Gilgit
Introduction
Gilgit is the capital of Gilgit-Baltistan, in the disputed Kashmir region, and the largest city in the Pakistani-administered territory. It sits in the broad Gilgit Valley near the meeting point of the Gilgit and Hunza rivers, a position that makes it the practical starting point for travel through northern Pakistan.
For trekkers and mountaineers, the city is the main hub for expeditions into the Karakoram range, and it draws visitors as one of the country's major tourist destinations. Use it as your base for arranging the onward journey into the mountains.
Before you go
Gilgit is at its most accessible between May and mid-October, so plan your trip around that window if you want to make the most of the area's beauty and nature. Outside those months, conditions are less suited to visiting.
On the language front, the local dialect is Shina, but Urdu and English are also spoken and understood, so you can generally get by without learning Shina first. In terms of safety, Gilgit is fairly stable compared to other regions, and both local and foreign travelers continue to visit and enjoy the area.
Getting there
Most travellers reach Gilgit by road, as the city sits just off the Karakoram Highway between Chilas and Karimabad. From Islamabad and Rawalpindi, NATCO (Northern Areas Transport Corporation) runs the government bus service and carries foreign passengers; the journey can take as long as 24 hours, so bring about ten passport copies for the driver, who must present them at every police checkpoint on the highway. Faisal Movers also serves the route, leaving from Faizabad station, which you can reach by the red Metro Bus line or by taxi. Buy your ticket at the station the day before, as seats sell out. Faisal Movers may route you through Kaghan Valley and over Babusar Pass rather than along part of the Karakoram Highway — quicker and more picturesque, but potentially more dangerous. The drivers are professional but drive very fast, so consider another company if you prefer a slower ride. Photocopy services are available at bus stations in both Islamabad and Gilgit. Flying is the fast alternative: Gilgit has a small airport with scheduled PIA flights from Islamabad that take just 45 minutes. Delays and cancellations are frequent, however, because of severe weather.Getting around
Gilgit has no rail, metro, or tram network, so getting around relies entirely on road-based transport. The town centre itself is reasonably walkable, and walking is a practical way to cover it. For anything farther out, hire a taxi or hop on one of the many commuter minivans. If you see a minivan, hail it by waving, get on, and knock on the driver's cabin whenever you want to hop off. Taxis are cheap, and there are no rideshare apps, so you flag vehicles down rather than booking through a phone.
For trips beyond the town, jeep hire is the main option, and sites such as Naltar, Kargah, and the Danyore inscriptions all require a vehicle. Onward journeys to Hunza, Skardu, and Fairy Meadows go by jeep or shared car, booked through hotels or from bazaar yards; some destinations, including Fairy Meadows and Basho Meadows, need 4×4 jeeps. Agree on the price and waiting time before departure and arrange return times in advance, since mobile signal is poor to non-existent in remote areas. You could also rent a car, or for the more adventurous a motorbike, but inform yourself which roads and sections are safe to drive and keep the weather in mind — the Karakoram Highway toward the Chinese border is well built, while many other roads are poor, notably the Gilgit–Skardu road. Petrol is available in most parts of the roads in Gilgit-Baltistan, and motorbike mechanics are usually plentiful and very cheap. Many main attractions are decentralised and not accessible by public transport, though guesthouses often arrange transport for a reasonable price.
Where to stay
Gilgit is one of the cheapest places in the region to find a bed, and the budget end of the market is well served. Madina Guest House at NLI Chowk is popular with foreigners and has a restaurant with a courtyard seating area. New Tourist Cottage is also a favourite with foreign travellers, offering large, well-maintained private doubles with bath and outdoor seating areas. Madina Hotel 2 on Goal Road, just north of the airport, draws backpackers with private rooms set around a garden courtyard, a small restaurant serving good food, and a dorm room; the owner is known for being welcoming, and there is secure parking and Wifi. Park Hotel Gilgit and Gilgit Motel are further options, and Park Hotel on Airport Road, on the main road from Jutial to the main market, is spacious, serves good food and sits close to antique shops.
