Taunggyi travel guide

Taunggyi, Myanmar

By the Travel Wiki editorial team

Taunggyi

Introduction

Taunggyi is the capital and largest city of Shan State in Myanmar, and it also serves as the administrative seat of Southern Shan State. It sits in the eastern mountains of the country at an elevation of 4,712 feet above sea level, a position that gives the city its pleasant and cool climate.

What sets Taunggyi apart from many other cities is the way it is laid out: rather than spreading across a valley floor, it is built directly along the mountain ridges. Expect cooler air and ridge-top views as you make your way around.

Getting there

You can reach Taunggyi by express bus, and tickets are easy to buy at car ticket sale centres, which are usually found in markets. Several express companies serve the route, among them JJ, Elite, Taung Paw Thar, Shwe Taung Yoe and Shan Ma Lay. Fares depend on how far you are travelling to reach Taunggyi. The express itself does not pick you up, though some companies arrange a small van or car to take you to the express gate. At the gate, show your passport to the person in charge, then board and enjoy the ride.

Taunggyi has no airport of its own. The nearest one is at Heho (HEH), which has frequent domestic flights from Yangon, Mandalay and Nyaung U (Bagan).

Getting around

Taunggyi is a compact town built along mountain ridges, so the easiest way to get around is on foot. Expect to walk up and down rather than on flat ground, and note that the altitude keeps the air fresh and the climate pleasant, though nights can be quite cool, so bring a light jacket or sweater for the evening. English is not widely spoken, so carry a hotel card with the address written in Burmese to show drivers or passers-by if you need help, and carry cash, since cards are generally accepted only at major hotels. When visiting temples, remove shoes and socks and cover your shoulders and knees.

Within the city, a network of small passenger buses, locally called "hilux," connects different wards and suburban areas such as Ayetharyar; there is no ticketing scheme or travel pass, so you simply pay as you go. Taxis and tuk-tuks, including the local three-wheeled taxis known as "thoun bein," are the main local options, but meters are rare, so agree the fare before you set off. Taunggyi has a conspicuous lack of taxis relative to its size, rental bike services are not readily available, and ride-hailing is not dependable, so arrange transport through your hotel or agree it directly with a driver rather than counting on summoning a ride at any moment. For a flexible day of sightseeing, a car with a driver hired at a day rate is a practical choice.

Where to stay

Downtown Taunggyi has plenty of hotels, and rates are generally not expensive. The exception is during the Tha Zaung Dyne festival, also known as the Fire Balloon festival, when visitors come from all over the country and prices rise sharply. Book well ahead if your trip coincides with the festival, or expect to find little available.

Food & drink

Taunggyi is home to two main ethnic groups, the Shan and the Pa Oe', and you will notice the difference when you eat: many Pa Oe' wear traditional black costumes with cloths wrapped around their heads, both for tradition and warmth in the cold climate. Pa Oe' food is not well known among visitors, but Shan noodles are, and they are worth seeking out not just in Taunggyi but anywhere in Myanmar you find them.

For drinking, try the green tea. It is served free at almost every tea shop, restaurant and monastery, and you can drink as much as you like and ask for more when it runs out.

What to see and do

Taunggyi's signature event is its annual Fire Balloon festival, held over one week near the beginning of November. Through much of the day, hot air paper balloons several metres long, shaped like various animals, are launched to float over the town — though they sometimes combust on take-off, which is a fairly common occurrence. In the evening the carnival atmosphere builds with more traditionally shaped balloons carrying cargoes of sweets and fireworks. It is popular with locals but draws hardly any foreigners, and you should be aware that hotel prices rise sharply during the festival week.

The market is the other main draw. You can buy Shan noodles and Burmese sweet tea cheaply, and CDs and VCDs are inexpensive and plentiful. Much of the market's character comes from the many Pa-O women, recognisable by their distinctive headscarves, who sell fresh produce and inexpensive tea from the Shan hills.

When to go

Taunggyi has a humid subtropical climate, so plan around two broad seasons rather than four. The dry season runs from December through March, bringing the mildest temperatures of the year and scarce rain. December to February are the mildest months of all, though nights turn quite cool, so pack warm layers for after dark. This is the most comfortable stretch for getting around.

April through November is the long summer wet season, with frequent rain across many months. Temperatures stay very warm throughout, so days feel hot and humid alongside the rainfall. Expect wet conditions to shape your outdoor plans during this stretch.

Three days in Taunggyi

Day one: Base yourself in Downtown Taunggyi, the commercial heart of Southern Shan State, and use it as your starting point for the days ahead. Several bus lines run from Yangon, Mandalay, Nyaung and Bagan, and Heho (HEH) is the nearest airport. Within the town, taxis and shared vehicles make getting around straightforward, and English is less common than Burmese, so a few words go a long way. For your first evening, settle in at one of the local restaurants such as Shan Ma Lay or Ngar Hta Minn Nel and try Shan dishes.

Day two: Head out to Ayetharyar and the surrounding countryside of Shan State. Taunggyi sits in hill country, so expect warm days and cool evenings depending on the season. If you are here around the Fire Balloon festival, plan your day around it, as it draws visitors from across Myanmar. Book your transport in advance, as no seats may be left on popular routes.

Day three: Spend your last day around Taunggyi itself, visiting Tha Zaung Dyne and the local markets. Several guesthouses and hotels, including Golden Fish Hotel, JJ Elite, Taung Paw Thar and Shwe Taung Yoe, are available if you need to extend your stay. Shan, Pa Oe and other communities give the town its character, and the mix of Burmese and English spoken varies by place. Fares for onward travel to Heho, Yangon, Mandalay, Nyaung or Bagan can be arranged before you leave.

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