Puerto Princesa
Introduction
Puerto Princesa is a highly urbanized city in the Mimaropa region of the Philippines. It is the kind of place where the city itself is only part of the story, with the surrounding landscapes of Palawan shaping much of what draws travellers here.
Before you go
Puerto Princesa has a tourist information office at the airport, next to the arrival hall, but you should not count on it for planning. It is not that useful: staff will try to sell you tours, but they do not have maps and do not give information about current events in the city. They do not book accommodation either.
Plan your trip before you arrive rather than relying on that desk. Bring any maps you need with you, and arrange your own accommodation and tour bookings in advance.
Getting there
Puerto Princesa International Airport (PPS) sits on the National Highway in San Miguel, close enough to downtown that you can skip the tricycles waiting at the terminal and flag one down on the highway instead, or catch a jeepney along the highway to town or the bus terminal. The airport's new terminal handles both domestic and international flights, though boarding and alighting still happen on the ground. Philippine Airlines, Cebu Pacific and Air Asia all fly in daily from Manila, Cebu and Clark; Cebu Pacific also serves Iloilo, Tiger Air Taiwan connects Taipei, Eastar Jet links Seoul, and Air Juan reaches Busuanga, Cuyo, Sipalay and San Vicente.
By sea, 2GO Travel runs two weekly ferries from Manila, a trip of roughly 22 hours, while Milagrosa Shipping sails weekly between Puerto Princesa, the Cuyo Islands and Iloilo City. Ferries dock at Puerto Princesa port, at the far western end of Rizal Ave. Overland, buses and vans arrive from across Palawan at the Puerto Princesa Grand Terminal (San Jose Terminal) in Tagburos, a large complex with buses departing near the San Jose public market and UV Express vans from scattered terminals nearby, surrounded by small shops, a supermarket and a public market. Cherry and RORO Bus are the main operators, alongside smaller, cramped, non-air-conditioned vehicles often rebuilt from old trucks; Cherry runs trips to El Nido every two hours, and RORO four hourly morning departures. Note that locals report the San Jose terminal has stopped operating, with buses to destinations around Palawan, including Port Barton, now leaving instead from the Irawan terminal, reachable by local bus on the main road.
Getting around
Getting around Puerto Princesa means relying on road transport, since the city has no rail, metro or tram network. Jeepneys, multicabs and tricycles are the most common ways to travel. Jeepneys run on fixed routes much as they do in Manila and are the cheapest option for longer in-town trips, though the routes are often unclear to visitors and don't reach every tourist spot. Tricycles — motorbikes with sidecars — handle short trips and reach places jeepneys don't, but they're cramped, open-air and a poor choice for bulky luggage, heavy rain or long rides outside the centre. Agree on the fare before boarding and confirm whether it's per person or per ride; keep small bills ready, as drivers may lack change. Tricycles generally run from early morning until around 10–11 PM, while jeepneys run daytime only and are crowded at peak hours. Taxis are less common for short city rides and mostly found at the airport, large hotels and some malls; they're metered, so insist on the meter if a driver quotes a fixed fare. Ride-hailing is inconsistent — treat it as a bonus rather than your main plan. For touring, arrange special transport, whether a jeepney or, for more comfort, an air-conditioned van or AUV, so you aren't at the mercy of public transport availability. The city centre around Rizal Avenue and the Baywalk is relatively walkable, with the Immaculate Conception Cathedral, Plaza Cuartel and the Palawan Heritage Center close enough together for a self-guided walking tour. Beyond that, walking is a challenge: there are few pedestrian crossings, most drivers do not yield to pedestrians, pavements are uneven in places, and the heat is intense. Tourist vans and other vehicles are often parked along Rizal Avenue and other main streets where pedestrians and cyclists could once move. Dedicated bike lanes are limited and cycling on main roads is difficult, so it's better suited to quieter residential areas and less-trafficked roads outside the centre; avoid busy main roads at peak hours and dimly lit or deserted streets at night. If you want to walk or bike in a clean, green and safe area downtown, ask at the tourist office