Bawshar
Introduction
Bawshar is one of the provinces of Muscat, in northeastern Oman. It sits between Muttrah to the east and Seeb to the west, and looks out over the Sea of Oman to the north.
If you visit, the province offers two quite different draws: several archaeological sites, and the Qurm Nature Reserve, a Ramsar-designated wetland.
Getting around
Bawshar is a sprawling province of dozens of separate villages and towns, so plan on covering distances by car, taxi or micro rather than on foot. There is no rail, metro or tram network to rely on, and buses mainly connect the main towns and cities rather than serving neighbourhoods in detail. For real coverage of districts such as Al Khuwair, Sultan Qaboos City, Al Ghubra, Ghala or Bowsher Al Qadima, you will generally need your own transport — a tour, a driver-guide or a self-drive rental car. Treat walking as something you do within a destination, such as a mall, museum or beach area, not as a way of moving between districts.
- Taxis are the easiest way around the larger towns. They are white-and-orange, flagged at the roadside, and unmetered, so agree the fare before you set off and be prepared to bargain. Drivers in Muscat generally speak basic English; outside the capital, expect Arabic only. Shared taxis carry three or four passengers who split the fare, but the system is ad hoc and pickup points are best found by asking locally.
- Micros, also called baisa buses, are white-and-orange minivans seating up to around fifteen people. They are the cheapest local option, but routes are unsigned, so ask around or flag one down.
- Inter-city buses are run mainly by the government-run Oman National Transport Company, recognisable by their concrete bus shelters. They are reasonably fast and comfortable, but departures are infrequent and departure points and times can be hard to find.
- Self-driving is described as the easiest way to get around, thanks to an extensive modern road network. Cars are driven on the right. Watch for unlit vehicles at night, sudden lane changes without indicating, livestock such as goats, flash floods after rain, and unmarked speed bumps in towns and villages. Signs reading "Stop when water is at red!" mark flood-prone dips. Penalties are strict, and if you are in an accident, call the police on 999 and leave the vehicle in place until they arrive.
- Muscat International Airport serves the capital area, including Bawshar. There is no dedicated airport rail link or airport bus service, so the realistic options are a taxi, a pre-arranged transfer or driver-guide, or a rental car.
Three days in Bawshar
Day one: Start in Bawshar itself, where the older quarter of Bowsher Al Qadima gives you a feel for the area before you move on. From there, head into Muscat and spend your time around Muttrah, whose corniche and market streets are the classic introduction to Oman. If you want a breather from the city, the Qurm Nature Reserve offers a quieter stretch of coast and wetland, recognised under the Ramsar convention. In the evening, Al Khuwair is a straightforward place to eat and settle in.
Day two: Push west along the coast to Seeb, where the sea and the beachfront give the day its shape. Continue to Al Ghubra and Ghala if you want more of the city's everyday commercial and residential side, or head to Sultan Qaboos City for a different slice of Muscat. Treat the day as a slow loop rather than a checklist, since the distances between these districts add up. For getting around, taxis are widely used; drivers generally speak English as well as Arabic, and shared taxis and micros also run alongside the larger inter city services of the Oman National Transport Company.
Day three: If you have time before your flight, use it well, since Muscat International Airport is your exit point. Self drive cars are an option if you prefer your own schedule, but watch the signs and stop where you are meant to, as penalties apply for traffic offences. Otherwise, keep the final hours simple: a last look at the sea, a meal in Al Khuwair or Seeb, and a calm run to the airport.