Antsirabe

Introduction

Antsirabe, also called Ville d'eau, is the capital of the Vakinankaratra region and is known across Madagascar for its relatively cool climate, its industry and the high concentration of pulled rickshaws, or pousse-pousses, that fill its streets. The city draws tourists each year who come for that cooler air and the rickshaw-lined avenues.

Before you go

Antsirabe sits high on the central highlands, so expect cooler, milder conditions than the coast; pack layers you can add and remove through the day rather than assuming tropical heat. The city is known for its thermal springs and its long-standing role as a spa town, and for a grid of broad colonial-era avenues that makes it easy to explore on foot or by bicycle.

• Bring warm clothing for cool highland evenings.
• Plan for gentle sightseeing around the thermal baths and the old colonial centre.
• Allow time to explore the surrounding highland countryside.

Getting there

Antsirabe is reached overland from Antananarivo. Gasycar Vip runs six buses a day, departing from Le Chalet des Roses hotel in the capital. Soatrans also makes the trip daily using new Mercedes and VW vans, covering the route in about five hours.

Taxis-brousse are best avoided: they are prone to breakdowns and uncomfortable, and it is said that some drivers work with highway bandits.

Getting around

Antsirabe is compact and its streets are calm, so walking covers much of the centre, including the Stele of Independence on Independence Avenue and the two public markets, Antsenakely and the larger Asabotsy. The signature way to move around, though, is the pousse-pousse: thousands of colourfully painted pulled rickshaws, alongside pedal-powered cyclo-pousse, make this one of the most common forms of transport after cycling. They suit short hops and leisurely sightseeing rather than long cross-city journeys, so agree on the price before you set off and tip fairly. Small buses run fixed urban routes, though the routes are not always clearly signed, so ask your hotel or guesthouse which one to take; fares are low and paid in cash. Auto rickshaws and private taxis fill in the rest, and since meters are uncommon, settle the fare before getting in. App-based ride-hailing is not something to count on here. Bicycles, quads and taxis are available for daily rent, and Rando Raid Madagascar rents motorbikes and sells motorbike, horse and trekking excursions.

For nearby towns, taxi-brousses and buses serve Antsirabe, with most taxi-brousses operating from the main bus station in the north of the city. They generally leave only when full rather than on a fixed timetable, so waits can range from minutes to a couple of hours: buy your ticket in person at the station, arrive early and favour daytime departures. Breakdowns and uncomfortable rides are reported, so a private car with a driver is a reasonable alternative if comfort matters, since it can be shared between two and four travellers. There is no metro or tram, and the railway line operated by Madarail runs freight only, so plan your travel by road. Bear the highland climate in mind as you move about: winter nights can fall below freezing and the warmer, wetter months bring frequent rain, so carry a layer even on a sunny day.

Where to stay

Most of Antsirabe's places to stay cluster in the centre, within easy reach of the old train station and the market. Arotel sits right in the middle of town near the old station, while Hotel Niavo is close to the market and offers single and double rooms, some with their own bathroom. If you want a bit of history, Hotel Trianon occupies a building dating to 1927; the furnishings are old too, but the effect is antique rather than tired. Rooms there have showers but no air conditioning, wi-fi is available, and the gated parking area adds security. Continental breakfast is served downstairs, and an attached restaurant covers lunch, dinner and drinks.

For something more modern, Hotel Diamant on the Route d'Andranobe has clean doubles with private hot-water bathrooms, cable TV in every room and a swimming pool. Blue Sky Hotel, on the street behind the train station, is another tidy option: doubles with private hot-water bathrooms, large cable TVs with USB players, fast free internet, free breakfast and its own bar and cafe. At the higher end, Couleur Café provides separate cabanas for each room, along with a bar and a small gift shop at reception.

Food & drink

What to see and do

Antsirabe is a good base for hiking, whether you go on foot, by mountain bike or on horseback. Two crater lakes lie outside town. Lac Tritriva is a natural crater lake about half an hour from the city, reached by car followed by a short hike; a guide can take you around the crest and the lake. Lac Andraikiba is the other lake to head for.

In town, look at the Antsirabe Train Station, an architecturally interesting example of colonial building techniques. The Malagasy railway network dates from the colonial period, and breakdowns are frequent, with many lines now closed; the station itself has been closed because of problems with the line to the capital.

When to go

Antsirabe has a subtropical highland climate, with a cold, dry winter and a warmer, wetter summer. Winter nights can drop below freezing, so pack warm layers for evenings even though the days are mild. The cold and dry season is the driest stretch of the year, with only one or two rainy days a month, and clear, dry conditions suit exploring the crater lakes and hot springs.

The warm and wet season is milder but much rainier, with frequent rain across many days each month, so bring waterproof gear and plan around wet afternoons; when it is dry, the temperatures are comfortable for walking. April and October sit between the wet and dry seasons, moderate months with some rain but plenty of usable weather for sightseeing.

Three days in Antsirabe

Day one: Start in Antsirabe itself, in the Vakinankaratra region of Madagascar, and get your bearings in Ville. Bring a plan for the altitude, since the town sits high and the air can feel cool and thin. Allow time to wander Independence Avenue and look for the Stele of Independence, then browse the small shops around Antsenakely and the Asabotsy market. They are good places to pick up the local vibe before an early dinner.

• Independence Avenue and the Stele of Independence
• Antsenakely and Asabotsy market

Day two: Get out of town on two wheels. Bicycles are a fine way to see the countryside, and Rando Raid Madagascar can sort you out with a ride. For longer trips, plan for breakdowns and carry what you need. If you would rather stay closer to town, the small auto app and local taxis (Mercedes, VW) can get you around, and Gasycar Vip and Soatrans are options for longer transfers. