Antsiranana travel guide

Antsiranana, Madagascar

By the Travel Wiki editorial team

Antsiranana

Introduction

Antsiranana, known as Diego-Suarez until 1975, sits in the far north of Madagascar and serves as the capital of the Diana Region. The city's dual name reflects its history, and you'll still hear the older one used.

Before you go

Antsiranana sits at the northern tip of Madagascar and is still widely called Diego-Suarez, so expect to see both names on maps, signs and timetables. Check your government's travel advisories before you set out, particularly if you plan to visit remote beaches on your own.

Be wary of overly friendly strangers who approach you, as they may be criminals. Patronising sex work is treated seriously here and can lead to blackmail, arrest and years in prison.

Getting there

Antsiranana sits far from the capital, and the overland journey from Antananarivo covers 1108 km, taking around two days by taxi-brousse. A stopover in Antsohiny, 424 km south of Antsiranana, breaks up the trip. Cotisse Transport runs daily services from its base on Route de la Pyrotechnie, at the corner with boulevard de l'Amiral Miot about 2 km south of the city centre; the Antananarivo run also takes around two days, and you can break the journey at Ambanja for Nosy Be, though you still pay the full fare to Antananarivo.

By air, Arrachart Airport (DIE) receives flights from Antananarivo, Nosy Be and Sambava with Tsaradia, part of Madagascar Airlines, while EWA airlines flies in from Dzaoudzi on Mayotte. Air Madagascar has a booking office on Rue Sourcouf. A few cruise ships also dock periodically, particularly Aida and Norwegian vessels.

Getting around

Antsiranana has no rail, metro, tram or traditional city bus network, so you get around on foot, by bajaj or by taxi. The bajaj — a brand of tuktuk, also called an auto rickshaw or tricycle — is the workhorse for short trips around the city and the most straightforward way to cover moderate distances. Agree the fare before you set off and carry small notes and coins so you can pay exactly. Real taxis, usually older-model Renaults, are considerably more expensive and make most sense when you want a private, direct ride, for example with luggage or when a tuk-tuk isn't available; settle the price with the driver before departure. There is no mention of ride-hailing apps serving the city, so plan on flagging a taxi or bajaj in the street.

Walking is a genuine option in the centre and the best way to get a feel for the place, but it helps to know which neighbourhood you're heading for — the city is organised into a large number of distinct quarters, among them Cap Diego, Place Bazary, Grand Pavois, Avenir, Lazaret Nord and Sud, Mangarivotra, Bazarikely, the Tanambao quarters, Mahatsara, Soafeno, Cité Ouvrière, Ambohimitsinjo, Morafeno, Manongalaza, Ambalavola, SCAMA, Anamakia and Tsaramandroso. The climate is hot year-round, with a wet season from December to March; in the wet season, shorter walks and more tuk-tuk rides are the sensible approach. For longer or intercity journeys, taxis-brousses are vans, similar to jeepneys, that wait until full of passengers and then depart on designated routes — they leave when they fill up rather than on a timetable, so build in waiting time. Cotisse Transport, on Route de la Pyrotechnie at the corner with boulevard de l'Amiral Miot, about 2 km south of the city centre, runs daily services; note that if you want to get off at Ambanja for Nosy Be, you still pay the full Antananarivo fare. From Arrachart Airport, no dedicated shuttle or bus service is described, so arrange your transfer into town by taxi or bajaj on arrival, or have your accommodation organise a pickup.

Where to stay

Antsiranana has a small cluster of places to stay, mostly simple hotels offering double rooms with their own bathroom. Haimah Hotel adds hot water, cable TV and free Wi-Fi to the formula, while Hotel Suffren provides air-conditioned doubles. Paradis Du Nord sits on Rue de Loky, and Hotel Concorde is another straightforward option for a double with private facilities.

For a central base, Hôtel Le Colbert on rue Colbert puts you within easy reach of the town centre, and having the Bistro Colbert next door makes breakfast and dinner convenient. If you want a room with reliable connectivity, Haimah Hotel's free Wi-Fi is the safer bet, since Wi-Fi at Le Colbert can be sporadic.

Food & drink

You can head to Oh La La Pizza on Rue Sainte Marie, noted for good pizza, or try Pizza Naelle on Rue Colbert.

What to see and do

Antsiranana sits on a great bay, and much of what you'll want to see and do radiates from the water. In the southern part of the Diego Suarez Bay, south-east of the centre, Pain de Sucre (Nosy Lonjo) is a small conical island cloaked in vegetation and revered as a holy place. The French Military Cemetery is another stop within the city, and its houses of worship include the Roman Catholic Cathedral of the Sacred Heart of Jesus, the Anglican Cathedral and the Mosquée Bambao Antsiranana.

East of the city towards Ramena, the Montagne des Français (Ambohitr'Antsingy) is a protected area with plenty of hiking: the Vallée des Baobabs, which is also visible from the park entrance, a panoramic view over the bay, and the Vallée des Perroquets with its wildlife. A guide is mandatory here. The Sentier des 3 baies is a full-day footpath linking the Baie de Sakaleva, Baie des Pigeons and Baie des Dunes; a taxi can take you to Sakaleva Beach via a sandy, bumpy track, and you can walk around the cape past kite surfers, old forts and a lighthouse to finish at Orangea Beach on the west coast, meeting your taxi at Ramena Beach for the drive back. From Ramena you can also arrange a day trip to the Mer d'Émeraude, with unspoiled beaches and emerald green sea, including a boat trip, fresh lunch and snorkelling — bring sunscreen. Further afield, Cap Diego, the Parc national de la Montagne d'Ambre near Joffreville (allow at least a two-hour drive, and check ahead because the last stretch of road closes at certain hours), the red laterite formations of Tsingy Rouge near Sadjoavato, and the Réserve spéciale d'Ankarana are all within reach.

When to go

Antsiranana is hot all year, so plan around rain rather than temperature. The wet season runs from December to March, when downpours are a regular feature of a visit and you should be ready to work your plans around them. Conditions stay hot throughout, so the rain rarely brings relief from the heat.

The rest of the year is the dry season, when rainfall is uncommon though not impossible. The weather remains hot, making this the easier stretch for outdoor plans.

Three days in Antsiranana

Day one: Start in the centre of Antsiranana, known locally as Diego, and get your bearings on foot around Place Bazary, where the market bustle gives you a feel for the city's rhythm. From there, walk the streets towards Rue Sourcouf and the Grand Pavois area, taking in the colonial-era character of the centre. In the afternoon, head out towards Cap Diego for views over the water, and return to the city in the evening to eat around Place Bazary.

Day two: Take a trip out to the Lazaret Nord, a quiet coastal spot north of the city where you can slow down and enjoy the shoreline. Back in town, visit the Amiral Miot area and the Route de la Pyrotechnie, both useful reference points as you move around the city. If you need supplies or transport connections, Cotisse Transport and the taxi-brousse network link Diego with destinations such as Ambanja, Sambava and Antsohiny.

Day three: Use your final day to explore the neighbourhoods around the Avenir and Suarez areas, where everyday city life plays out away from the main sights. Arrange any onward travel through Arrachart Airport, served by Tsaradia, Madagascar Airlines and EWA, with connections to Antananarivo, Nosy Be, Dzaoudzi in Mayotte and beyond. Finish with a last walk through the centre before you leave.

About this place