Port Louis
Introduction
Port Louis is the capital of Mauritius and the country's financial and political centre, administered by the Municipal City Council of Port Louis. The city lies mainly in the Port Louis District, with a small western part extending into the Black River District.
Before you go
Port Louis is the capital of Mauritius and the island's best shopping destination, but it is not a beach resort. Most overseas visitors who come here are businesspeople, while tourists and even locals tend to head for the beaches, nature and hills elsewhere on the island. The upside is that the city is not overly touristy and, apart from rush-hour traffic jams, it keeps a small-town feel.
Expect a city shaped by both French and British rule, from the French colonial era through to independence. Old Port Louis is largely a "French" city, since the British left much of the French-built town and its administration intact; sidewalk decorations, parks and many buildings are remnants of that era. The Aapravasi Ghat, by contrast, dates mainly from the British period and is a ruined complex where Indian indentured labourers arrived in the 19th century, a site of real importance given that most Mauritians today have Indian ancestry. Crime rates have fallen and there is police presence and camera surveillance around tourist areas, but some spots in town, such as the Citadel, remain unsafe.
Getting there
Most visitors arrive at Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam International Airport, just southwest of Mahébourg, which has flights from major airports in Europe, eastern and southern Africa, the Middle East, and South, East and Southeast Asia. From the airport you can reach Port Louis by rental car, taxi or bus (route 198). If you drive yourself, head north-west and follow the signs for "Port-Louis"; the city sits on the opposite side of the island, roughly a two-hour drive away.
Port Louis has two bus stations. Buses to and from northern and eastern towns such as Trou aux Biches, Grand Baie and Pamplemousses use Immigration Square, northeast of the central market, while services from southern and western places including Mahébourg, Curepipe and Quatre Bornes arrive at Victoria Square in the south of the city. Schedules are loose, but buses are frequent and you will rarely wait more than 15–20 minutes; the first usually leave around 6 AM and the last around 6 PM, though city buses run until 8 PM. The harbour is mostly for freight, but ships of the Mauritius Shipping Corporation carry passengers from Madagascar and Réunion.
Getting around
Central Port Louis is compact enough to explore on foot: the main attractions sit within walking distance of one another, so you can string together a day of sightseeing without a vehicle. Streets are laid out in rectangular grids and many are one-way, which can make navigation confusing at first, and the narrower roads fill with pedestrians and heavy traffic in the busiest parts of the centre. If you are staying outside the centre, the Metro Express light rail connects the suburbs to the city, running daily from early morning until late evening at intervals of mostly 12 to 15 minutes.
Two bus stations serve the city: Immigration Square, also known as Gare du Nord, northeast of the central market, for northern districts and towns such as Trou aux Biches, Grand Baie and Pamplemousses; and Victoria Station, in the south, for eastern and southern areas and the Plaines Wilhems district, including Mahébourg, Curepipe and Quatre Bornes. Inter-city buses also stop elsewhere in Port Louis and serve nearby suburbs such as Plaine Verte, Vallée-des-Prêtres, Pailles, Plaine Lauzun and Cité Vallijee. There are no published schedules, but buses are frequent and you will rarely wait more than 15 to 20 minutes; the first depart around 6 AM and the last around 6 PM, though city buses run until 8 PM, and express and air-conditioned services cost more than standard ones. Taxis are readily available for short hops and are inexpensive, a little more at night, but avoid them during the morning and afternoon rush hours. Driving is not the best way to get around the city itself, as traffic can be a little chaotic; if you arrive by car, park at the marina or your hotel, and note that street-side parking is allowed for two hours at most. Renting a car is a good idea for trips to other parts of Mauritius, with international companies such as Hertz and Europcar available in the capital.
Where to stay
Port Louis spreads its places to sleep across Chinatown, the area around the Champ de Mars racecourse, and the Caudan waterfront, so your choice of neighbourhood shapes your stay as much as your budget does. In Chinatown you'll find the budget end of the market: a small hotel on Jummah Mosque Street, reached by walking through a tunnel from the street, with air conditioning, television and phone in the rooms but bathrooms that leave a lot to be desired, and a backpacker-oriented place on Dr. Edouard Laurent Street.
- Mid-range: a hotel on Frère Felix De Valois Street sits right next to the horse race track, while the Tandoori Hotel on Jemmapes Street, beside the Victoria Square bus station, is noisy by day and quiet at night, with comfortable but windowless rooms and air conditioning in the pricier ones.
- Splurge: the newer Le Suffren Hotel and Marina at Le Caudan Waterfront has smaller-than-average rooms but a pleasant atmosphere and an excellent bar and restaurant; the Labourdonnais Waterfront Hotel is a large luxury option on the same waterfront with well-equipped rooms, huge bathrooms, good views, a fitness centre, pool and business centre; and Le Saint Georges Hotel on St Georges Street, opposite the French embassy, offers clean rooms with modern amenities, a decent breakfast, a pool, bar and restaurant.
