Zomba

Introduction

Zomba sits in southern Malawi, in the Shire Highlands. It is the country's former capital, and that history shapes what you'll find as you move through the city.

Getting there

Daily buses connect Zomba with Blantyre, about an hour away, and with Lilongwe, a journey of five to seven hours. Once in town, a tarmac road runs from the centre up to the Ku Chawe Inn at the top of the plateau.

If you don't fancy the roughly 1.5-hour uphill hike, taxis are the best way up; you should be able to haggle a fare each way. Motorbike taxis are a cheaper alternative but less comfortable and more dangerous. Take a number for your taxi driver if you want to be driven back down, though the walk back is beautiful and strongly recommended — it's quicker downhill on the tarmac. Large trucks also serve the remote villages on the plateau, descending and ascending several times a day. To go up, wait by the roadside away from the very centre of Zomba, near the police station and prison. To go down, stay near the Ku Chawe Inn and ask the curio boys when the last truck left, leaving yourself plenty of time to catch a lift.

Getting around

Zomba is compact and easy to navigate, with minibuses running frequently around town as the mainstay of local public transport. There is a taxi rank on the main Blantyre road, the most reliable place to find a cab, and motorbike taxis offer a cheaper but less comfortable and riskier alternative. Several car hire companies in town offer a reasonable range of saloons and 4x4s of varying quality and price; if you drive yourself, carry your licence, since police roadblocks are frequent and you may be stopped several times in a day for a cursory check of the vehicle. Daily buses connect Zomba with Blantyre and Lilongwe if you are arriving from elsewhere in Malawi.

Walking is a genuine option, particularly on the plateau: the tarmac road from town up to the Ku Chawe Inn takes around an hour and a half to climb, and the downhill return is quicker and strongly recommended for the scenery. On the plateau itself, local guide boys are generally reliable and very knowledgeable, leading you to waterfalls, streams, dams and viewpoints over Zomba town and southern Malawi; they also sell crystals, small curios and berries from the mountains. Because the plateau is remote and rarely properly explored, it is very easy to get disoriented in the forest, so ask at your accommodation to recommend a guide. Taxis are the easiest way up if you don't want to hike — agree the fare in advance and ask your driver for a contact number to arrange the trip back down. Large trucks also make the ascent and descent each day and you can sometimes catch a lift: wait by the roadside away from the very centre of town, near the police station and prison, to go up, and near the Ku Chawe Inn to go down, asking the curio boys when the last truck left and leaving yourself plenty of time.

Where to stay

Zomba divides its accommodation between the town itself and the plateau above it, and your choice depends on whether you want to be near the centre or up where the views are. In town, Pakachere is a backpackers' place run by local people, not far from the city centre at the end of the golf course, with a bar, restaurant, cyber bar, hot water and wifi, plus dorm beds and camping. Also in town you'll find Annie's Lodge with single and double rooms and a Globe wifi hotspot, Peters Lodge a short distance from downtown with single and double rooms, and Casa Rossa on Mountain Road, which has a handful of rooms and camping.

On the plateau, the Sunbird Ku Chawe Inn is clearly signposted from Zomba town and sits at the top with stunning views. Zomba Forest Lodge is a well-run, friendly place with a fantastic chef; all its rooms are en-suite with hot running water, and there's a garden looking down towards Zomba town and a residents' lounge with a library and a log fire in the evenings, with dinner and breakfast included. For a budget option, the Trout Farm has log cabins sleeping two in single beds, hot showers, and paths around the plateau passing by the camp; no food is available there, but the Ku Chawe Inn is a short walk away. It can be fairly chilly at night on the plateau, so wrap up.

Food & drink

Zomba's eating scene mixes traditional Malawian cooking with a handful of places that cater to travellers. For a taste of local food, the traditional menu at Hotel Masongola is worth seeking out, and the chicken kawawa is singled out as an excellent dish, though expect it to be a little expensive. Annie's runs two kitchens on Mulunguzi Road: the downhill spot near the National Statistics Office serves reasonably priced lunch specials such as rice, nsima and stew, while the uphill location toward Masongola offers a similar menu alongside a casual outdoor bar area and facilities for meetings and conferences.

If you want Italian food, head for Casa Rossa on the road to the Plateau, which also works as a wifi hotspot. Up at the top of the Zomba Plateau, the Sunbird Hotel has a Western restaurant and bar with magnificent views over the town, plus a buffet Sunday lunch and barbecue. Back in town, Domino's is a bar and pizzeria signposted from the centre, just off the main road toward the plateau; service can be a little slow, but it shows live sport with a projector on a wide screen.

What to see and do

Zomba Plateau is the centrepiece of the area, and the waterfalls are the highlight — Williams Falls in particular. Near the Ku Chawe Hotel you'll find a large model of the plateau that helps you get your bearings before setting out. For sweeping views across Southern Malawi, head to the top of Chawe mountain, or to Queens View or Emperors View.

• Climb Chawe mountain — a good hike that's possible in about an hour if you're up for it.
• Visit the viewpoints for the views across the south of the country.
• Seek out the man-made and natural dams.
• Visit the waterfalls — and swim under them.
• Play a round at the small golf course and driving range on your left as you head out of town on the Lilongwe road.
• Ask about the swimming pool at the school, which is sometimes open to the public.

Three days in Zomba

Day one: Start in Zomba itself, getting your bearings along Mulunguzi Road and Mountain Road, where several lodges and guesthouses give you a base. Settle in at one of them — Pakachere, Annie Lodge, Peters Lodge, Casa Rossa, Hotel Masongola, Ku Chawe Inn or Zomba Forest Lodge are among the options — then take a walking orientation around town. In the evening, eat at one of the local restaurants; Italian cooking is available alongside Malawian dishes.

• Base yourself along Mulunguzi Road or Mountain Road
• Walk the town centre to get oriented
• Choose between Malawian and Italian food for dinner

Day two: Head up onto the Plateau, where the Sunbird Ku Chawe Inn sits near the edge and the air turns cool and misty. Walking trails lead through the forest and past the Trout Farm, and the views over the Shire Highlands open up on clear mornings. Because the plateau is high, bring a layer — it can feel chilly compared with the town below.

• Walk the plateau trails and visit the Trout Farm
• Expect cool, misty conditions on the plateau
• Return to Zomba for the night

Day three: Use your last day for the wider area. Motorbike taxis and local taxis make it easy to reach trailheads and viewpoints around Zomba. If you have time, Blantyre and Lilongwe are reachable for onward travel, but a slower day around the forest and the town's streets rewards you just as well before you leave the Shire Highlands.

• Use motorbike taxis or taxis to reach trailheads
• Spend the day around Zomba's forest and streets
• Plan onward travel to Blantyre or Lilongwe