Cabo San Lucas

Introduction

Cabo San Lucas, often called simply Cabo, is a resort city at the southern tip of the Baja California peninsula, in the Mexican state of Baja California Sur. Along with neighbouring San José del Cabo, it forms the area known collectively as Los Cabos.

Before you go

Getting there

Most travellers reach Cabo San Lucas through San José del Cabo International Airport, the busiest airport in the region, located just outside San José del Cabo. Domestic carriers serving Los Cabos include Aereo Calafia, Aeroméxico, Señor Air and Volaris, while international carriers include Alaska Airlines, American, Copa, Frontier Airlines, United, Air Transat and WestJet.

From the airport, the Ruta del Desierto bus is the cheapest way into Cabo San Lucas, with stops just outside Terminal 1 for domestic arrivals and Terminal 2 for international arrivals; the buses are clean, modern and air conditioned, though luggage space may be limited, and the trip takes roughly half an hour to an hour depending on traffic. Private van transfers suit families or groups with large baggage and cost less than taxis, and shared shuttle vans run to major hotels. Book private transfers at least 48 hours ahead, since most cancellation policies use that window; Los Cabos Airport Shuttles handles shared or private service, and CATCO SJD office offers private-only service. Be wary of touts inside the terminal offering free transportation, breakfast, cruise tickets, excursions or cash in exchange for attending a resort "tour" — this is a timeshare promotion with a hard sales pitch that can consume up to four hours, and any agent claiming to represent your transport company is lying, as your transportation will always be outside the terminal. Cruise ships call frequently but must anchor or moor offshore, so passengers are ferried to shore; allow for that ferrying time when planning independent tours so you can return to your ship on schedule. Regional buses run frequently from La Paz, San José del Cabo and other nearby cities via Autotransportes Águila, long-distance routes are served by Autobuses Baja California, and the bus terminal sits on Carr. Todos Santos north of the city centre.

Getting around

Getting around Cabo San Lucas relies entirely on road transport, boats and your own two feet — there is no rail, metro or tram network of any kind. Downtown is genuinely walkable: the marina area, the waterfront promenade, Medano Beach and the historic centre of San José del Cabo are all easy on foot, and the marina promenade passes bars, restaurants, shops and the connected Puerto Paraiso and Luxury Avenue malls. The Tourist Corridor itself is not walkable, since resorts and attractions are spread out along the highway, so you'll need a vehicle for that stretch. Heat and sun are serious, so mornings and late afternoons are better for longer walks and shade is limited; use normal tourist precautions after dark and stick to busy, well-lit areas. Locals advise against walking to The Glass Factory — take a taxi or Uber instead.

The main public transport option is the Ruta del Desierto bus, which runs between Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo along the Tourist Corridor and also serves Los Cabos International Airport. The buses are purple and orange, they're the cheapest way to cover longer distances, and they run frequently throughout the day. Pay in Mexican pesos only — bring small bills and change, and don't rely on US dollars or large notes. There are designated stops along the corridor, but drivers often let passengers off where requested and buses can be flagged down along the highway; quality varies, with some newer and air-conditioned and others older with open windows. In Cabo San Lucas the northbound stop is near Puerto Paraiso Mall on the Transpeninsular Highway, and in San José del Cabo look for the southbound stop near Tacos Rossy or in front of the Chedraui Selecto grocery store. For longer regional trips, Autotransportes Aguila provides frequent departures from La Paz, San José del Cabo and other nearby cities, while Autobuses Baja California handles long-distance routes; the Cabo San Lucas bus terminal sits north of the city centre on the road toward Todos Santos.

Taxis are plentiful and available around the clock, serving the main parts of Cabo, the corridor and the airport. They're colour-coded — blue or green in Cabo San Lucas, red and yellow in San José del Cabo — and there are no meters, so agree on the fare before you get in. They're cash only, with both Mexican pesos and US dollars accepted, though pesos usually get you a better rate, and since some drivers attempt to overcharge tourists, settling the price in advance matters. Uber operates in both Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo and is generally cheaper than taxis, with fares that fluctuate and tend to be higher in the evenings and at night. Uber can drop off at the airport but cannot pick up there, since rideshare pickups are not authorized, and some resorts restrict Uber pick-ups at the lobby, so you may need to meet your ride at the entrance or outside the property. There is also friction between the taxi union and Uber, and there have been reports of police stopping Uber cars.

Renting a car is a good option if you're staying in a villa or planning day trips beyond the two towns, and agencies with familiar international names operate at the airport and in both towns. Highway 1 along the Tourist Corridor is well maintained but busy, and local drivers tend to drive fast; use GPS since signage is limited, allow room when merging, avoid late-night driving especially on weekends and holidays, and stay off rural highways after dark because of wandering livestock. For something more unusual, you can rent motorcycles and scooters — helmets are provided — and ride the so-called "Cabo Loop," a paved route that passes through San José del Cabo, Los Barriles and Todos Santos before returning to Cabo San Lucas. On the water, water taxis and glass-bottom boats are the standard way to reach El Arco and some of the beaches.

