Mushin
Introduction
Mushin is a densely built residential district in Lagos, sitting about ten kilometres north of the city core and alongside the main road to Ikeja. Expect a congested neighbourhood of low-quality housing and limited sanitation, so plan your visit with that in mind.
The area has a strong musical reputation: it is where A-list talents such as Wande Coal have risen from. If you are drawn to Lagos music culture, Mushin is part of that story.
Before you go
Lagos is a huge, hot metropolis on the Atlantic coast, built on islands separated by creeks, and it remains Nigeria's economic and financial capital even though it is no longer the seat of government. It is known as Èkó in Yoruba and affectionately nicknamed "Lag", "Gidi" or "Las Gidi". Expect very hot and oppressive weather year round, with a wet season that is overcast and a dry season that is sometimes cloudy. Most people live and most industry sits on the mainland, while the island — especially Victoria Island — has become the main nightlife attraction, with music and clubs that once clustered around Yaba and Surulere. Lagos has become a much safer place to visit than before, with heavy state spending on security, but it pays to be sensible: do not openly flaunt your possessions, especially in public, and be wary of deals or businesses that sound too good to be true, including e-mails soliciting your help. Violent crime against tourists is rare, but stay alert on late-night outings, stick to crowded streets and go out in groups rather than alone. Street beggars and people with psychological disorders are part of the scene; most Lagosians simply ignore anyone asking for money or walk on briskly. Because some police officers are corrupt and inefficient, it is best to stick to places and people you know, and on a first visit avoid going anywhere without a trusted guide. Lagosians are generally nice and friendly, and most will readily give you directions if you are lost.Getting there
Most visitors reach the city by air through Murtala Muhammed International Airport, with flights from major European cities such as Amsterdam, Frankfurt, London and Paris, from Middle Eastern and African hubs including Abu Dhabi, Addis Ababa, Beirut, Cairo, Casablanca, Doha, Douala, Dubai, Istanbul, Johannesburg, Kigali, Libreville, Luanda, Malabo, Nairobi and Sharjah, and direct services from the United States. The city also sits close to the border with Benin. On arrival, expect immigration to be slow, with priority given to Nigerians and ECOWAS passport holders, as well as families with young children and disabled travellers; your arrival card must include a Nigerian address and contact number, which officials may call to confirm you are expected. After baggage collection you pass through customs and agricultural inspections, a health check of your yellow fever card — issued at least ten days before travel — and a final check of your luggage tags. Do not leave the airport before meeting your driver or pick-up, as re-entry is not permitted. Departing can be slow: many international flights leave in the evening, the airport becomes congested after 5PM and traffic around it is heavy, so allow at least four hours before your flight. Check-in involves having your bags weighed, passport details checked, and luggage searched by agriculture, customs and antiquities agents, who may confiscate indigenous trinkets. Immigration, security and passport control are housed in extensions at either end of the departures hall, and there are pay-access and Priority Pass lounges after passport control, including Oasis and Skye Lounge, plus the free Gabfol lounge where food and drinks are paid for separately. A final passport, yellow fever and boarding pass check precedes boarding. Rail is an option too: the newer higher-speed Lagos–Ibadan Railway links the city with Ibadan via Abeokuta, long-distance trains from Ibadan call at Lagos-Ebute Metta station, and Lagos Terminus near Iddo handles local services and slower long-distance routes. The Lagos Blue Line runs from Marina in the central business district towards Okokomaiko, with stops at Lagos Marina, National Theatre, Orile Iganmu, Suru Alaba and Mile 2. Several bus companies, among them Agofure, God Is Good Motors, ABC Transport, Ifesinachi and The Young Shall Grow, run daily services from major cities nationwide and West African destinations, with Oshodi bus terminal the largest hub for intercity buses; buses are comfortable but journeys are long.Getting around
Mushin sits on the mainland, so you reach and navigate it through the wider Lagos transport system. Street signs appear on street corners, which makes locating places and landmarks easier than many visitors expect, and it is for the most part safe to move about during the day. If you are unfamiliar with the city, it is sensible to be accompanied by a guide who knows the routes. If you go out at night, go in groups and stick to known routes.
- BRT: High-capacity red or blue buses run on dedicated lanes along major corridors, regulated by LAMATA, and are among the most reliable and affordable ways to move around, especially at peak times. Cash is not accepted; you need a compulsory Cowry Card, bought at major terminals such as Mile 12, Ojota, Yaba, TBS and Ikorodu, with fares deducted automatically by distance. Corridors include Mile 12–TBS/CMS via Ketu, Ojota, Maryland, Anthony, Fadeyi, Yaba, Oyingbo and Iddo; Ikorodu–TBS/CMS; and Oshodi–Abule Egba via Iyana Ipaja. Buses generally run from about morning to evening on weekdays, with slightly shorter hours on weekends and public holidays, and waits are longer outside peak hours.