at the airport where such an area exists. Puerto Princesa International Airport sits on the National Highway in San Miguel, close to downtown and many city hotels. Rather than accepting the tricycles waiting at the terminal, you can walk out to the highway to catch a tricycle for a much lower fare, and jeepneys run along the highway in front of the airport both into town and to the bus terminal. Taxis and ride-hailing are available at slightly higher rates, hotel shuttles are pre-bookable, and private van or car transfers can be arranged through travel agencies or online platforms. For longer trips, Underground River tours usually include hotel transport, while Honda Bay is reachable by tricycle or taxi from the city centre. Whatever you choose, confirm booking details and pick-up times in advance, and screenshot your hotel name, address, phone number, map pin and booking confirmation to store offline.Where to stay
Puerto Princesa covers most budgets, from simple pension houses and hostels to high-end hotels and island resorts. If you're watching your pesos, look at the pension houses and guesthouses in the city centre: options such as Duchess Pension on E Valencia Street, Dallas Inn and Cafe on Carandang Street, and Aniceto's Pension on Reynoso Street offer fan or air-conditioned rooms, some with private bathrooms and some sharing. Hostels and dorm beds are also available, including Sheebang Hostel on Libis Road, O M G Backpackers and Ezy Stay Pension House on Rizal Avenue, and J L C Hostel on Old Buncag Road. Several places sit in greener, quieter spots while remaining close to the centre, such as Kuhl-In Pension on Libis Road in San Pedro, House of Rose off Abueg Road, and Tree House Inn on Malvar Street. If you're staying a while, Kuhl-In Pension is worth asking about for monthly arrangements.
Mid-range travellers have plenty of choice, mostly along Malvar Street, Rizal Avenue and the national highway. Grande Vista Hotel, Sunlight Guest Hotel, Edgardo's Place, La Charica Inn, Puerto Pension and The Legend Hotel Palawan are among the central picks, while 2 Seasons Guesthouse, Palo Alto Bed & Breakfast, Hibiscus Garden Inn, Liberty Park Pension, Hotel Centro and Amerson Pension Place offer air-conditioned rooms with extras such as restaurants, massage service, tour assistance and airport transfers. For something more resort-like, Carpe Diem Villas & Resort in San Pedro has pool-access rooms and private-pool villas, and Villa Leonora Beach Resort sits further out along the national highway at Barangay San Rafael. High-end beach resorts include Dos Palmas Arreceffi Island Resort in Honda Bay and Microtel Inn & Suites at the Emerald Playa Beach and Nature Park in Barangay San Jose. Wherever you look, it pays to see the room before you check in, since standards vary between properties and even between rooms in the same place.
Food & drink
Seafood is the local specialty, and you can find it prepared in distinct styles across the city. A&A Seafood Palace, on the national highway at the corner of Wescom Road, serves authentic Chinese cuisine with seafood dishes prepared by a Hong Kong chef. KaLui Restaurant on Rizal Avenue is known for its seafood and its ambiance, and it opens for dinner only, so it can get busy and a reservation is worth making. For a change from local cooking, Ditchay's, a French bistro on Manalo Extension in Bancao Bancao, offers an intimate setting where you can chat with the cook and owner, with a menu spanning paté rillettes, confit, soups, salads, grilled dishes, seafood, pork, beef, chicken, duck, crêpes and pastries. Carpe Diem, inside the resort of the same name on F. Ponce de Leon Road in San Pedro, is an open-air restaurant in a tropical garden serving French-inspired dishes alongside Filipino and international options, with breakfast, à-la-carte lunch and dinner, and cocktails; it welcomes outside visitors and walk-ins. Other options include Ima's Vegetarian Restaurant on Fernandez Street for vegetarian mains, Kinabuchs Grill and Bar, a sports bar and grill that draws visitors and has pool and live sports, and Artisan's on Rizal Avenue.
For something sweet, Divine Sweets on Valencia Street serves cakes, coffee and shakes, and also offers food. When it comes to drinks, Cafe Nori in the Circon Building on Valencia Street pairs Japanese cuisine with Filipino and American dishes and offers fruit shakes, coffee and frappuccinos. Reggae Pulse Bar at the 4th District Tiangge Centre on Rizal Avenue serves ice-cold beers, beer towers and buckets, cocktails and mixed drinks, with free WiFi and a bamboo VIP lounge.
