Oaxaca travel guide

Oaxaca, Mexico

By the Travel Wiki editorial team

Oaxaca

Introduction

Oaxaca de Juárez, usually called simply Oaxaca, is the capital of the Mexican state of the same name and its largest city. It sits in the Centro District of the Central Valleys region, in the foothills of the Sierra Madre at the base of the Cerro del Fortín, with the city spreading out to the banks of the Atoyac River.

The city is also the municipal seat of the surrounding municipality of Oaxaca, the state's most populous. Beyond the centre, the neighbouring municipalities of San Jacinto Amilpas, Santa Lucía del Camino and Santa Cruz Amilpas are more densely settled than Oaxaca itself.

Getting around

Oaxaca de Juárez has no rail, metro or tram network, so getting around happens by road: on foot, by bus, by taxi or by shared van. The historic center is compact and largely flat, and for most of a short trip you will simply walk. The Centro Histórico is flat and about 1.5 km across, most of it coverable on foot in roughly twenty minutes, and landmarks sit close together — the Zócalo to Mercado 20 de Noviembre is about a three-minute walk, to Santo Domingo about eight, and to the Jalatlaco neighborhood about twelve. Macedonio Alcalá, running from Santo Domingo to the Zócalo, is car-free and pedestrianized, and García Vigil is semi-pedestrian. Sidewalks are mostly intact, though cobblestones are uneven and worth watching at night, so wear shoes that handle them and carry a light for evening walks. Do not attempt to walk to Monte Albán: the route follows the road, has no sidewalk in parts, and is exposed to harsh sun.

Two quirks shape navigation in the Centro. Buildings are built right up to the sidewalk, forming continuous corridors with no sightlines to landmarks, and most destinations can be reached by traveling along a maximum of three or four streets. Streets also frequently change names after a few blocks — 20 de Noviembre becomes Porfirio Díaz one block up, and 5 de Mayo turns into Armenta y López — so confirm the street name for the specific area you are heading to. For longer hops, BinniBus is the government-run modern bus system, with air-conditioned, route-numbered buses, wheelchair ramps and marked stops; you need exact change for the machine near the door, as drivers handle no money. Standard private city buses are the older network — louder and more chaotic, but reliable and cheap, with fares paid to the driver, who carries change. You must signal with your arm to stop; drivers do not stop otherwise. Colectivos, the maroon or dark red shared taxis and minivans with destinations displayed in the windshield, run fixed routes between the city and valley towns, leave when full, and are often the only practical way to reach day-trip sites; departure points vary by destination, so tell the driver your destination when you board and they will redirect you if you are in the wrong place. Mototaxis are banned inside the city proper but operate in outlying towns and craft villages, often bridging the last stretch from a colectivo drop-off. Regular taxis have no meters, so agree on the price before you get in, and taxi ranks are more reliable than flagging; Uber is not available for passenger transport, and DiDi is available but unreliable, with frequent cancellations and coverage that drops outside the Centro, Jalatlaco and Xochimilco. The center is flat and bikeable, with rentals available in the Centro and expanding infrastructure, but watch for cobblestones, careless drivers and unmarked speed bumps. Rental cars are not recommended: parking is difficult in the Centro, streets are narrow, and a car is unnecessary for the city itself. Carry small bills — cash is the norm for buses, colectivos, mototaxis and taxis.

When to go

Oaxaca's climate shifts sharply with altitude, so what you pack depends on where you're headed. Most of the state, outside the ranges along the Veracruz border that see rain all year, gets the bulk of its rain in summer and early fall. Expect wet conditions then, both in the temperate highlands and in the hot, humid lowlands.

Three days in Oaxaca

Day one: Start in the Centro District, where the Centro Histórico spreads out from the Zócalo and the Mercado on Noviembre. Walk the pedestrian streets around Santo Domingo and Jalatlaco, following Macedonio Alcalá and García Vigil, and notice the Porfirio Díaz-era buildings along the way. Sidewalks are busy, so take your time. In the afternoon, head to the ruins at Monte Albán in the Central Valleys, then return to the city for a meal of Mexican food in the Centro.

Day two: Use the BinniBus or standard colectivos to reach the outer neighbourhoods. San Jacinto Amilpas, Santa Lucía, Camino and Santa Cruz Amilpas sit beyond the centre, and the Atoyac River runs through the valley. The Sierra Madre and Cerro Fortín rise around the city, so plan for warm, dry conditions and carry water. Return to Centro in the evening for another Mexican meal.

Day three: Spend the morning around Juárez and the streets near Mayo, Armenta and López, where the Centro District's character shows in its buildings and streets. Do your last wandering on foot, then settle in the Centro Histórico for a final Mexican meal before you leave Oaxaca.

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