- Danfo: Smaller yellow minibuses ply all routes from the mainland to the island and within the mainland. The system can be confusing for a newcomer, so ask a local for help; fares are fixed and rise with distance.
- Taxi and ride-hailing: With older cabs, negotiate the price before you enter and pay on arrival. Newer licensed cabs use metered or fixed fares and generally accept cash. Ride-hailing services also operate.
- Car and driver: If you are not on a tight budget, hire a car and driver, usually available from major hotels and the airport; you will be expected to haggle. Talk to the drivers and pick one you can communicate with best, since they can tell you about the places you pass. Renting a car is another option for longer stays, with rental offices in the city.
- Okada: Motorbike taxis are quick and cheap for short distances but dangerous, and are forbidden to ply after dark. They are banned in Victoria Island, Ikeja, Apapa, Yaba and certain other mainland districts.
- Rail and ferry: The Blue Line links the mainland to Marina on Lagos Island, and the Cowry Card works on it. Lagos Ferry Services runs scheduled routes between Lagos Island, Banana Island, Mile 2 and the mainland.
Where to stay
Lagos divides into the mainland, Greater Lagos and the islands, with three major bridges — the Carter Bridge from Iddo Island, the Eko Bridge and the Third Mainland Bridge — linking the island districts to the mainland across the lagoon. The two major urban islands are Lagos Island and Victoria Island, separated from the mainland by the channel that forms Lagos Harbour and connected to each other by creeks and bridges.
For visitors, aim for a hotel on Victoria Island, since many of the city's tourist attractions are there. Lagos has plenty of hotels and more are being built, and you can often find a four-star hotel for the price of a three-star one.
Food & drink
Lagos has restaurants of several types, from international hotels to local fast-food chains. For a sit-down meal, Sherlaton has outlets in two places: one on the mainland at Hotel Newcastle in Antony Village, and another in VI at Hotel Cumberland on Adeola Odeku St.
- Mr Bigg's — Nigeria's answer to McDonald's, found all over the city. It serves western fare such as hamburgers, but the Nigerian delicacies like jollof rice and moin moin are more popular. Look for the big 'B' in red and yellow.
- Tantalizers — another leading Nigerian fast-food chain, with around 25 outlets in Lagos. Expect staples such as meat pies, scotch eggs, chicken, jollof rice, fried rice, cake and hamburgers.
When it comes to drinking, you can always find places to chill with friends and family, and the city's drinking spots are affordable.
What to see and do
Lagos rewards the effort you put into seeing it, and there is plenty to fill your time. Markets are scattered across the city and are usually safe during the day, though a visit can be very tiring. When you want a break from the crowds, head for one of the several parks, where you can enjoy some greenery and nature; some are ticketed while most are free to enter, especially those built by the Lagos State Government.
- Relax on the beaches: there are over a dozen in Lagos, with Lekki, Alpha, Eleko and Akodo to the east, and Tarkwa Bay, Ogogoro Island, Atlas Cove, Lighthouse beach, Ilashe Beach, Agaja Beach and Badagry beach to the west. More beaches lie outside the city, in places like Badagry. They are good for picnics and barbecues, and inside the city, Lekki is about as good as it gets.
When to go
Mushin is very hot and oppressive all year, so plan for heat and humidity whenever you visit. The main choice is between the wet and dry seasons. <\- **Wet season:** Overcast skies and heavy rainfall that accumulates over these months. Expect persistently hot, oppressive conditions and frequent rain, so pack accordingly and be ready to work around downpours. - **Dry season:** Sometimes cloudy rather than consistently clear, but still very hot and oppressive. Rain is far less frequent than in the wet season, making this the easier time to be outdoors.Three days in Mushin
Day one: Arrive at Murtala Muhammed International Airport, the gateway to Lagos, with direct flights from European cities such as Amsterdam, Frankfurt, London and Paris, and from Middle Eastern and African hubs including Abu Dhabi, Addis Ababa, Beirut, Cairo, Casablanca, Doha, Douala, Dubai, Istanbul and Johannesburg. From the airport, head into Mushin, a dense, energetic neighbourhood where street life runs loud and late. Expect Yoruba to be the language you hear most, and expect Lagosians to move with a pace that takes some getting used to.
Day two: Give the day to Mushin itself. Wander its streets, watch traders and residents go about their business, and let the neighbourhood's character set your rhythm rather than a checklist. If you want a change of scene, Yaba and Surulere are within reach, and Victoria Island offers the polished, waterfront face of Lagos. The contrast between these areas is part of what makes the city legible.
Day three: Use your last day to connect Mushin to the wider city. Ikeja is the state capital and another anchor point, while the nicknames Lag, Gidi and Las Gidi are how residents refer to the Lagos they know. Wande Coal's music is a fitting soundtrack for the drive. Because the city is vast and its moods shift from block to block, leave room for the unexpected rather than filling every hour.