Malolos
Introduction
Malolos is a component city and the capital of Bulacan province in the Philippines, and it serves as the seat of the provincial government. As the provincial capital, it is where the business of running Bulacan is conducted.
The city is home to a large population, giving it the busy, built-up feel of an urban centre rather than a quiet provincial town. If you are travelling through Bulacan, Malolos is the administrative heart of the province and a natural point of orientation.
Before you go
Malolos is the capital of Bulacan and the site of the 1898 Malolos Convention, which produced the First Philippine Republic at Barasoain Church — the first constitutional republic in Asia. The convent of Malolos Cathedral served as the presidential palace at the time. The town was burned in 1899 on Emilio Aguinaldo's orders as the Americans approached, but it kept a sizeable number of colonial-era houses, concentrated around Camestisuhan, also known as Pariancillo District, which was declared a Heritage Town in 2001.
Plan around the weather rather than a fixed itinerary. The city is entirely low-lying and floods frequently during the rainy season, and typhoons combined with high tide from Manila Bay make conditions worse; some coastal villages are at risk from rising sea levels. When you orient yourself, note that the Malolos River divides the city: the historic core of Old Malolos lies to the south, Barasoain to the north, and a newer commercial core has grown further north along the MacArthur Highway near the provincial capitol.
Getting there
By road, the North Luzon Expressway (NLEX) connects Malolos with Manila and Angeles, with exits at Tabang and Santa Rita. Use the Tabang exit when coming from Manila and the Santa Rita exit when approaching from the north. The MacArthur Highway also runs north of Barasoain, between Calumpit and Guiguinto.
- By bus: Golden Bee and First North Luzon Transit run buses between Manila and the towns of Paombong and Hagonoy, stopping on MacArthur Highway near the flyover; these pass along Blas F. Ople Diversion Road rather than through downtown Malolos. From Quezon City, minibuses and a Point-to-Point bus terminate at Robinsons Malolos, with the P2P running every 30 minutes from 6AM to 10:30PM. Malolos is also a stopover on some Victory Liner buses on the San Fernando–Metro Manila route, particularly those signed "Inner Cities" that enter MacArthur Highway via the NLEX Tabang exit in Guiguinto.
- By jeepney, van or minibus: These connect Malolos with neighbouring towns including Calumpit, Bulakan and Plaridel, and as far as Hagonoy, Baliwag, Santa Maria and Meycauayan in Bulacan, plus San Fernando in Pampanga.
- By train: No trains serve Malolos — the main line to La Union closed in 1988. Construction is under way on an electrified standard-gauge railway from Metro Manila to Clark International Airport and New Clark City, whose first segment will run up to Malolos, with a station being built in front of the provincial capitol along MacArthur Highway; the line remains under construction.
Getting around
Getting around Malolos is mostly a matter of road-based transport, so plan on buses, jeepneys, UV Express AUVs and tricycles rather than trains. There is no rail service to the city, and the electrified line that will eventually link Metro Manila with Clark is still under construction, with a station being built in front of the provincial capitol along MacArthur Highway. Until it opens, you arrive and move about by road. Fares are cheap and paid in cash on board, they vary by route and mode, and there is no unified ticket or pass system — you pay per ride. Schedules and fares can change, so confirm with the operator or driver before you set out.
Within the city, the Karatig jeepney is the local workhorse: a smaller jeepney, typically around three meters long, that boards roughly eight to ten passengers at the back plus two in front, with longer models taking about ten to twelve. The name comes from karatig, meaning nearby places or barangays, and there are two Karatig routes, one of them running from the downtown to the Provincial Capitol via Paseo del Congreso. Passenger jeepneys, vans and minibuses connect Malolos with neighbouring towns such as Calumpit, Bulakan and Plaridel, and as far as Hagonoy, Baliwag, Santa Maria and Meycauayan in Bulacan and San Fernando in Pampanga. UV Express AUVs supplement these for point-to-point trips, and tricycles are available for hire for short hops the jeepneys do not cover. Some coastal barangays may only be accessible by boat. The historic core around the downtown and Barasoain area is the most rewarding part to explore on foot, but treat walking as a way to cover one neighbourhood and use Karatig jeepneys or tricycles to link areas together. For a private door-to-door trip, a for-hire tricycle is the most reliable option described; for longer or cross-town journeys, arrange your ride through your hotel or a local contact rather than expecting to hail a metered taxi on the street.
Where to stay
Malolos has a small selection of resorts and private resorts rather than a large hotel district, so it pays to decide what kind of stay you want before you book. The Grove Resort and Hideaway sits on Enriquez Street and is the mid-range option of the group. Malolos Resort Club Royale, in the Fausta Compound along MacArthur Highway in Mabolo, is the largest and most established of the choices, with several contact lines and a toll-free number for enquiries.