Food & drink
Mauritian cooking brings together Creole curries, influences from across Africa, Southeast Asia and India, and seafood that has never been frozen or flown in. For snacks, look for samosas and gâteaux piments, and head to China Town for Chinese shops and restaurants, though most places there serve lunch only and close in the evening. Stalls at the market sell fruit and snacks, and at the seafront Mystic Masala serves Indian food such as samosas and masala dosa, plus lassi or alouda, a cold milk-based Mauritian drink. Le Calife on Edith Cavell Street offers Creole and Indian dishes in a pleasant setting, with halal biryani as the house specialty. For something more substantial, First Restaurant in Chinatown serves traditional Cantonese food from a large menu and suits groups, while La Bonne Marmite has Creole, Indian and Chinese dishes and friendly staff. Namaste at Le Caudan Waterfront is a fine-dining Indian vegetarian restaurant focused on North Indian food, where the balcony tables are the most sought after. The Courtyard is a European-style restaurant built around a patio with indoor dining as well, serving local seafood and Australian steaks. On the waterfront, Black Steer is mostly steaks with a few vegetarian options and views of the ocean, La Boussole offers lighter local and Mediterranean dishes with a terrace, and Yuzu serves Asian fusion, including dim sum platters from East and Southeast Asia with French or Mauritian twists. To drink, try Phoenix Pale Ale, known locally as spider beer, or the island's cane rums, commonly mixed with cola and ice. Keg and Marlin Pub is an English-style pub on the waterfront, and Sunset Café has a pleasant ambiance and good views of the port.What to see and do
Port Louis rewards you with a compact historic core where you can walk between monuments, markets and places of worship. At Aapravasi Ghat, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, you can trace the story of the indentured labourers who arrived from India between 1849 and 1923, an immigration depot whose legacy shapes the identity of the island. Nearby, the Citadelle offers a sweeping view over the whole city from its hilltop perch, while the Champs de Mars, a racecourse founded in 1812, hosts horse racing between May and September, usually on Saturdays. The Jummah Mosque, built in 1853, provides a calm courtyard with an old Indian almond tree, and St Louis Cathedral stands amid the busy city centre. For culture, the Blue Penny Museum holds the famous Post Office stamps, and the Natural History Museum displays an exhibit on the extinct dodo. Wander through Chinatown for traditional Chinese goods and restaurants, or take a quiet stroll along Old Council Street, one of the few car-free lanes, to admire the old architecture. At the Caudan Waterfront you can shop for souvenirs, catch a film, play arcade games, or eat at the food court, and in the evening the small casino offers roulette, poker, black jack and slot machines. The Port Louis Theatre, constructed in 1822, stages performances in French and Creole English along with jazz and classical music. To see the races from above, climb to the Citadelle. The National Library of Mauritius is a good place to explore Mauritian literature, and local food tours let you sample the island's street food and top-tier restaurants. Place d'Armes is peaceful in the evening, making it the best time to sit among the colonial buildings and statues.When to go
Port Louis has a tropical savanna climate, so the year splits into a wet season and a dry season. From December through April, expect the wettest stretch of the year, when every month brings heavy rain and the heat turns muggy. This is also the hottest period, so plan for frequent downpours and humid conditions if you visit then.
- Wet season (December–April): The wettest and hottest time of year, with frequent rain and muggy heat.
- Dry season (May–November): Markedly drier, and the more comfortable time to be outdoors.
- Mid-year: Brings the coolest conditions of the year, with a mild dip in temperatures.
If you want to spend your days outside exploring the city, aim for the drier months, and especially the cooler spell at mid-year.
Three days in Port Louis
Day one: Start your time in Port Louis by getting your bearings in Old Port Louis, where the city's French and British colonial layers are most visible. Visit The Aapravasi Ghat, the UNESCO site tied to the arrival of Indian indentured labourers, whose descendants make up much of the Mauritian population. Wander to Victoria Square, then head up to the Citadel for a view over the capital and the harbour. In the evening, eat at a street stall or casual restaurant in the city centre.
Day two: Use Port Louis as a base for a day trip. Buses run from Immigration Square to Pamplemousses, home to the botanical garden, and onward to Grand Baie and Trou aux Biches on the north coast. Alternatively, head south to Curepipe or Quatre Bornes in the central plateau, or further to Mahébourg near Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam International Airport. Schedules are frequent but can be slow, so plan to leave in the morning.
Day three: Spend your last day exploring the markets and waterfront of Port Louis, then take a bus to Black River District on the west coast for a change of pace. If you have time before your flight, the trip to the airport from the city takes you through the centre of the island. Crime is a concern in some parts of Port Louis, so keep your belongings secure and stick to busy areas after dark.