Toliara
Introduction
Toliara is a city in southern Madagascar, serving as the capital of the Atsimo-Andrefana region. It sits far to the southwest of Antananarivo, the national capital, roughly 936 kilometres away.
Before you go
Before you travel, be aware that safety conditions vary sharply by area. Batterie Beach, just north of Toliara, has been the scene of violent crime, including fatalities, and several governments have issued warnings: Global Affairs Canada advises avoiding all travel to the area, while the government of New Zealand recommends increased caution there. Plan your trip around these advisories rather than treating the whole region as uniformly risky — the warnings are specific to Batterie Beach, so check current government guidance for the area before you commit to an itinerary.Getting there
Madagascar Airlines connects Toliara Airport (TLE) with Antananarivo daily, Morondava once a week and Taolagnaro twice a week. These flights fill up quickly, so book early.
Mini-buses (taxi brousse) are the cheapest way in. From Antananarivo they leave from the Fasan-karana taxi brousse station and take 18 to 24 hours depending on the vehicle and how often it breaks down. You can also pick one up from any of the major cities along the RN7. Many travellers instead rent a car and work their way down the RN7 over a few days, a good way to see different parts of the country; rentals almost always come with a driver, and the route passes Parc National Ranomafana near Fianarantsoa and Parc National Isalo.
Getting around
Getting around Toliara is mostly a matter of road transport, on foot, or by pousse-pousse. There is no rail, metro or tram network, and no conventional city bus service, so you can set aside any thought of buying a transit card or checking a route map. For longer journeys, taxi brousses — shared minibuses — connect Toliara with other towns and cities and are the cheapest way to reach the city from elsewhere in Madagascar; they run from the major cities along the RN7, and in Antananarivo they leave from the Fasan-karana taxi brousse station. The journey is long and unpredictable, depending heavily on the quality of the vehicle and how often it breaks down, so book or arrive early and treat the schedule as a rough guide rather than a promise. Fares are paid for the journey itself, with no pass or ticket system, so bring cash.
Within the city, pousse-pousse — the local rickshaws — are seemingly everywhere and are the cheapest form of transport available. They are ideal for short distances, for escaping the hot sun, or for carrying heavy luggage or shopping bags, and everyone uses them, not just tourists, so you will blend in rather than stand out. Being pulled along the street by a man can feel odd the first time, but the awkwardness is one-sided: the drivers are proud of their pousse-pousse and of the work they do. Fares are negotiated directly with the driver. Taxis exist, but the sources do not describe a fleet or any ride-hailing apps operating here, so it is safest to assume app-based services are not dependable; if you take a taxi, agree the fare before you set off, since there is no metered or ticketed system. Walking works well in the centre, where Toliara grew along a grid pattern of cross streets with wide avenues, and the colonial-era architecture and monuments along Boulevard Galliéni are best appreciated on foot, as is the waterfront shell market behind the French Alliance. Two things work against walking, though: the climate is hot and arid, and the city is constantly swept by a strong prevailing wind, the Tsio Katimo or "South Wind." Plan walks for the cooler parts of the day, carry water, and be ready to flag down a pousse-pousse when the sun or wind gets the better of you. Toliara Airport sits within the city itself, so a short pousse-pousse or taxi ride gets you to the centre — agree the taxi fare before departing. St. Luke's Clinic in the Sanfily district, on the road to the airport, is a useful landmark when navigating that side of town.
Where to stay
Where you sleep in Toliara depends largely on whether you want to be in the centre of town or out among the trees and beaches. In the centre, near Bazary Be and the Ganivala Internet Cafe, the Central Hotel offers spacious rooms with terraces overlooking the street, ceiling fans, and internal showers; some rooms have private toilets while others share. The central location is quiet at night, though the market stirs in the early morning. Also downtown, above the Evolution Super market near BNI bank on Boulevard Philibert Tsiranana, the Serena Hotel has just eight rooms, free Wi-Fi, and a tea parlour overlooking the street. Chez Lala keeps things basic and a bit dingy, with Wi-Fi in the restaurant area and a location close enough to walk anywhere in Tulear. On the seaside road near the intersection with Boulevard Philibert Tsiranana, Hôtel Le Palétuvier is the city's largest hotel and main conference centre, with a pool and a small internet cafe. Le Refuge, on the road to Anketa from downtown, is a small, smart hotel with a beautiful garden and swimming pool.
