Nepalgunj
Introduction
Nepalgunj, also spelled Nepalganj, is a sub-metropolitan city in Banke District, set on the Terai plains close to Nepal's southern border with India, near Bahraich district in Uttar Pradesh. It sits south of Kohalpur and south-west of Ghorahi.
The city took its present shape by absorbing surrounding territory. Udayapur, Bhawaniyapur, Piprahawa, Jaispur, Paraspur, Indrapur, Khaskarkado, Basudevpur, Manikapur and Puraina were added to form the sub-metropolitan city, with Puraini following later. During the nationwide restructuring of local levels, ward no. 23 was detached to Janaki Rural Municipality and a ward of Hirminiya was added in its place.
Before you go
Nepalgunj sits at the centre of Mid Western Nepal, a flat town on the Terai — the northern extension of the Gangetic Plain, known locally as Avadh. Its communities include native Nepalis alongside Madhesi Hindus and Muslims, and it has the highest proportion of Muslim residents of any town in Nepal. The town is connected to the border town of Uttar Pradesh in India, and its bazaar area is busy. The Himalayan foothills are visible only in the distance.
The climate is sub-tropical. April to June brings high temperatures, sometimes extreme. From July to September the monsoon sets in and it becomes very humid and sticky. Winter is usually pleasant when the sun is out, but it can also be foggy and overcast, turning quite chilly though without frost. Several worthwhile destinations lie within reach: the Babai conservation valley is about an hour's drive away, the Karnali river roughly ninety minutes, and Lumbini, the birthplace of Lord Buddha, a five-hour drive.
Getting there
You can fly into Nepalgunj on a direct flight from Kathmandu, a trip of under an hour with several departures daily. By road, you can reach the city from Lucknow in India by car in roughly six hours; the drive crosses a somewhat deserted landscape and the Karnali river, known in India as the Ghaghara, where tea stalls offer a place to stop. From Kathmandu, dozens of buses run daily to Nepalgunj, though only a few offer quality service, and the ride takes ten to twelve hours. Overnight buses also connect the city with Pokhara and Bhairahawa. From Lucknow, you can take a bus to Bahraich on the Nepalese border from Kaiserbagh bus station, then continue to Nanpara and on to Rupadiya, the border market; this route is cheap but time-consuming, so hiring a private vehicle from Bahraich is worth considering. Local rickshaws cross the small, friendly border crossing, and from Nepalgunj there are many buses onward to other parts of Nepal. It is best to make the journey during the day, even though the Nepali immigration office claims to be open around the clock.Getting around
Nepalgunj has no metro, tram or city rail system, and no ride-hailing culture to fall back on, so getting around means buses, minibuses, taxis, rickshaws and your own two feet. Bus and minibus services are the mainstay of local movement, and you will find plenty of buses heading onward to other parts of Nepal, which makes the city a useful staging point for the surrounding region. For longer journeys, Nepalgunj is well connected by road: from Kathmandu there are dozens of daily bus services, though only a few offer quality service, and the ride takes roughly ten to twelve hours, while overnight buses also run from Pokhara and Bhairahawa. The Mahendra Highway runs through Kohalpur, a short distance from the city centre, and the widened four-lane Nepalgunj–Kohalpur highway makes that run easy and quick by road.
For short hops, a rickshaw is the natural choice, and local rickshaws are plentiful around the border crossing and in town; for longer trips, arrange a taxi or a private vehicle, particularly if you are heading out to nearby sites or crossing into India. Walking is a realistic way to cover the immediate area around your hotel, the market streets and the central chowks, but this is a working city rather than a pedestrian resort, so expect traffic, dust and heat for much of the year — walk in the cooler hours and carry water. The only rail element nearby is on the Indian side of the border, where an Indian Railways line reaches Rupaidiha, reached via changes at Gonda, Bahraich and Nanpara. Ranjha (Mahendra) Airport sits north of the city centre and is close enough that the transfer is short; taxis and local transport are the practical options, so plan on a road transfer and agree on the fare before you set off. It is best to journey during the day, and if you are a third-country national, allow time for border formalities.
Where to stay
You will need to arrange your own accommodation, and it is worth confirming your choice directly before you arrive rather than relying on a listing alone.
Food & drink
Nepalgunj's street food is the main draw, with biryani, chaat and sweets sold along the streets. The dish the city is known for, though, is sekuwa — grilled, barbecue-style meat — and the mutton version is the one to try. Shrijana Hotel, Hamro Momo and Gulmeli are among the well-known places for it.
For sit-down meals, you can eat at Kitchen Hut Hotel, Travellers Village (which has both a hotel and a restaurant), Sneha Hotel or Pahuna Ghar. Hotel Batika has a nice swimming pool. The budget end of the market here is limited.
What to see and do
Nepalgunj is a transit town, and its sights are modest and spread out. You can spend time at the Mini Zoo or the water park, both listed among the city's attractions. The Muslim bazaar is worth a wander for its market atmosphere, and the Rapti River offers a quieter edge to the town. The Indian border crossing is a point of interest in its own right, marking the passage south.
- Mini Zoo
- Water park
- Muslim bazaar
- Indian border crossing
- INF
- Rapti River
When to go
Nepalgunj has a sub-tropical climate, and the time you choose to visit shapes how comfortable your trip will be. The pre-monsoon stretch is very hot, with temperatures sometimes climbing high enough to make sightseeing uncomfortable. If you travel then, plan your activities for the early morning or evening and expect the heat to dominate the day.
The rainy season arrives in June and lasts into September. It is less hot than the months before it, but it can be very humid, and wet conditions can affect travel. Winter, by contrast, is usually pleasant while the sun is out, though it can turn foggy and overcast, and on those days it is chilly, with temperatures dropping below what you might expect. Frost does not occur.
Three days in Nepalgunj
Day one: Start in Nepalgunj itself, the main town of Banke District in the Terai, and get your bearings in its busy bazaar streets. The town sits close to the border with India, and its culture reflects that position, blending the traditions of Avadh and the Gangetic Plain with those of Mid Western Nepal. You will find both Madhesi Hindus and Muslims among the local population, and the food and markets show that mix. Spend the day wandering the centre, then head out to nearby villages such as Bhawaniyapur, Piprahawa, Jaispur or Paraspur to see the rural life of the district.
Day two: Use Nepalgunj as a base for the surrounding settlements of Banke District. Kohalpur lies within reach, and further afield you can visit places like Indrapur, Khaskarkado, Basudevpur, Manikapur, Puraina or Puraini. If you want to see the wider region, Ghorahi and the Janaki Rural Municipality are options, as is Udayapur. The Terai landscape here is flat and agricultural, and the villages give a sense of everyday life in this part of Nepal. Return to Nepalgunj in the evening.
Day three: Time your visit with the weather in mind. April to June is hot, while from July to September the monsoon brings heavy rain. Winter is milder and easier for travelling around. If you are heading onward, Bahraich in Uttar Pradesh, India, is a natural next stop given the cross-border links, and Hirminiya is another place in the area. Otherwise, spend a final day in Nepalgunj, revisiting the bazaar and the town's religious and cultural sites before you leave.