From Los Cabos International Airport, just outside San José del Cabo on the Transpeninsular Highway, your main options into Cabo San Lucas are the Ruta del Desierto bus — the cheapest, with stops just outside Terminal 1 and Terminal 2 (at Terminal 2 the stop is upstairs on the Departures level), clean and modern air-conditioned buses that may have limited luggage space, running roughly every 15 minutes from early morning until late evening, with the ride taking about an hour to an hour and a quarter depending on traffic and stops. To return to the airport, catch the bus near Puerto Paraiso Mall in Cabo San Lucas. Private transfers by van are the most convenient choice for families or groups, especially with large baggage, and cheaper than taxis, with shared shuttle vans to major hotels also available; book in advance, ideally at least 48 hours before arrival, since most cancellation policies use that window. Taxis are available at the airport with fares negotiated before you ride, and Uber can drop you off there but cannot pick you up. Beware of touts: at the airport you may be approached with an offer of free transportation in exchange for your time on a "tour" of a resort, including breakfast, or with free tickets to cruises and excursions, or even cash. This is a timeshare promotion — you'll be asked for a deposit, and while you may receive the promised gifts if you attend, the presentation can take up to four hours and comes with a hard sales pitch for what is generally a very overpriced timeshare. These agents sometimes claim to represent your transportation company, which is a lie; your transportation will always be waiting outside the terminal, never inside. Cruise ships call at Cabo San Lucas very frequently and all anchor or moor offshore, so passengers are ferried to shore — if you plan independent tours, factor in the ferrying time at both the start and the end so you can be sure of returning to the ship on time.

Where to stay

Where you sleep in Cabo San Lucas depends largely on how close you want to be to the bars and marina. Budget travellers have a few solid options in the centre: Estancia Real Los Cabos is a charming, bohemian place with a communal kitchen, BBQ and a small rooftop pool, a few blocks from the beach, marina and drinking establishments, and its open-air palapas include one with a private jacuzzi. Seven Crown Express & Suites sits between a gas station, a liquor store and a strip club, across from the hospital, and is the closest hotel to the bars. Hostal Casa Coyotito, near the Cabo Church, is cash only, accepts US dollars, rents bikes, and offers both dorm beds and private rooms.

Mid-range choices cluster around El Medano and the marina. Royal Solaris Los Cabos is a Mexican hacienda-style resort with unlimited meals and beverages across five restaurants, dinner shows, three heated pools, a spa, fitness centre, tennis and basketball courts, beach volleyball, a kids club and a mini water park. Marina Sol Resort offers one- to five-bedroom condos a block from Medano Beach and the marina, two blocks from downtown. Riu Palace Cabo San Lucas has deluxe rooms, some with hydro-massage bathtubs and terrace jacuzzis, and all-inclusive dining and sports. Hotel Tesoro looks onto the marina, lighthouse or the Sea of Cortés from your balcony, with internet, fitness centre, spa, a large pool and all-inclusive packages. For a splurge, Fiesta Americana Grand Los Cabos Golf & Spa has private balconies over its private beach and the Sea of Cortez, five pools, the SOMMA WineSPA and a championship golf course; Pueblo Bonito Blanco is an oceanfront, adults-only boutique resort on the Pacific side; and Marquis Los Cabos offers ocean-view suites and casitas with private pools. At the ultra high-end, The Resort at Pedregal features villas with private plunge pools on a private beach near downtown, while Las Ventanas Al Paraiso, Esperanza, One and Only Palmilla and the adults-only Le Blanc Spa Resort Los Cabos offer expansive ocean-view suites, spas and golf.

Food & drink

For inexpensive eating, the city centre and the area around El Medano Ejidal near the beach are your best bets. In the centre, Tacos Marissa on 20 de Noviembre draws locals with steak tacos and a spread of condiments that includes whole roasted jalapenos, caramelized onions, guacamole and salsas in every colour. You'll also find The Crazy Lobster and Maro Shrimp House on Calle Miguel Hidalgo, Guss Tacos on Blvd Lazaro Cardenas, El Pescador on Zaragoza, and John's Place on Blvd. Paseo de la Marina. Near the beach, try Jarro, 1 & Only Taco or Tacos Gardenias.

Mid-range options lean heavily on Mexican and seafood cooking. Restaurante Mi Casa serves a taste of old Mexico in a friendly, funky room where street vendors are allowed to peddle at your table, while El Coral, the oldest restaurant in Cabo, sits at the west end of the main street with good prices and good food. La Casa Country is known for its fajitas and a line dancing show, Pancho's Restaurant claims the largest collection of tequilas anywhere, and Mariscos de Mazatlan offers good-value seafood with an open-air palapa. Alexander's Restaurant on the marina blends French-influenced Swiss cooking with tropical and Mediterranean touches, and La Dolce serves standard Italian fare and pizza at dinner only. For a splurge, Nicksan offers some of the freshest sushi around, and Edith's is another higher-end choice. Drinking is a major part of the scene: Mango Deck Beach Club on Playa El Medano goes for a spring-break atmosphere, while The Office next door is a more adult setting with tables in the sand. El Squid Roe is loud and touristy, Cabo Wabo is famed for its rock and its occasional owner performances, and Slim's Elbow Room claims to be the world's smallest bar. Elsewhere you'll find Uno Mas for margaritas, The Sandbar for cold Pacificos on the beach, Rooftop 360 for panoramic views, and sports-focused spots like The Usual Suspects and Happy Ending Cantina.

