Larkana
Introduction
Larkana sits in the Sindh province of Pakistan, with the historic Indus River flowing along its eastern and southern edges. The city is best known as the gateway to Mohenjo-daro, the Indus Valley civilization site that lies within its reach.
Before you go
Before you go, it helps to know the city by its older name: until the early twentieth century, Larkana was known as Chandka, and in Sindhi the name is pronounced "Larkano." The city marked the hundredth anniversary of its founding in August 2000, so its modern identity is relatively young even though the surrounding region is not. The source material for Larkana is limited, and practical details on safety are sparse, so plan conservatively and gather current local information before you travel rather than relying on this guide alone.Getting there
Larkana is served by its own railway station, with two daily trains making brief stops: the Bolan Mail between Karachi and Quetta, which offers both economical and air-conditioned class, and the Khushal Khan Khattak Express between Karachi and Peshawar, which has economical class only.
By road, the city sits on National Highway N-55, the Indus Highway, which runs from Karachi to Peshawar, so buses for Larkana are easy to find from towns along the route. From Karachi, both air-conditioned and non-air-conditioned buses serve Larkana and depart from the Blue Lines bus station on Dr Daud Pota Road, near the Cantonment railway station; the journey takes around ten hours. From Sukkur, the bus ride takes two to three hours.
Getting around
Larkana is compact, and the central sights sit close enough together that walking covers short hops in the middle of town. Do your walking in the cooler parts of the day: the city has a hot desert climate with sweltering summers and mild winters. Dress modestly, covering shoulders and knees, and consider loose cotton or linen; women may want a light scarf or shawl.
- Motorcycle rickshaws, locally called qingqis, are the handiest and most affordable way to move around. Drivers don't use meters, so agree on the fare before you set off.
- Taxis are available too, and booking one through your hotel is the most reliable approach.
- Buses and vans run within the city alongside the rickshaws and taxis, so you'll rarely wait long for a ride.
- Carry small bills in Pakistani rupees — cash is needed for transport, bazaars and small cafes. Cards may be accepted at large hotels, but not for everyday rides.
- Larkana Junction railway station sits in the centre of the city and connects it to the rest of Sindh and Pakistan. Two trains stop briefly each day: Bolan Mail, between Karachi and Quetta, with economical and air-conditioned class, and Khushal Khan Khattak Express, between Karachi and Peshawar, economical class only. Buy your ticket in advance.
- Larkana lies on National Highway N-55, the Indus Highway, making it easy to reach by bus from cities along the route. From Sukkur, buses take about two to three hours and this is the heaviest bus and minibus route into the city; from Rahim Yar Khan there is a direct route of a few hours.
- Moenjodaro Airport is the closest airport, near the Mohenjo-daro archaeological site; from there, arrange a taxi or bus into the city. Sukkur Airport is an alternative, roughly an hour and a half away by taxi or bus.
Sindhi and Urdu are the main languages spoken, though English is generally understood by hotel staff and educated residents, which makes arranging transport straightforward. Drink only bottled water and avoid tap water and ice from street vendors.
Where to stay
Most of Larkana's places to stay cluster along Station Road, which puts you within easy reach of the railway station and the main stretch through town. The Asia on Station Road is a solid choice, with air-conditioned rooms, free Wi-Fi and its own restaurant. Also on Station Road, the Paris Inn is another dependable option in the same part of the city.
- Asia — Station Road; A/C rooms, free Wi-Fi, restaurant.
- Paris Inn — Station Road; a good place to stay in town.
- Green Palace Hotel — on the main stretch; reasonably clean and spacious rooms, among the cheapest options in the area.
If you're watching your budget, the Green Palace Hotel offers reasonably clean and spacious rooms along the main stretch and counts among the cheapest options around. Wherever you settle, staying near Station Road keeps you central and makes getting around straightforward.
When to go
Larkana has a hot desert climate, so the timing of your visit shapes everything you do outdoors. Winters are mild and count as the most comfortable stretch for getting around and spending time outside, though nights can turn genuinely cold — the lowest temperatures on record have occurred in this season, so bring layers if you are out after dark.
- Monsoon (July to September): most of the year's rain arrives in these months, bringing the heaviest downpours and the most humidity of the year. Rain can be intense and disruptive, and the city has seen extreme seasonal totals in some years.
- Summer: heat builds into extreme, sweltering conditions, with the highest recorded temperature falling in May. Daytime activity is punishing, so plan around the heat.
Three days in Larkana
Day one: Arrive in Larkana, the main city of Sindh's Larkana District, and settle into the rhythm of the place. If you come by rail, you'll pull into Larkana Junction, served by trains such as the Bolan Mail from Karachi and Quetta and the Khushal Khan Khattak Express from Peshawar. By road, the National Highway and the Indus Highway connect the city with Karachi, Sukkur and Rahim Yar Khan, and you can also fly in via Moenjodaro Airport or Sukkur Airport. Once you're in, take a walk through the streets and get a feel for the city's character, then eat simply — Sindhi cooking is the local staple, and Larkano is the name locals use for both the city and its people.
- Larkana Junction
- Bolan Mail
- Khushal Khan Khattak Express
- National Highway
- Indus Highway
- Moenjodaro Airport
- Sukkur Airport
Day two: Give the day to Mohenjo-daro, the Indus Valley site that draws most travellers here. It sits near the Indus River, and the ruins are the reason many people put Larkana on their route in the first place. Plan your transport in advance — taxis, buses and motorcycle rickshaws are the usual ways around, and drivers can be arranged through your accommodation. Carry water and sun protection, dress modestly, and keep Pakistani rupees and cards on hand for the day's expenses. August is hot, so start early and take the middle of the day slowly.
- Mohenjo-daro
- Indus Valley
- Indus River
- Taxis
- Buses
- Motorcycle rickshaws
Day three: Use your last day for the city itself. Chandka is one of the local names and landmarks you'll hear mentioned around Larkana, and the streets around the Cantonment and Dr Daud Pota Road give you a sense of how the city is laid out. Buy a few things to take home — Blue Lines is a local name worth knowing — and sort out your onward travel, whether that's back to Karachi, on to Sukkur, or further afield. If you have time before you leave, a last look at the Indus River is a fitting way to close the trip.
- Chandka
- Cantonment
- Dr Daud Pota Road
- Blue Lines
- Karachi
- Sukkur
- Indus River