Ayacucho

Introduction

Ayacucho is a department of Peru in the south-central Andes, administered by a regional government and centred on the city of Ayacucho, its capital. The department was known as Huamanga from its creation in 1822 until 1825.

The region was one of the hardest hit in the 1980s during the guerrilla war waged by Shining Path.

Before you go

Ayacucho's recent history shapes how you should approach the city. In the 1980s and early 1990s it was largely under the control of Sendero Luminoso, an extreme leftist terrorist group; the anti-terror campaigns under President Fujimori reduced the group's influence almost completely. That past is worth knowing before you arrive, as it informs the way the city presents itself and the questions you may want to ask.

Once you're there, the Tourist Office sits in the Plaza de Armas, the main square, and is the place to go for orientation and local information.

Getting there

Ayacucho is reached by air or by road. The airport has flights from Lima; small Peruvian airlines can be a bit sketchy, but flying is a good alternative if you don't fancy a rough long bus ride. Daily buses connect the city with Lima on a well-paved road, a journey of around eleven hours that crosses high mountain passes and can make some travellers sick. Daily buses also run to and from Pisco on the same paved road, taking about six hours.

• From Huancavelica: daily buses and colectivos offer three alternatives, though dirt roads may be impassable in the rainy season. The direct route runs by colectivo to Julcamarca, a second colectivo to Lircay and a third to Huancavelica, all on dirt roads; with luck and an early start you can make it through in one day, and basic accommodation is available in Julcamarca and Lircay if needed. A second option goes via Rumichaca and St. Ines: take a morning bus along the main road towards the coast until Rumichaca (paved and in good condition), then catch a bus to Huancavelica on a dirt road, through unique and impressive landscape mostly between 4000 and 5000 m above sea level. A third option is the morning bus to Huancayo, getting off at Izuchaca (8–10 hours) where the dirt road becomes paved, then catching onward local transport to Huancavelica (about an hour). All three work in reverse.
• From Andahuaylas: daily buses run by Molina, Wari and others take at least ten rough hours over a dust road that is partly in very poor condition, but the magnificent scenery more than compensates.

Getting around

Ayacucho is a compact Andean city, and most of what you'll want to see sits within a walkable core. Walking is the most practical way to cover the historic centre, where the churches and religious celebrations are concentrated, and the centre is small enough that many visitors never need a vehicle during the day. Keep in mind that the city sits at high altitude, so pace yourself on hills and stairs, especially in your first days. There is no rail, metro or tram network, so getting around the city and reaching the surrounding region is done by road or by air.

Taxis are widely available and are the easiest option for short trips, airport transfers and outlying attractions; official cabs carry signs on top, and fares within the city are low, making them a cheap fallback when you don't feel like walking. For day trips, hiring a car or a taxi with a driver for a day or a week is a relatively cheap option; self-drive rental requires a minimum age of 25, a current driving licence and a valid passport, and roads in Peru can be uneven and poorly signposted. Coronel FAP Alfredo Mendivil Duarte Airport (AYP) sits close to the city centre and is reached by inexpensive taxi. Long-distance buses leave from several terminals spread around the city but fairly close to one another, with frequent departures day and night; buy tickets at the terminal or directly with the bus company. Daily services run to Lima and Pisco on a well-paved road over high mountain passes, and to Andahuaylas on a partly rough road with magnificent scenery. Routes north and south to Huancayo and Cusco are slower, with delays and dusty roads, and Huancavelica is the most awkward connection, usually made by a chain of buses and minibuses via Julcamarca, Lircay or Rumichaca. Dirt roads may be impassable in the rainy season.

Where to stay

Ayacucho has plenty of budget-friendly places to sleep, and the cheapest options cluster on the road towards the bus station, where you'll find simple but pleasant double rooms for very little, or pay even less for the use of a single bed. Closer to the centre, Hostal La Crillonesa sits one block from the main Mercado and a few streets from the Plaza de Armas on Nazareno 165; rooms come with private bathroom and a double bed, there's a rooftop terrace with a great view, a cafe, cable TV in most rooms and round-the-clock hot water, and the service is friendly. Staying here puts you near the market and the bustling pedestrian-only street that runs past it. Hostal Florida on Jr Cusco 310 is a good option for budget travellers, with nice views from the top rooms and WiFi during the day (more sporadic at other times); note that showers are electric and not truly hot, and breakfast isn't included despite what you may be told over the phone. Some travellers have reported valuables stolen from their rooms here, with owners turning unpleasant when it was reported.