What to see and do
Puerto Princesa's headline sight is the Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park, an underground river winding through cave formations with crystalline waters, reached by small pumpboats from Sabang Beach. The journey from the city proper to Sabang takes about 1.5 hours by road, or closer to 3.5 hours if you take a Jeepney that stops to deliver goods along the way. A permit is required and can be purchased in Puerto Princesa or at Sabang pier. Ask whether you can make the return trip by trekking through the park and jungle; that requires a guide, but it is worth your time. Near the Underground River, Ugong Rock is a limestone formation amid farmlands and karst forests where you can go spelunking or ride a zip line.
For swimming, snorkeling and island hopping, head to Honda Bay, a cluster of islets with beautiful beaches reached via the Sta. Lourdes wharf, about 25 minutes from the city; pumpboats there can be hired for the various islets. Arrive before 11AM if you need a small boat, or before 2:30PM for a larger one. In town, White Beach on Abueg Road in Bancao Bancao is the only beach in the city; it is no longer white or pristine, but it is a good place to meet locals over drinks. Other stops include the Iwahig Penal Colony, a farming community where inmates live with their families and carve mahogany handicrafts, and the Palawan Wildlife Rescue and Conservation Center, formerly the Crocodile Farming Institute, with a guided crocodile tour and a mini-zoo of Palawan's endemic species. The Butterfly Garden, with native Palawan butterflies, sits along the same road. For history, visit Plaza Cuartel on Taft Street near the Cathedral, the restored ruins of a garrison where Japanese soldiers burned American prisoners of war, and the Palawan Special Battalion World War II Memorial Museum near the airport. Museums include the Palawan Heritage Center next to the Provincial Capitol, the Palawan Museum on Valencia Street, and the small PSU Museum at Palawan State University. Rizal Avenue is the main commercial strip for shops, banks, restaurants and budget inns, and you can buy native handicrafts — manunggul jars, bulol figures, tingkop rice baskets, bark bags and cashew nut delicacies — from the Tourism Association of Souvenir Shops. Diving is good here and a fair place to take a PADI course before heading to larger sites; Moana dive centre runs courses with confined water dives in the shallow parts of the bay, where you may see sea turtles, eels, lionfish, porcupine fish, batfish and snapper.
When to go
Puerto Princesa is warm and humid throughout the year, so heat and humidity will shape your days whenever you visit. The year splits into two broad stretches: a dry season from January to April and a wet season from May to December.
- Dry season (January to April): Very little rain falls, giving you sunny, warm and humid days that suit beaches and island hopping. This is the driest stretch of the year, though the heat and humidity are still present.
- Wet season (May to December): Expect frequent rain across a warm and humid stretch of the year. Plan around downpours, and be aware that outdoor trips and boat crossings can be affected by the wetter conditions.
Three days in Puerto Princesa
Day one: Arrive at Puerto Princesa International Airport (PPS) on the National Highway in San Miguel, served by Philippine Airlines, Cebu Pacific, Air Asia, Tiger Air Taiwan, Eastar Jet and Air Juan from Manila, Cebu, Clark, Iloilo, Taipei, Seoul, Busuanga, Cuyo, Sipalay and San Vicente. By sea, Milagrosa Shipping links the Cuyo Islands and Iloilo City, and ferries also call. Overland, the Puerto Princesa Grand Terminal and San Jose Terminal handle buses and vans. Settle in and walk Rizal Ave.
Day two: Plan a day around the city and its coast, using Rizal Ave as your base. Bring what you need for warm, humid conditions. If you want to travel onward, note the connections from PPS and the terminals, and the ferry and shipping links to the Cuyo Islands and Iloilo City.
Day three: Use your last day for the places within reach of Puerto Princesa, including San Miguel and Tagburos, before returning to the airport or a terminal. It is part of Mimaropa, in Palawan, in the Philippines. They are the options to plan around.