Salalah
Introduction
Salalah is the capital and largest city of Dhofar, the southern Omani governorate. It sits in the far south of the country, and it is here that you will find the governorate's main urban centre.
Before you go
Salalah's history stretches back two millennia, when its position made it a stop on the frankincense and silk trading routes, and it later served as Oman's capital until the accession of Sultan Qaboos in 1970. Frankincense cultivation and trade continue on a smaller scale today, and the city remains closely tied to the Sultan, who was born here. Because lodging and eating places outside the city are scarce, Salalah works as a base for exploring the wider Dhofar region at any time of year.
Time your trip around the khareef, the summer monsoon that draws visitors in July and August, when nearby wadis fill with water and the heat elsewhere on the peninsula makes the region appealing. Expect occasional street flooding then, and note that strong ocean currents make swimming and diving unsafe during the rains; diving is only possible in the dry season, from October to the end of May, which is also the best period for bird watching. May and especially June are the hottest months, with humidity climbing until the rains arrive in late June or early July. The crowds and rain leave in September while the vegetation stays green. Most residents speak some English, but a little Arabic or Malayalam makes conversation easier. Salalah is a very safe place, though the local style of driving may take some getting used to, and you should never swim at the beaches or let children wander near the water, given the steep drop-off and powerful currents.
Getting there
Salalah is served by several airlines. Oman Air flies from Muscat at least three times a day, and also operates direct international flights from Dubai and Jeddah. Air Arabia flies from Sharjah, and Qatar Airways operates direct flights from Doha. Be aware that the taxi from the airport charges far more than the normal rate.
You can also reach Salalah by road, by bus, or by sea. Driving from Muscat takes roughly twelve hours: the first stretch past Rusayl, Nizwa and other small towns is very scenic, but most of the remainder is barren desert and oil fields, with the only larger settlements being Haima and Thumrait. Travelling at night is usually better than driving in the heat of day, and arriving at night is a must for the city lights seen from the high-altitude entry point. Watch out for renegade dunes, stop whenever you can for food, drinks and breaks, and carry cash as many petrol stations do not accept credit cards. Lodging on the road is not good, so plan your trip so you do not have to sleep on the road. Oman National Transport Company runs buses between the Ruwi station in Muscat and its Salalah station next to the New Souq/Central Market three times daily, and bus transport is also offered by Malatan Trading and Bin Qasim Transport. Cruise ships stop regularly at Salalah Port west of the city, with shuttle buses and taxis available from the port entrance; bring your cruise boarding pass and your Tourist Entry Permit.
Getting around
Salalah has no rail, metro or tram network, so every journey is made by road, on foot or by boat. Parts of the city are walkable, since many places of interest sit close together, and the most comfortable areas for strolling include the city centre, the area near Al Husn Souq, Sultan Qaboos Mosque, and the Corniche and waterfront with their sea and harbour views. During the warmer times of year, however, walking may not be the best idea. Beyond the city, wadis and mountain areas have informal trails that are often rugged and unmarked, and you need a car to reach the trailheads. Dedicated bicycle lanes are limited and cycling on main roads is difficult because of traffic volume and speed; it is better suited to resort compounds or designated parks, and major highways are unsuitable for walking or cycling.
Unmetered Omani taxis operate here, so negotiate the price before getting in, and compare against the ride-hailing app, which can be used to estimate a price but has often worked out more expensive than a regular taxi. Fares can be higher for longer distances out to natural sites, so agree a price in advance. Taxis are convenient for short city journeys and airport transfers, can be found at central locations and transport hubs, and hotel concierges can call one for you; they are also readily available at the cruise ship terminal. Be deliberate about your airport transfer, as the taxi from the airport is reported to be far above the normal rate. Public buses exist but are not efficient for reaching the scattered attractions outside the city centre, and local minibuses run on select routes with stops and fares confirmed by asking locals or drivers. Hiring a car is a popular and flexible option: driving is generally straightforward, with well-maintained roads, clear signage and smooth highways, and 2WD cars are adequate for most sights within Salalah itself. Outside the city, many places of interest lie off road and SUVs are recommended, particularly during the khareef season because of slippery terrain, so book well in advance as rental agencies often run out of vehicles. Keep your tank topped up before heading to remote scenic spots. Tour buses are a common way to explore Dhofar, with local operators running day trips and multi-day excursions to places such as Wadi Darbat, Mughsail Beach, Jebel Samhan and Al Haffa Souq, and some companies offer boat trips for dolphin watching or coastal sightseeing.
Where to stay
Salalah's accommodation scene swings with the seasons. During the annual khareef, when visitors pour in from elsewhere in Oman and the Persian Gulf, the city fills up and it is essential to reserve well in advance. At other times of year, rooms are plentiful and rates are more reasonable, so you can afford to be flexible.
- Budget: Al Hanaa Hotel sits on 23 July St, across from Lulu Hypermarket and within walking distance of downtown.
- Mid-range: Arabian Sea Villas, an Omani-Belgian enterprise on Dahariz Beach near the Crowne Plaza Resort, is adjacent to the coconut groves and includes breakfast and wifi in its rates. Dhofar Hotel on Al Matar St, near Lulu Hypermarket, offers basic accommodation at affordable prices with friendly service. Haffah House, at Al Matar and Ar Robat Sts, has old but decent rooms, a swimming pool, gym and tennis courts, and sits close to the airport and the city centre, with banking and car rental in the same building. Hamdan Plaza Hotel on Al Wadi St, across from Lulu Hypermarket, includes free breakfast and wifi.
