Ulan Bator
Introduction
You will find Ulaanbaatar situated in north central Mongolia, nestled within a valley along the Tuul River. This capital city sits at a high elevation where you can experience some of the coldest temperatures of any capital city in the world.
The history of this location dates back to 1639 when it began as a nomadic Buddhist monastic center. While the settlement changed locations many times over the centuries, it established its permanent home at its modern site in 1778.
Before you go
Prepare to experience a city defined by its distinct layers of history, where you can witness traditional nomadic culture, Soviet-era architecture, and modern skyscrapers all within a short walk. The landscape reflects a deep past, situated in the Valley of the Golden Cradle near ancient royal tombs and the birthplace of Genghis Khan. You will encounter cultural remnants of the mobile monastery era, such as wooden-fenced ger districts and traditional clothing, alongside the more recent influences of the Soviet period and the rapid expansion of the 2000s.
Navigating the city involves understanding its unique layout:
- Peace Avenue serves as the main thoroughfare for shopping and dining.
- The Ikh Toiruu (Great Ring Road) defines the city center, with the affluent southern portion featuring luxury apartments along the Tuul River.
- The northern area contains ger districts and leads toward the Zuslan, a summer vacation zone characterized by forest scenery and rustic houses.
Getting there
You can reach the capital by plane via Chinggis Khaan International Airport, which handles all domestic and international flights. To reach the airport from the city center, you can choose between public transport buses, taxis, or a dedicated airport shuttle. While some higher-end hotels provide their own shuttle services, shared taxis and private taxis are also available for your journey to the terminal.
For those traveling by train, long-distance journeys are possible from destinations between Moscow and Beijing along the Trans-Mongolian line of the Trans-Siberian Railway. You can also reach the city via shorter-haul trains from Chinese border towns. If you prefer to travel by bus, routes from Russia, the west, north, and south typically arrive at the Dragon Terminal, while buses from China and the east arrive at the Bayanzurkh Bus Station. For those arriving by car, following the paved roads from the Russian, Chinese, or Mongolian borders provides a straightforward route into the city.
Getting around
Navigating the city requires relying on landmarks rather than street names, as local residents rarely use them for navigation. You should seek directions that reference major landmarks and descriptions to find your way. Key thoroughfares include Peace Avenue, which runs west-to-east past Sükhbaatar Square; Chinggis Avenue, running north-to-south before veering toward the airport; and Seoul Street, which heads west from Chinggis Avenue.
You can choose from several modes of transport depending on your needs:
- Taxis are readily available on the street. To avoid being overcharged as a foreigner, you can carry a written note with the amount in tögrög to show the driver before departing. Alternatively, you can use dispatch services that offer English-speaking operators or mobile apps to request a ride to your location.
- Buses operate on a widespread network including municipal buses and slower electric trolleybuses. You will need a U card, available at various shops and kiosks, to pay for these fares by touching the card to a reader upon entry.
- Walking is a viable option within the compact city center where bilingual signage is common. However, navigating the outlying ger districts requires the use of a map app.
Where to stay
You can find a wide range of accommodations in Ulaanbaatar, from budget-friendly guesthouses to high-end hotels. If you prefer a more authentic Mongolian experience without a long trek into the countryside, consider staying at a ger homestay with a herder family outside the city where you can participate in daily life such as milking cows or chopping wood. For those seeking a central location, several guesthouses and hostels offer convenient access to Sükhbaatar Square and local landmarks.
- Gana's Guesthouse offers rooms set in spacious gers on an airy porch overlooking downtown.
- Oasis Guesthouse provides lodging in spacious gers located in a garden and features an onsite café serving Western food.
- Petite Marmotte features rooms decorated in traditional Mongolian style with homecooked meals available from the resident chef.
- Sunpath Hostel, Town Yard Hostel, and UB Guesthouse provide central locations with various amenities like breakfast or kitchen access.
- For a more upscale experience, options include the Royal House Hotel near shopping centers or the Blue Sky Hotel and Tower, which features a lounge with views of the city.
