Mirpur Khas

Introduction

Mirpur Khas is a city in Sindh province, Pakistan, built by the Talpur rulers of the Mankani branch. Its history is tied to that Talpur legacy, which shaped the city from its founding.

Before you go

Getting there

Mirpur Khas lies about 80 km east of Hyderabad and can be reached by train, car or bus. Buses run from all the major cities of Sindh, and air-conditioned bus and van services from Karachi cover the journey in around three hours.

On the rails, the non-air-conditioned Saman Sarkar Express connects Mirpur Khas with Hyderabad, while the Marvi Passenger runs between Mirpur Khas and the border town of Khokhropar, passing through the Thar Desert. Trains call at Mirpur Khas railway station.

Getting around

Mirpur Khas has no metro, tram, or urban rail, so getting around relies on rickshaws, taxis, and small buses. Rickshaws are the cheapest and quickest way to move between one part of the city and another, and they work perfectly well for a city tour. Two kinds operate side by side: shared motorcycle rickshaws, handy for short hops, and conventional auto-rickshaws that are easy to flag down on the street. Fares are low and bargaining is routine, particularly in the bazaars. For sights on the outskirts, such as the Chittori archaeological site and its Talpur tombs, you can hire a rickshaw for the round trip and negotiate a flat rate rather than a metered fare.

Taxis here are generally private cars run by taxi companies rather than marked cabs cruising the streets, so the reliable approach is to pick one up from a taxi stand or ask your hotel to arrange one. Hotel-arranged taxis tend to be air-conditioned, modern, and clean, making them the most comfortable option during the blistering summer heat. There is no app-based ride-hailing to count on. Small local buses, minibuses, and shared vans serve shorter regional routes at low fares, while the colonial-era railway station handles intercity rail rather than local hops. Walking works well for the bazaars and central streets — Shahi Bazaar, Baldia Shopping Center, and Khisakpura are best experienced on foot — but the city is not designed around pedestrians for longer journeys, and the summer heat makes walking uncomfortable for much of the year. Carry cash, since ATM coverage is limited outside the main bazaars.

Where to stay

Mirpur Khas keeps its accommodation simple, with a handful of small hotels and guest houses rather than large chains. Most of the options sit along or near M.A. Jinnah Road, the main spine of the city, which puts you within easy reach of the centre. If you want the most comfortable stay in town, Bisma Hotel is the standout: a centralised hotel with seventeen air-conditioned rooms, all with attached baths, free Wi-Fi, cable TV and a fridge, plus a restaurant inside. It is also the only female-friendly hotel in the city, with security guards on duty.

• Bisma Hotel, M.A. Jinnah Rd — air-conditioned rooms with attached baths, free Wi-Fi, cable TV, fridge and a restaurant; guarded and female-friendly.
• Hotel Marhaba, M.A. Jinnah Rd near State Life Building — single and double rooms, air-conditioned and non-air-conditioned, all with cable TV, attached bath and free Wi-Fi.
• Hotel Mehran, New Town — nine air-conditioned rooms with cable TV, free Wi-Fi, attached bath and a generator.
• Al-Pine Guest House, Hyderabad Rd opposite Tharparkar Motors near Allied Bank — six air-conditioned rooms with cable LCD TV and attached baths; no Wi-Fi.

Hotel Marhaba and Hotel Mehran both offer the choice of air-conditioned or non-air-conditioned rooms, which makes them the flexible picks if you are watching your budget. Al-Pine Guest House is the smallest of the group and the only one without Wi-Fi, so plan accordingly if you need to stay connected.

Food & drink

Mirpur Khas keeps things simple when it comes to eating: small restaurants are scattered throughout the city, almost all of them serving Pakistani food. For a wider choice, head to Station Rd or Hyderabad Rd, where several places are worth seeking out and most turn to barbecue in the evening.

• Sufyania Food Centre — among the best dining spots in town, with an air-conditioned dining area and a menu spanning Pakistani, Continental and Chinese dishes, plus barbecue and fast food.
• Aftab Restaurant, Station Rd — locally famous for its Karahi, available with chicken or mutton, and the portions are more than enough for one person.
• Cafe Shiraaz, Hyderabad Road — quality food, and locally known for its tasty tea and patties.
• Mehboob Restaurant — another town favourite for Karahi, again in chicken and mutton versions.

What to see and do

Mirpur Khas rewards travellers who look beyond the obvious. Northeast of the city, the Chitorri graveyard holds the ancestral tombs of the Talpur Mirs, the former rulers of Mirpurkhas. The sandstone monuments are decorated with finely carved calligraphy from the 17th and 18th centuries, and the architecture alone makes the trip worthwhile. Closer in, Kahu Jo Darro is the oldest historical site in the city, a Buddhist archaeological site where a stupa was excavated. Be aware that neglect has left little of interest for the casual visitor, though archaeologists and researchers may still find remains worth studying.

In the city itself, the Mirpur Khas Museum displays antiques and armoury that belonged to the Talpur rulers, and it also functions as a library. Among the old Hindu temples of Mirpur Khas, Shiva Mandir is the oldest and worth seeking out.

Three days in Mirpur Khas

Day one: Arrive in Mirpur Khas, a city in Sindh, Pakistan, with a history tied to the Talpur and Mankani eras. Its roots stretch back before the Buddhist site of Kao Jo Daro and the rule of Mir Ali Murad Talpur and the Talpur Mirs. Mirpurkhas, as it is also spelled, was part of British India before Partition, and after Partition it drew Indian migrants from Rajasthan. Plan your arrival by bus from Hyderabad or Karachi, or by train on the Saman Sarkar Express or Marvi Passenger from Khokhropar in the Thar Desert. Trains, rickshaws, and taxis are available, with two fares for the latter. Settle into a hotel, then take a small walking tour of Shahi Bazaar and Baldia Shopping Center to get your bearings.

Day two: Spend the morning exploring the character of the city's neighbourhoods, including Khisakpura, and continue your walk through the commercial heart around Shahi Bazaar. Use rickshaws or taxis to move between areas, keeping in mind the two fares for taxis. The weather can be warm and dry, so pace yourself. In the afternoon, visit the sites associated with the Talpur Mirs and the Mankani legacy, and reflect on the layers of history from the Buddhist period at Kao Jo Daro through to British India and after Partition.

Day three: Plan a final morning for any remaining sights in Mirpur Khas, perhaps returning to Baldia Shopping Center or Khisakpura for last impressions. If you are continuing your journey, buses to Hyderabad and Karachi are available, as are trains such as the Saman Sarkar Express and Marvi Passenger toward Khokhropar. Rickshaws and taxis can take you to the station or bus stand, with two fares for taxis. Check out of your hotel and depart, having seen the city's blend of Sindh history and its post-Partition Indian and Rajasthani influences.