- Splurge: Crowne Plaza Resort Salalah in Dahreej is a large property close to the city centre. Hilton Salalah on As Sultan Qaboos St is popular with European visitors and runs a daily shuttle to and from the Gold Souq, though it lies roughly 12 km outside the city. Juweira Boutique Hotel on Taqa Rd in Marina Town looks out on the illuminated artificial Juweira Island and has cafes, lounges, restaurants, a fashion boutique and a children's play area. Al Baleed Resort Salalah by Anantara on Al Mansurah Street is a beach resort with tennis, volleyball and badminton courts, petanque and beach football.
Food & drink
Salalah's eating scene clusters along 23 July Street, where you'll find the widest choice. For Omani cooking, try either branch of Bin Ateeq, a small local chain. Pakistani food shows up at Al Kutaini and Al Ajwa, while Indian kitchens range from the vegetarian South Indian cooking at Annapoorna to the vindaloo at Cascade Tandoori. Lebanese options include Baalbeck, known for its hummus, tum and shwarmas, and Lebanese House. Chinese and Indian-styled Chinese food is available at Chinese Cascade and Chopsticks, and mixed international menus at Hassan Bin Thabit and Khareef Salalah. Familiar fast-food chains are present too.
If you head outside the city, plan ahead: restaurants are few, so pack fruit, juice or sandwiches, and carry several bottles of drinking water since highway stores are scarce. On the road to Mughsayl and its tidal geyser there's an ocean-side cafe. For a refreshing drink, roadside vendors sell fresh green coconut. Alcohol for non-Muslim visitors is served at high-end hotels and at the licensed Oasis Club near the port.
What to see and do
Start your sightseeing in Al Haffa, the old city on the seafront, then head to As Sultan Qaboos Street for the Al Baleed Archeological Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site whose ruins were once the trading port of Zafar, and the Museum of Frankincense Land on its grounds, which covers the history of the port and the region. The Salalah Museum in the Salalah Cultural Center holds a varied collection with sections on regional geology and history, plus a permanent display of Wilfred Thesiger's photographs. The clocktower, Burj an-Nadha, is the city's emblem and is lit up colourfully at night. Religious and historic sites include the Tomb of Nabi Umran, with its long sarcophagus, the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, and the shrine housing the Footprint of Prophet Saleh's Camel; at these, remove your shoes, and women should cover their hair, while the mosque also requires conservative dress covering ankles and wrists. You can photograph the Sultan Qaboos Palace from outside, though it is not open to the public, and you can drive east along Al Bahri Street past traditional Dhofari houses in an older Yemeni style. The Gun Souq is a small open-air market for weapons, from antique rifles to traditional knives and daggers, and is at its best early in the morning. For culture, time your visit for the Salalah Tourism Festival, held during the khareef period and celebrating Dhofari food, music and traditions. From November to April, birdwatchers can bring binoculars to Khawr Salalah, a lagoon in the city that attracts flamingos, ospreys and migratory birds. To get in the water, dive operators based at the city's resorts run guided diving and snorkelling trips and PADI courses, mostly in the waters around Mirbat, though the diving centres close during the khareef. You can also go horseback riding, with beach and sunset rides available.When to go
Salalah's year splits into two very different halves. The dry season is your only window for diving, and it's also the best time for bird watching. Conditions stay dry through these months, though heat and humidity build steadily toward the end of the stretch. May and especially June are the hottest months, with humidity climbing until the rains arrive.
- Khareef: Most visitors come for this rain-fed season in mid-year, when nearby wadis run full of water. Streets occasionally flood, and ocean currents are too strong for swimming or diving, so the crowds are here for the greenery rather than the beach.
- After the rains: The rains and the crowds both leave in September, but the vegetation is still green and hotel prices have started to come down.
Three days in Salalah
Day one: Begin in Salalah itself, the main city of Dhofar and your base for the three days. Because most visitors arrive by air, you will likely land at Salalah airport on a flight from Muscat, Dubai, Jeddah, Sharjah or Doha with Oman Air, Air Arabia or Qatar Airways. Expect Omani Arabic to dominate, though English and Malayalam are widely spoken. Take your time settling in, then spend the afternoon getting your bearings in the city before an early night.
Day two: Devote the day to the surrounding Dhofar region and its frankincense heritage, which is the reason Salalah draws travellers at all. If you are travelling between June and September, expect the khareef: cool, misty and green, a sharp contrast to the heat of the rest of Oman. From October to May the weather is warm and dry. Watch for the monsoon crowds in July and August, when Gulf visitors arrive in force.
Day three: If you have a car, consider a longer drive out of the city. Driving from Salalah towards Thumrait, Haima, Nizwa and on to Rusayl takes you across the interior towards Muscat, a route best broken up over more than a single day. If your time is short, stay closer to Salalah instead. Lodging in the city is straightforward, and you can end the trip with a final look at the frankincense trade that shaped this part of Oman under Sultan Qaboos.