If you would rather trade the city for the grounds of the Arboretum d'Antsokay, about 12km east of Tulear on the RN7, Auberge de la Table puts you in clean, spacious bungalows where you wake to the sound of the birds that live in the arboretum. It has a swimming pool, a restaurant, and free Wi-Fi, and it accepts Visa and MasterCard. The Bakuba Hotel, roughly 14km outside town and 7km from the airport along a dirt road, is an African-themed luxury lodge designed and managed by a couple from Belgium, with three rooms and two suites, each decorated to its own theme. Meals come in enormous portions and can be taken on a second-floor patio overlooking the ocean, a first-floor deck overlooking the hills, or in the communal kitchen area; there is a pool, and the beach is a five-minute walk away. The lodge was designed by an artist, so expect some quirks — in a couple of rooms the bathroom and shower area is not separate from the sleeping area, and some custom light and plumbing fixtures may seem odd. Hotel Victory, a modern property with rooms and suites set in a tropical garden with a swimming pool, a large menu, and good English spoken, sits about ten minutes from the airport and can arrange pick-up by hotel bus, along with excursions, sailing, diving, snorkelling, and big game fishing.
Food & drink
For French and Indian dishes, pizza and a thick menu, try Etoile de Mer on the main coastal road not far from the centre of town, where a wide, breezy terrace and a pool table make it easy to linger over lunch or dinner. La Maison on Avenue d'Independence, across from the post office, is a French restaurant and bar with a slick atmosphere, a big TV usually playing music videos softly, and a pool table; many of the city's French residents eat here for a taste of home. La Terrase (Pizza Jeff) in Toliara Centre near Galana station is French-owned and set on a terrace, specialising in breakfast (including an English breakfast), salads and pizza, with large glasses of freshly made juice. For drinking, head to Traveaux in Brochette alley, behind B52 Casino and Etoile de Mer towards town. This is the local watering hole where residents turn out in force to drink beer and spirits, eat kebabs, grilled chicken and taro, and generally hang out. Food and bars start serving early, but the place doesn't get going until later, and it's the only spot in Toliara to get food past a certain hour.What to see and do
Outside Tulear, the Arboretum d'Antsokay offers a taste of the spiny forest, with English-speaking guides who know the plant life in depth; birds, chameleons and other lizards are likely to appear as you walk. Further out, La Table is a small table mountain reached by a fairly scenic fifteen-minute climb to the viewpoint, and it sits about three kilometres beyond the arboretum, roughly a forty-five-minute walk from there. In town, the Musée Rabesandratana, within the grounds of the Toliara Fisheries and Marine Sciences Institute on Avenue de France, is a place to learn about the marine world from oceanographic experts, covering corals, algae, sponges, shells, echinoderms, fish and turtles, with a large aquarium in the central room holding a coelacanth fished near Anakao. At Mahavatse on the Route du port, across from SEMS Toliara, the Musée du recyclage Tule'Art is an art gallery devoted to work made from recycled materials.Three days in Toliara
Day one: Arrive at Toliara Airport (TLE) on Madagascar Airlines from Antananarivo, or overland from Morondava, Taolagnaro, Fianarantsoa, Parc National Ranomafana or Parc National Isalo. Settle into the city, then walk Boulevard Galliéni, where the French Alliance and Tsio Katimo give the centre its character. In the evening, eat along the boulevard.
Day two: Head to Batterie Beach for the day. The water is warm, the sun strong; swim, walk the sand, and watch the Vezo fishermen at work. Return to Toliara for dinner.
Day three: Explore the Atsimo Andrefana region around Toliara. Take a taxi or minibus to the places beyond the centre, or arrange a boat. Before you leave, check your plans with Global Affairs Canada or the New Zealand embassy if you need consular help.