Texcoco de Mora

Introduction

Texcoco de Mora sits in the State of Mexico, roughly 25 km northeast of Mexico City, and serves as the seat of the surrounding municipality. In pre-Hispanic times it was a major Aztec city on the shores of Lake Texcoco, and after the Conquest it briefly ranked second in importance only to Mexico City before its prominence faded and it took on a more rural character.

Over the colonial and post-independence periods most of Lake Texcoco was drained, so the city no longer stands on the shore and much of the municipality lies on former lakebed. Evidence of the area's Aztec past keeps surfacing: numerous archaeological finds have been made here, among them the 125-tonne stone statue of Chalchiuhtlicue, discovered near San Miguel Coatlinchán and now held at the Museum of Anthropology in Mexico City.

Getting around

Texcoco de Mora has no metro, tram or light-rail network of its own, so plan on walking in the historic center and using buses, combis and taxis for anything beyond it. El Centro is the most walkable part of the city: the Cathedral, the Juanino Monastery and the market life sit close enough together to cover on foot in a morning or afternoon. Outside the center, walking becomes less practical, since the city spreads across many sectors and communities; for outlying points such as the archeological sites of Texcotzingo and Huexotla or Chapingo Autonomous University, take a bus or taxi.

• Buses are the backbone of public transport between Texcoco and Mexico City. The main connection runs from Mexico City's TAPO terminal to a stop in Texcoco known as "Fase 2," operated primarily by Autobuses de Texcoco, with Autobuses Teotihuacan also serving the route roughly hourly. Departures run throughout the day, the trip is direct and takes roughly 40 minutes, and fares are inexpensive and paid on board in cash, so carry small denominations.
• Within Texcoco and its surrounding communities, local buses and combis cover the routes the intercity buses do not. Routes are identified by destination rather than by number in a way a visitor can easily decode, so ask at your lodging or in the center for the specific route toward your destination.
• Taxis cover distances within the city and reach Texcoco from Mexico City in roughly half an hour in normal conditions, at considerably more than the bus — a reasonable choice with luggage, on a late arrival, or when splitting the fare. BlaBlaCar Mexico lists the Mexico City–Texcoco route a couple of times a day at a price comparable to the bus, but availability is limited, so arrange it in advance rather than spontaneously.
• Within the city, agree on the fare before getting into a street taxi, or use a ride-hailing app where available to avoid negotiation.
• Texcoco has no airport of its own serving commercial traffic; from Mexico City's airport, make your way to TAPO and board the direct bus there, or take a taxi door to door.
• The city has a history of road blockages and protests, including blockades of main roads in the historic center and of the Texcoco-Lechería highway, so allow flexibility and ask locally before setting out on a day when something is happening.

Three days in Texcoco de Mora

Day one: Start in El Centro, where the Cathedral and the Juanino Monastery anchor the historic core, then use Texcoco as your base for the rest of the stay. Buses run from Mexico City's TAPO terminal, with Fase, Autobuses and Autobuses Teotihuacan among the departures, and BlaBlaCar Mexico is another way in. Within Texcoco, routes are served by taxis, and Lechería is a useful reference point on the approach.

• El Centro, Cathedral, Juanino Monastery
• Arrive via TAPO, Fase, Autobuses, Autobuses Teotihuacan, BlaBlaCar Mexico, Lechería

Day two: Head outside the city to Texcotzingo and Huexotla, both within reach of Texcoco and best visited with your own transport or a taxi. The Chapingo Autonomous University is another stop in the area, and the day gives you the region's Aztec and Hispanic layers, with Lake Texcoco and the Conquest as background to what you see.

• Texcotzingo, Huexotla, Chapingo Autonomous University
• Context: Aztec, Hispanic, Lake Texcoco, Conquest

Day three: Visit San Miguel Coatlinchán and its link to Chalchiuhtlicue, then turn to the Museum of Anthropology for the wider picture, including evidence of the area's long settlement. Round off in Texcoco de Mora itself, in the State of Mexico, before heading back toward Mexico City.

• San Miguel Coatlinchán, Chalchiuhtlicue, Museum of Anthropology
• Texcoco de Mora, State of Mexico, Mexico City