At the top end, the Gilgit Serena Hotel on Sherullah Baig Road in Jutial is the choice for a splurge.
Food & drink
In Gilgit you can eat local fruit — apples, cherries and apricots — along with nuts such as almonds, chestnuts and walnuts. Restaurants serve everything from Western breakfasts to local fare, including salted tea and bread, Chinese dishes and tanduries. Note that people here do not eat spicy food the way they do in the rest of the country. Local food centres on special baked breads in several varieties, handmade-noodle soups, salted and roasted meats, vegetables, fruits and dairy products. Everything is organic, as people here follow traditional farming without chemical fertilizers or sprays. For a drink, most high-end hotels have their own bars, and in some areas you can find local alcohol too.What to see and do
Gilgit town itself is compact, with its traditional bazaar ending at the Gilgit Bridge, a long suspension span over the fast-flowing river wide enough for a single jeep to cross. Nearby, on a rock beside Kargah Nullah, you can see a rock engraving of Buddha dating from the 7th century, and further out lies the victory monument of Taj Mughal. The Old British Cemetery is another stop within reach of town.
The surrounding valleys reward longer trips. Naltar Valley, reached by jeep, offers alpine forest, small lakes and glaciers, a ski slope, and trout fishing, with trekking routes linking to the Iskoman, Chalt and Punial valleys. Sher Qilla also has trout fishing in its nullah and a small lake, and its trekking route connects with Naltar. Singal links by trail with Chilas and Kohistan, while Gahkuch, gateway to the Iskoman Valley, is a base for trekking, fishing and duck shooting, with archaeological sites in the village and nearby Hatoon. From Gilgit you can also arrange jeep trips to Ghizer, Chilas, Astor, Hunza, Skardu and Ghanchy, and to Fairy Meadows.
This is walking and trekking country. Mountaineering, trekking and hiking are all possible, with permits for restricted zones issued through the Ministry of Tourism in Islamabad, and fishing permits from the Fisheries Department. You can go boating or rafting on the Gilgit and Indus rivers, try paragliding with the local association, or cycle and mountain bike the Silk Route. Spring brings cherry, almond and apricot blossom, and from June to October the trees are heavy with fruit; roses, lilies, pansies, willow, pine and fir grow throughout. Hotels and inns generally allow camping with basic facilities, and walking tours, guided or self-guided, are an easy way to meet the locals.
When to go
Gilgit has a cold desert climate, so you can expect very little rain at any time of year — the Himalayas block the monsoon before it reaches the valley. Summer is brief but hot, and the extremes of the weather make landslides and avalanches frequent in the area, which can disrupt your travel plans.Three days in Gilgit
Day one: Base yourself in Gilgit and get your bearings in the Gilgit Valley. Use the town as your starting point for the Karakoram, and spend the day acclimatising rather than rushing onward. Shina, Urdu and English are all spoken here, so getting around and asking questions is straightforward. If you have arrived overland, you have likely come via the Karakoram Highway from Chilas, or from Islamabad and Rawalpindi through the Kaghan Valley and Babusar Pass.
Day two: Head for Hunza and Karimabad, travelling the Karakoram Highway north. The Karakoram views along the way are the reason most travellers come, and Karimabad makes a natural place to stop and look out over the valley. Allow time for the drive and for delays, and keep your plans flexible rather than fixing a tight schedule.
Day three: Return to Gilgit or continue onward, depending on how much time you have. May to October is the season when the routes are most usable; outside that window, conditions are far less predictable. If you are flying, PIA serves the region, but delays are common, so build in slack. For the overland option, NATCO, Northern Areas Transport Corporation and Faisal Movers are the operators to look for, with services from Islamabad and Rawalpindi and connections from Faizabad by Metro Bus. Buy your ticket early, and photocopy your documents before you travel.