Food & drink
You can enjoy a wide variety of Mongolian, Asian, and Western cuisines throughout the city. For a taste of local tradition, look for canteens and coffee shops serving staples like buuz (meat dumplings) and khushuur (fried dumplings). If you have dietary restrictions, numerous high-quality vegan and vegetarian options are available, including plant-based versions of traditional dumplings. You can also find international chains such as KFC, Round Table Pizza, and Cinnabon, or visit specialized establishments for authentic Mongolian cuisine featuring roasted sheep head and dried meat soup, Halal Indian and Pakistani dishes, or Mediterranean fare.
The city offers a range of dining atmospheres, from casual university cafeterias and Korean-style convenience stores to upscale restaurants with elegant decor. For those seeking a more refined experience, you can find high-end Japanese cuisine, Mexican-Indian fusion, or jazz-themed bars featuring international dishes and live entertainment. If you are planning for a long trek into the countryside where fresh produce is scarce, consider enjoying several hearty meals in the city before you depart.
The local nightlife is active, particularly on Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday nights. You can find clubs featuring electronic music and various bars serving beer and vodka. Be mindful of local regulations regarding alcohol service times and the monthly prohibition on alcohol sales. When heading out at night, it is advisable to travel in a group to navigate the busy club scenes safely.
What to see and do
Explore the spiritual heart of the city at Choijin Lama Monastery, a complex featuring five temples and five arched gates that showcase Buddhist architecture and religious art. You can view the sculpture of the Choijin Lama and an embalmed mummy in the main temple, while the Yadam and Amgalan Temples house rare artifacts by the sculptor Zanabazar. Alternatively, visit Gandantegchinlen Monastery, one of the few sites spared during the 1930s purges, where you can attend morning services.
Immerse yourself in Mongolian history through a variety of museums and galleries:
- The National Museum of Mongolia features artifacts spanning thousands of years, including petroglyphs, Turkic monuments, and personal possessions of Genghis Khan.
- The Bogd Khan Winter Palace Museum showcases 17th to 20th-century art, including thangka paintings and gilded bronze sculptures.
- The Chinggis Khaan National Museum covers the broad sweep of imperial history from tribal kingdoms to the era of Chinese influence.
- For a different perspective, the Natural History Museum houses a collection of dinosaur fossils found in the Gobi Desert, while the International Intellectual Museum features traditional Mongolian puzzle toys and logic games.
- Art enthusiasts can visit the National Art Gallery of Mongolia for modern works or the Fine Arts Zanabazar Museum for Buddhist art dating back to the 17th century.
Wander through the city's public spaces, starting at Sükhbaatar Square, where you can see equestrian statues and a seated statue of Genghis Khan. For a panoramic view of the city, head to the Zaisan Memorial, a large Communist-era monument on a hill featuring a massive Buddhist statue at its base. You can also find various public art pieces throughout the streets, including Soviet murals and unique statues located near the State Department Store.
When to go
You can experience a wide range of conditions depending on the season, from extreme cold and intense air pollution during the long winter months to mild summers with occasional heat. During the deepest winter, you will face dry, frigid temperatures while heavy air pollution blankets the city from evening until mid-morning as residents burn coal for warmth. This pollution is most severe in the northern ger districts, while the air remains clearer toward the south.
If you prefer more favorable conditions, spring and late winter offer significantly lengthening days and much clearer air starting in early March. Summer provides extensive daylight with mild nights, though you should be mindful of heat stress and sunburn during the hotter days. As autumn transitions into early winter, temperatures drop sharply toward sub-zero levels and the seasonal cycle of air pollution returns in November.
Three days in Ulan Bator
Day one, you begin your journey in Ulaanbaatar by navigating the city's landmarks. You can explore the area around Sükhbaatar Square and walk along Peace Avenue to experience the local atmosphere.
Day two, you can travel toward the Tuul River or visit the Golden Cradle. These locations offer a different perspective of the Mongolian landscape beyond the urban center.
Day three, you prepare for your departure from Ulaanbaatar. You can arrange transport to reach Chinggis Khaan International Airport or utilize local transit options like taxis to reach your next destination.