Haarlem
Introduction
You will find Haarlem situated at the northern edge of the Randstad and within the Amsterdam metropolitan area. As the capital of the province of North Holland, this city offers you a central location within one of the most populated metropolitan regions in Europe.
Before you go
Prepare for your visit to Haarlem by understanding its dual identity as a historic seat of the Counts of Holland and a modern center for flower bulb exports. You can expect a lively atmosphere in areas known for their historical significance, such as the site of the city hall where you might encounter crowds during the high season. While the town is relatively quiet during the off-season, its growing popularity ensures you will find plenty of options for dining and accommodation.
As you explore the city's heritage, keep these historical contexts in mind:
- The city was a renowned center for Dutch painting during the 16th and 17th centuries.
- The local economy is deeply rooted in flower growing, textiles, shipyards, and engineering plants.
- The architecture reflects a history of rebuilding after major fires destroyed original wooden structures.
Getting there
You can reach Haarlem by train from several nearby locations, including frequent connections from Amsterdam Centraal. If you are arriving at Schiphol Airport, take the train toward Amsterdam Centraal and transfer at Sloterdijk; note that if your train is bound for Uitgeest, Alkmaar, or Hoorn, you must exit the station and walk a short distance to reach the correct platform for Haarlem. Trains also run regularly from Vlissingen, Zandvoort aan Zee, and Hoorn.
Alternatively, you can take the R-net bus line 300 from Schiphol or get off at Wulft/Centrum, which travels along a dedicated lane for much of the journey. If arriving by ferry from Newcastle to IJmuiden, you can take a local bus from the nearby Planetenweg stop to reach Haarlem station. For those who prefer cycling, the ride from the center of Amsterdam is relatively flat and takes roughly an hour to an hour and a half.
Getting around
You can explore the city center on foot, as it is a short walk from the train station. If you prefer not to walk, several bus lines operate between the central train and bus station and the "Centrum/Verwulft" stop. While most local buses are operated by Connexxion, Arriva operates a specific route to Leiden.
You can also experience the city's waterways by taking a boat tour. These cruises depart from opposite the Teylers Museum and offer different experiences, ranging from larger vessels to smaller open boats for smaller groups.
Where to stay
You can choose from various accommodations depending on your preference for atmosphere and location. For a central stay, several options provide convenient access to the heart of the city. Some establishments offer plain but fine rooms with friendly service in the center, while others are situated in historic buildings on the main square, offering small but clean rooms with views. If you prefer more space, you can find spacious suites and deluxe rooms in the historic center, or choose individual apartments located in old houses that feature small kitchens for self-catering.
If you are looking for a more budget-friendly option, consider these alternatives:
- A hostel offering simple, clean private rooms and dorm beds. While it is located outside of the city center, it provides good connections via bus or train.
- A hotel providing basic rooms in a central location.
- A hotel in a historic building where breakfast is included.
Food & drink
You will find a wide variety of dining options scattered throughout the inner city to suit every taste and budget. For a casual meal, some establishments offer simple food at low prices or daily specials, while others provide hearty portions like spareribs, steaks, pasta, or fried chicken. If you are looking for something more specific, you can find tapas, salads served in large bowls, or well-prepared Indonesian dishes set in remarkable surroundings. For a more refined experience, several restaurants offer multi-course menus in historic settings or high-end dining featuring artistically plated food.
The city has a rich brewing history, and you can sample local specialties like Jopen beer, which is even served in a converted church. The drinking scene offers diverse atmospheres:
- A traditional Irish pub with live sessions and a selection of sports.
- A cozy local bar recommended for its atmosphere.
- A venue known as a large space for live music and packed dance nights.
- An old Proof Lokaal featuring jazz sessions and a great choice of beers.
- A cozy coffee bar popular with students and workers.
- Venues where you can watch sports on multiple screens or enjoy blues performances and alternative bands.
What to see and do
Explore the historic centre of Haarlem to discover a wealth of monumental buildings and fine art museums. You can wander through the streets to find various architectural landmarks, including the 13th-century Hoofdwacht and the Dutch Renaissance-style Vleeshal. The Grote Markt serves as the heart of the old city, where you can see the massive Gothic-style Sint-Bavokerk, a prominent landmark for centuries featuring a famous great organ. Nearby, the statue of Laurens Janszoon Coster, known locally as "Lautje," stands as an icon of the city's history in book printing.
The city offers a diverse cultural landscape through its numerous museums and unique sites:
- Teylers' Museum, the oldest museum in the Netherlands, houses a wide collection including paintings by Rembrandt and Michelangelo, along with minerals and antique scientific instruments.
- Frans Hals Museum showcases Dutch Golden Age art, including works by Frans Hals himself.
- Ten Boom Museum provides a look into local history through the story of a family who hid others during World War II.
- The Molen De Adriaan is a restored functional windmill on the banks of the river Spaarne.
- You can visit various hofjes, which are traditional almshouses built around courtyards.
- Other notable sites include the Amsterdamse Poort city gate, the historic Van der Pigge drugstore, and the oldest public park in the Netherlands, Haarlemmerhout.
Three days in Haarlem
Day one, you can explore the heart of Haarlem and experience its unique atmosphere within the Randstad. You might spend your time wandering through the Centrum to soak in the local character of this part of North Holland.
Day two, you can visit Teylers Museum to view its collections. Alternatively, you can take a short trip to nearby Leiden or explore other areas of the region while staying within the province.
Day three, you can travel further afield by train to see different landscapes in Holland. You could head toward the coast or visit other nearby towns to complete your journey through this part of Europe.