tolls are paid by the passenger, and a 10–15% tip is expected but not required. Ask your hotel front desk about the fare first, then confirm it with the driver before getting in. Taxis are at their most useful at night, when the buses have stopped.
A car makes it much easier to reach different parts of the city, the rest of the island, and the airport, and driving is straightforward if you are used to American road signs — Puerto Rico is a U.S. territory, so sign shapes will be familiar even where the words are Spanish. Budget for parking fees as you travel, and expect parking to be genuinely difficult in Old San Juan, where the streets are one-way and cobblestoned. If you must drive in, try parking along Calle de Norzagaray or other streets on the northern side, near the main attractions. The Estacionamiento Doña Fela garage on Calle del Recinto Sur offers parking in Old San Juan at reasonable prices, and there is free parking at the Puerta de Tierra beach.
Ferries cross San Juan Bay between Old San Juan and Cataño in roughly 12–15 minutes, scheduled to leave Old San Juan on the hour and Cataño at half past — though if enough passengers are waiting, the boat simply begins the next crossing, so allow extra time. A large wall-mounted bus map is available at the ferry terminal in Old San Juan.
Where to stay
San Juan has a wide range of accommodation, though few budget options of any kind — European-style youth hostels do not exist in the city. Colonial-style city hotels cluster in Old San Juan, while the big beachfront resorts are mostly out in El Condado and Isla Verde. Even a basic hotel room costs a fair amount, and a five-star resort considerably more, though discounts are available in the summer low season. Watch for "resort fees" at resorts and near beaches; they are often substantial and may not be mentioned until late in the online or agent booking process. Although Old San Juan is almost entirely surrounded by water, no hotels there have beach access. A few modern chain hotels sit near the cruise ship docks, some with casinos, and hotels within the city walls tend to be more colorful.
- For budget stays, vacation apartments within walking distance of the beach — individually owned units in condos in Isla Verde, or in Ocean Park and El Condado — come with fully equipped kitchens for saving money on meals. You may not get daily housekeeping, but the stay is more authentic than a sterile hotel. Guesthouses such as Guesthouse De La Tanca in Old San Juan offer small rooms with shared bathrooms, no air-con, and cheapest rooms without windows, though balcony rooms are breezy.
- Mid-range options include studio and suite hotels with views of the Atlantic Ocean and San Juan Bay, guest houses in Ocean Park, and small hotels in Old San Juan with rooftop restaurants and nearby casinos.
- Splurge properties range from a modern chic luxury resort in El Condado with views, restaurants, casino and nightlife, to upscale beachfront resorts and boutique hotels. In Old San Juan you can stay in a converted convent with a four-story courtyard, free afternoon wine and cheese, and a rooftop plunge pool overlooking the town, or in a 300-year-old boutique hotel and art gallery with Atlantic Ocean views, gardens, a rooftop deck at the highest point in Old San Juan, and seasonal classical concerts.
Food & drink
San Juan's food scene ranges from unassuming local landmarks to polished international kitchens. In Old San Juan, La Bombonera serves authentic local cuisine in a landmark atmosphere unchanged for decades, with fresh pastries and superlative coffee, while La Mallorca, run by the same owners, keeps a time-warp diner feel and is known for its Mallorca pastry and sandwiches. El Meson Sandwiches offers a large selection, including many vegetarian items, and El Jibarito serves authentic criolla food at moderate prices. Mojito's, despite its Cubanesque name and spot on the cruise ship trail, turns out big portions of no-nonsense pork, rice and beans - try the chuletas. Ostra Cosa has one of the most sensual and romantic ambiences in Old San Juan, and El Asador, The Grill Old San Juan, a two-level restaurant with an exterior patio, sits at the entrance of Old San Juan in the heart of the Old City's nightlife. For creative international cuisine, UVVA Restaurant in Ocean Park serves elegant yet casual fare, and BUNS Burger Shop on Ashford Avenue pairs high-quality beef burgers with a long beer list.
In Isla Verde, several major hotels run their own restaurants serving most if not all meals, and small malls and parking areas along the south side of the Avenida hold small restaurants offering traditional Puerto Rican food alongside branded fast food outlets. The Espana Bakery, on the south side of the highway at the west end, is the best place to get pastelitos of many types, Spanish-style soups such as Fabada Austriana or Caldo Gallego, sandwiches and cafecito. Mi Casita at Plazoneta De Isla Verde serves tasty breakfasts, lunches and dinners at attractive prices. In El Condado, Super Max and Freshmart cover grocery needs. Puerta de Tierra has little to no eating out, so eat in another area before returning to your hotel, or stock up from a mini-mart; El Hamburger, a loud burger pit packed at dinnertime with local families and beach-goers, serves freshly grilled burgers with a separate plate of toppings. In Old San Juan, Puerto Rican laws make it easy for restaurants to sell alcohol, and even modest lunch counters offer beer, wine and mixed drinks; tipping is customary. Look at the menu before entering tourist-oriented tapas bars and Latin fusion restaurants. Note that a public ordinance bans drinking alcoholic beverages on the street - rarely enforced, but it is recommended to consume alcohol inside establishments, though the rule is relaxed during the San Sebastian Festival within the cordoned festival area if using plastic containers. Barrachina on Calle Fortaleza is the home of the original Piña Colada, marked by a stone plaque on the outside wall, and La Taberna Lúpulo on Calle San Sebastian pours a wide range of Belgian, English, German and American craft beers with pub food in an open-air colonial setting. El Patio de Sam is a popular late-night joint with a good selection of beers and live entertainment, and the Nuyorican Cafe is a good live music venue for salsa, Latin jazz and folkloric music. In Puerta de Tierra you are largely restricted to your hotel's lounges for drinking, as there are no other bars in that part of town.