Hostal Tres Mascaras on Jr. Tres Mascaras 194, one block southeast of the Plaza de Armas, is a fairly big hostel with rooms surrounding a courtyard home to caged parrots and budgies; the yard is a bit run down but the rooms are nice, with WiFi, hot water and a simple breakfast on request. Be aware that prices rise sharply during Semana Santa, when you can also contact Leira Figuero at the corner of Jr Callao and Venezuela, who rents a mattress on the floor in a small room with a WC, cold shower and your own key.

Food & drink

Ayacucho's eating is split between the Plaza de Armas and the market. On the plaza itself, the university café occupies the atrium of a colonial building beside the cathedral, while Via Via sits on a balcony overlooking the square opposite the cathedral, good for coffee, safe salads and interesting mains, with excellent views and a frozen naranjada; it draws well-to-do locals as well as the few foreign visitors in these parts, and has free Wi-Fi. A few blocks from the plaza, Magia Negra serves pizza in comfortable, somewhat upscale surroundings and has a foosball table.

At night, street vendors near the plaza sell hamburgers that are a local institution — order the 'triple', a thin patty with egg, hot dog, potato sticks and olive mayonnaise, and ask for it "sin lechuga" (without lettuce). Don't eat too many. In the market and small restaurants, look for Puka Picante (potatoes cooked with beetroot and peanuts) and Papa con Quapchi (potatoes with cheese and herbs). For drinks, the Centro Turístico Cultural San Cristobal, a block and a bit from the plaza on 28 de Julio, is the best spot for caffeinated beverages — it actually has cappuccinos and Americanos — in a cluster of little cafés aimed at tourists and a bit pricier than elsewhere. In the market, right of the big red arc on Jr 28 de Julio, try chicha de manis (peanut-sesame), agua de nipero or manzana (apple).

What to see and do

For a straightforward walk from the city, take bus 13 from the big red arc on Jr 28 de Julio out to Santa Helena or a little further, then drop down to the Watatas river and follow the water back into Ayacucho on foot; the return takes a couple of hours, and at the concrete bridge you can either wait for a collectivo or continue walking to the centre, though that last stretch is a bit far. For a warmer but somewhat dirtier river, catch the collectivo to Muyurina from the Paradero de Quinoa-Huanta and walk back along the water, keeping to the right side and not crossing because of the dogs; always steer clear of the houses. After the bridge the going gets hard on the right, so ask whether you can follow the left side instead, and since the route is long you will eventually have to join the road and flag down a collectivo or hitch-hike.

If you want to get up high, climb the great mountain to the south, to the left of the cross — the path is rough but really nice. Near the Plaza de Armas you will find Willy Del Posa Posa, who runs a tourist agency and proved honest and helpful.

Three days in Ayacucho

Day one: Start in Ayacucho itself, also known as Huamanga, and get your bearings around the Plaza de Armas, the city's central square. Stop by the Tourist Office for orientation, then spend the rest of the day walking the streets and adjusting to the Andean setting. Keep the pace easy on your first day in the Andes.

• Plaza de Armas
• Tourist Office

Day two: Use Ayacucho as your base for exploring the surrounding Andean countryside. Routes from Huancavelica bring you through Julcamarca, Lircay, Rumichaca and Izuchaca, while the road from Andahuaylas passes Molina. If you prefer to stay closer to the city, visit the Wari site, which gives you a sense of the region's pre-Hispanic past.

• Julcamarca
• Lircay
• Rumichaca
• Izuchaca
• Molina
• Wari

Day three: Round off your stay with the city's more recent history, including the Shining Path (Sendero Luminoso) period and the presidency of Fujimori, which shaped Ayacucho's modern identity. If you are heading onward, Coronel FAP Alfredo Mendivil Duarte Airport (AYP) serves the city, and taxis are available for getting around. From Huancayo, the route via Izuchaca is another option for continuing your journey.

• Shining Path (Sendero Luminoso)
• Fujimori
• Coronel FAP Alfredo Mendivil Duarte Airport (AYP)
• Huancayo
• Izuchaca