What to see and do

Start with the coastline, which gives Cabo San Lucas much of its character. Land's End is the signature sight: a cluster of rock formations carved by wind and sea, with good views and photo opportunities. At low tide you can walk along Playa del Amor (Lover's Beach) for a better look at the eroded passageway known as the Arch of Poseidon, and watch for Los Frailes, two rock islets frequented by sea lions. Inland, the Church of San Lucas (Iglesia de San Lucas) is almost 300 years old and retains many original features, while the Cultural Center (Casa de la Cultura) has a tall mirador tower, gardens, and views over all of Cabo. From January to March, whales arrive offshore and many boats run watching trips; they are especially abundant in early March.

On the water, scuba diving is a draw because you can see the sandfalls below the surface, and the calmer option is a day at Lover's Beach or one of the city's many romantic restaurants. Surfers head for the beaches along the east cape road, which pick up southern swells and are reached via the coastal road toward Cabo Pulmo; Shipwrecks Beach is a summer favourite. If you would rather stay dry, the Cabo Submarine offers a semi-submersible, air-conditioned way to see the fish and reef life from the marina. Other operators run parasailing, wave runners, kayaks, snorkeling and sunset cruises out to Lovers Beach and El Arco, while surf lessons and tours with hotel pick-up and lunch are also available. Cabo is a major sport-fishing destination, where the meeting of the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of Cortez creates nutrient-rich water for marlin, sailfish, tuna, dorado and wahoo; charters range from open pangas to large luxury yachts. Golfers will find courses across the area, in both Cabo San Lucas and San Jose del Cabo, most with desert landscapes and ocean backdrops. Cruises include a reef snorkeling and whale-watching trip with breakfast and lunch, and a sunset jazz and wine sail on a catamaran. On land, guided ATV and mountain-bike tours run through sand dunes, desert, mountain and beach, and buggy tours climb into the Boca de la Sierra range past cacti and dry river beds to a freshwater pool. The Cabo San Lucas Glass Factory lets you watch the centuries-old art of glass blowing.

When to go

Cabo San Lucas has a hot desert climate, and it is cooler and drier than nearby San José del Cabo. Winter brings the coolest sea temperatures of the year, so swimming is cooler but still possible, and this is the driest stretch, with little rain and generally clear desert conditions. Summer warms the sea to its peak, making the water warm for swimming; the town stays cooler than San José del Cabo, and local summer thunderstorms usually miss it, so rain is uncommon.

Hurricane season is the main thing to plan around. September is when hurricanes can bring heavy rain for long periods, as Hurricane Odile did in 2014 with widespread damage. Otherwise the month remains hot and desert-dry.

Three days in Cabo San Lucas

Day one: Base yourself in Cabo San Lucas and get your bearings in the Main Town, where the streets are busy and the mood is Mexican and relaxed. Wander through Old Town for a sense of how Cabo grew from a quiet Baja California Sur outpost into the resort destination it is today. Later, head toward the marina and the edge of the Pacific, where El Arco marks the tip of Baja California and the meeting point of the Pacific and the Sea of Cortez.

• Start in the Main Town and Old Town
• Walk the marina area toward El Arco
• Keep the first day loose to adjust to the heat

Day two: Take the Corridor north along Federal Highway toward San Jos and the wider Los Cabos area. The Corridor links Cabo San Lucas with San Jos, so you can move between the two at your own pace. Expect warm, dry conditions for most of the year, with the coolest months bringing relief from the summer heat. If you want a change of scene from the Main Town, San Jos offers a quieter, more historic feel.

• Drive or ride the Corridor between Cabo San Lucas and San Jos
• Spend the afternoon in San Jos
• Plan around the heat rather than fighting it

Day three: Use your last day for the water and the wildlife around the tip of Baja California Sur. Boats leave from Cabo San Lucas for El Arco and the surrounding waters, where the Pacific meets the Sea of Cortez. If you are flying out, Los Cabos International Airport sits between Cabo San Lucas and San Jos, reachable by the Corridor and Federal Highway. Airlines serving the airport include Aeroméxico, Volaris, Alaska Airlines, American, Copa, Frontier Airlines, United, Air Transat, WestJet, Señor Air and Aereo Calafia, with domestic and international routes from across Mexico, North America and Europe.

• Take a boat out toward El Arco
• Leave buffer time for the Corridor on the way to Los Cabos International Airport
• Check your airline and terminal before departure