What to see and do
Old San Juan is the heart of the historic city, a compact grid of narrow streets best explored on foot to avoid the traffic. The San Juan National Historic Site anchors the area: Castillo San Cristóbal, one of the largest Spanish fortresses in the New World, has a National Park Service visitor center with an introductory film, exhibits and a bookshop, while Castillo San Felipe del Morro (el Morro) commands the entrance to San Juan Harbor at the end of Calle Norzagaray. The broad esplanade between the citadel and the town is a popular spot for kite flying, and you should allow at least an hour for each fort. The park also takes in much of the historic city walls and the tiny Fortín San Juan de la Cruz (el Cañuelo) across the harbor on Isla de Cabras. Elsewhere in the old town, La Fortaleza (the Palacio de Santa Catalina) is the official residence of Puerto Rico's governor and the oldest executive mansion in the New World, while San José Church dates to 1523 and San Juan Cathedral holds the tomb of Juan Ponce de León. You can also visit the Alcaldía on Plaza de Armas, the Casa Blanca museum at the western end of Calle San Sebastián, the Cuartel de Ballajá (now the Museo de las Américas), the Museo de San Juan, La Casa del Libro with its early manuscripts and books, the Felisa Rincón de Gautier Museum, the municipal cemetery of Santa María Magdalena de Pazzis just outside the walls, La Princesa overlooking the bay, and La Casa Estrecha, the remarkably narrow house on Calle Tetuan. Beyond the old town, Puerta de Tierra has a few points of interest: the Casa de España, worth a look for its old-world architectural accents even if you can't go inside, the Ateneo de Puerto Rico, and Fuerte San Jerónimo near the entrance to the Condado lagoon. For museums further afield, the Museo de Arte in Santurce is the island's showcase for its cultural heritage, and the Caparra Ruins and Museum mark the first Spanish settlement in Puerto Rico, with the ruins of Juan Ponce de León's house and fort. To relax, head for the beaches of Condado and Isla Verde, or Balneario el Escambrón in Puerta de Tierra, a family-friendly beach sheltered by a coral reef where you can see fish in the calm water and, on a clear day, distant views of both San Cristóbal and El Morro. Central Park is the place for jogging, tennis and baseball, while Parque Luis Muñoz Rivera, by the ocean, is a fine spot to walk among the trees and landscaping.When to go
San Juan is a tropical city, and its weather shapes the rhythm of a visit. The mild, dry winter months are the most comfortable stretch of the year, with days typically in the low 80s and nights in the low 70s. Rain is less of a factor than in the wetter months, making this prime time for sightseeing and the beach.
- Winter: Mild, dry days and nights, with less rain — the best conditions for exploring the city and spending time on the beach.
- Spring into early summer: Afternoon rain and thunderstorms become a regular feature from April onward, temperatures climb toward summer levels, and humidity starts to build.
- Summer and hurricane season: Hot and humid, with days generally in the high 80s and nights in the high 70s. Afternoon rain and thunderstorms are common, and hurricanes or tropical storms can hit from July through November, so keep your travel plans flexible.
Festivals & events
San Juan's festival calendar is anchored by the San Sebastian Festival, held each January. If your visit coincides with it, expect the city to be in a celebratory mood, with the event standing as the principal festival on the annual schedule.Three days in San Juan
Day one: Start in Old San Juan, the historic heart of the city, where the streets are lined with Spanish colonial architecture and the atmosphere is unmistakably Caribbean. Wander the Old City on foot, taking in the forts and plazas, and pause for a meal of local criollo cooking. In the evening, head to Condado for a change of pace, where the beachfront strip offers bars and restaurants within easy walking distance of the sand.
Day two: Spend the morning along Ave Fernandez Juncos, then continue east to Isla Verde, whose long beach is the city's most popular stretch of sand. If you want a break from the coast, take a short trip to Puerta de Tierra or look out over La Perla from the walls of the Old City. Buses and Uber both make getting around straightforward, so you can move between neighbourhoods without a car.
Day three: Use your last day to explore beyond the centre. Vieques Air Link and flights from Luis Muñoz Marín International or Fernando Luis Ribas Dominicci, also known as Isla Grande, connect San Juan with the rest of Puerto Rico and the wider Caribbean. Note that the city is warm and humid for much of the year, with hurricanes possible from July through November, so plan indoor stops for the hottest part of the afternoon. Airlines serving the city include Air Canada, American, Avianca, Condor, Copa, Delta, Frontier, Iberia, InterCaribbean, JetBlue, Southwest, Spirit and United.