Huanuco
Introduction
Huánuco is a city in central Peru and the capital of both the Huánuco Region and the Huánuco District. It is also the seat of the diocese of Huánuco. The metropolitan area spreads across three districts: Huánuco itself, which serves as the head, along with Amarilis and Pillco Marca.
The city sits where the Higueras river meets the Huallaga, one of the largest rivers in the country. That confluence shapes the setting of this Andean city, which serves as a regional and ecclesiastical centre for the surrounding area.
Before you go
Huánuco sits at an elevation of 1,913 metres (6,275 feet), and that altitude shapes everything about the weather you should pack for. The city has a mild semi-arid climate, with warm days and cool nights that stay pleasant throughout the year. Plan for a wide swing between daytime and evening temperatures rather than for distinct seasons.
- Pack layers you can add and remove through the day, since afternoons are warm and nights turn cool.
- Bring sun protection for daytime hours, as a semi-arid climate means plenty of clear, dry weather.
- Keep a warm layer within reach for evenings, when the temperature drops noticeably.
Getting there
To reach Huánuco by air, LC Perú operates one daily flight to Lima. Most travellers arrive overland instead, and the bus terminals cluster around a few central streets. For Lima, direct buses take around eight hours on a partially paved road; G&M Internacional, Transportes Leoncido Prado, Transportes Transamazónica and several other companies run the route. Turismo Central has several daily departures to Huancayo, a journey of around seven hours. From the Control at Acahauyna, colectivos reach Cerro de Pasco in two hours, while combis to La Oroya are less frequent and take three and a half hours; take a taxi from the centre to get there. Buses to Tingo María take around three hours, with many continuing to Pucallpa for a total journey of eleven hours - travel this leg by day, as attacks on buses are not unknown. Transportes Leoncido Prado, Transportes Transamazónica, Turismo Las Brisas and Turismo Central all serve the route. The quickest option to Tingo María is a colectivo, which takes two hours and leaves from several points, most conveniently near the bridge on General Prado. For La Unión, the trip takes five hours by bus or three and a half by colectivo, with several companies on Jr. Tarapacá on cuadra 400; from La Unión you can continue to Huaraz with Paraiso Natural, which runs a bus twice daily taking five hours.Getting around
Huánuco's historic downtown is compact enough to cover on foot, which is the most practical way to reach the central sights, markets and riverside spots at your own pace. The city sits at a moderate elevation in a mild, sunny climate, so walking is comfortable for most of the year, though the strong, clear skies make it worth carrying water and sun protection during the day. There is no rail, metro or tram network, so all local movement is by road, on foot or along the valley's river-adjacent streets.
For short hops, taxis and moto-taxis are plentiful and cheap, and they are the easiest way to reach bus terminals, colectivo departure points and the airport. Hail one on the street or ask your hotel to call one, and agree on the fare before you set off, since metered service is not the norm. Buses, combis and colectivos handle longer journeys: colectivos to Cerro de Pasco leave from the control point at Acahayna, reachable by taxi from the centre, while buses and colectivos to La Unión and Huaraz depart from companies on Jr. Tarapacá. For the quickest connection to Tingo María, take a colectivo, with the most convenient departure point near the bridge on General Prado. Tickets are generally bought directly from the driver or at the company office, so arrive a little early, and if your route continues toward Pucallpa, travel by day.
Where to stay
Huánuco has a range of places to stay, from budget hospedajes to mid-range hotels, with the greatest concentration in the city centre around the Plaza de Armas, where you are within walking distance of the cathedral, the market and most restaurants. Staying near the plaza also puts you close to transport links for day trips to Kotosh and the surrounding countryside.
- Budget hospedajes and family-run guesthouses cluster in the streets around the Plaza de Armas and near the market.
- Mid-range hotels are found in the centre and along the main avenues, with more modern options appearing in the newer districts.
Food & drink
For vegetarian eating, head to Govinda on General Prado, a block from the Plaza de Armas, where a Hare Krishna–run kitchen serves set meals built around tofu, vegetables, rice and noodles.What to see and do
In Huancayo's surroundings, the archaeological site of Kotosh lies about five kilometres west of the city on the highway to La Unión. The site is known for the Temple of the Crossed Hands, named for a life-sized mud molding of a pair of crossed hands that serves as its highlight; the original dates to roughly 2000 BC and is held in Lima's national museum, while a replica remains on site. Kotosh gave its name to the Kotosh Religious Tradition and is counted among the most ancient of Andean cultures, though little is known about it. You can reach the site by taxi or mototaxi, and it sits next to a popular park where taxis often wait on weekends. For organised excursions, look for the two tour agencies near the Plaza de Armas on Jr. General Prado, one of them MYA tours; both run tours of the city, the archaeological site, and Tingo María. Tingo María National Park is famous for the Cave of the Owls, which is also inhabited by oilbirds.When to go
Huánuco has a mild, semi-arid climate, so you can visit comfortably at almost any time of year. Conditions stay dry and sunny across the seasons, which keeps the city and its rivers easy to explore whenever you come.
- Winter: The coolest months, with chilly nights and mild days. It stays dry and sunny, so the weather remains comfortable for wandering the city and walking along the rivers.
- Spring: The warmest time of year, with the hottest daytime temperatures. Days are dry and sunny, and the city's elevation takes the edge off the heat.
Three days in Huanuco
Day one: Base yourself in Huánuco District, in the city of Huánuco, and use the morning to get your bearings around the Plaza de Armas and the streets of Amarilis and Pillco Marca. The city sits in the Andean highlands above the Huallaga, so expect warm days and cooler evenings. If you have arrived from Lima, you will likely have come in on one of the overnight services run by Transportes Leoncido Prado, Transportes Transamazónica or Turismo Central, so take it easy at first.
Day two: Head out to Higueras for a half-day trip and a look at the surrounding countryside. Buses toward Tingo María and Pucallpa, including Turismo Las Brisas, pass through the area, and services along General Prado and Jr Tarapacá can set you up for the day. Keep an eye on the weather, as the Huallaga valley can turn wet without much warning.
Day three: Plan a longer run if you have the time. Routes toward Huancayo, Cerro de Pasco and La Oroya cross high ground, and the Control Acahauyna is a marker on the way. For La Unión, services leave from the city, and for Lima the same operators run back over the cordillera. Pack for cold at altitude and bring a layer you can shed when the sun comes out.