If you would rather have a quieter, more private base, look at the smaller properties. Adymar Private Resort is on Pulo Street in Sumpang Matanda, and Flores Private Resort and Events Place is on Carmen V. de Luna Street in Longos; the latter also handles events, which is worth knowing if you want a venue as well as a room. All of these are resorts rather than city-centre hotels, so plan on arranging transport to reach the historic sights.
Food & drink
For a taste of Bulacan's culinary heritage, head to Bistro Maloleño in Santo Niño, a casual dining spot that serves heritage Bulacan dishes based on recipes compiled by one of the province's leading food historians. It also offers standard Filipino fare and individual plates, with a tie-up from a neighbouring cafe, Le Jardin. Other options around the city include Fortune Hong Kong Seafood along MacArthur Highway, Tutong's Laksa in Capitol View Park Subdivision, and Lioming's Rice Noodles Corner on Lucero Street, a Thai restaurant. For something quick and familiar, there's a McDonald's branch in the town centre.
When you need a caffeine fix, Malolos has no shortage of cafes. Bo's Coffee sits in San Francisco Square beside Malolos Cathedral, while Coffeenity Co. and 1995 Studio Cafe are both along MacArthur Highway. You'll also find Kape Kapitolyo in Guinhawa, The Ugly Mug Cafe on Mabini, Fifteenth Café along Blas Ople Diversion Road in Bulihan, Kopi Brood Cafe in Bagong Bayan, and Dear Joe. For a fuller meal with drinks, Steak and Wine Unlimited has a branch on MacArthur Highway.
What to see and do
Malolos rewards you with a compact historic core where the story of the First Philippine Republic is written into the buildings themselves. Start at Barasoain Church on Paseo del Congreso, the site of the First Philippine Congress and the inauguration of the First Philippine Republic, where you'll also find the Emilio Aguinaldo Monument and other historical markers in the church patio. Housed in the church convent, the Museo ng Republika ng 1899 tells the story of that republic, while Casa Real, a sixteenth-century building that later served as a Spanish treasury and is now the Museum of Philippine Political History, sits nearby beside Tampoy Bridge. A short distance away, Malolos Cathedral is the seat of the Roman Catholic church in Bulacan, rebuilt in its original style after being burned during the Philippine-American War; its convent once served as Emilio Aguinaldo's official residence, and the century-old Kalayaan Tree stands within the compound. Other landmarks worth seeking out include the art deco Bulacan Provincial Capitol, one of the few provincial government buildings to survive World War II, with the Capitol View Park and its monuments to local heroes in front of it; the pre-war Old Malolos City Hall on Jacinto Street; and the Mudejar-style Santa Isabel de Unggaria Parish Church in Bagong Bayan. On Jacinto Street you can also pass Plaza de la Gobierno Militar, a colonial residence turned military garrison during the First Philippine Republic, though it now houses utility offices and is only open for electricity-related concerns. For events, the Malolos Sports & Convention Center on MacArthur Highway hosts conventions.When to go
Malolos has a tropical wet and dry climate, with two pronounced seasons shaped by monsoon winds and typhoons. The wet season runs from June to November. The southwest monsoon brings strong winds and abundant rainfall from May to September, and this period is generally associated with strong typhoons. Expect heavy rain and stormy conditions that can disrupt travel and outdoor plans.
The dry season lasts from December to May. The northwest monsoon prevails from October to January, bringing moderate and light rains, while the last trade winds from February to April leave the area dry with almost no rain.
Three days in Malolos
Day one: Start in Malolos itself, the heritage core of Bulacan, and orient yourself around the landmarks of the First Philippine Republic. Begin at Barasoain Church, the setting associated with the republic and with Emilio Aguinaldo, then walk the streets of the Camestisuhan and Pariancillo District, the area known as Heritage Town, where the old houses and the Malolos Cathedral give Old Malolos its character. Keep the Malolos River and Manila Bay in mind as you move through the town, and use the MacArthur Highway or the North Luzon Expressway, NLEX, if you are arriving from Manila or Angeles.
Day two: Head out along the MacArthur Highway toward the neighbouring towns of Bulacan. Tabang, Santa Rita, Calumpit, Guiguinto, Paombong and Hagonoy are all within reach, and the Blas Ople Diversion Road gives you another way through the province. If you prefer public transport, the Golden Bee and First North Luzon Transit are the names to look for. Return to Malolos in the evening and take a slow walk near the Malolos Convention area and the river.
Day three: Give the morning to the parts of Malolos you passed too quickly, revisiting Barasoain and the cathedral quarter at an unhurried pace. Use the time to look again at the Camestisuhan and Pariancillo District and the Heritage Town streets, and to follow the Malolos River where it runs through Old Malolos. When you leave, the MacArthur Highway, the North Luzon Expressway and NLEX connect you onward to Manila or Angeles.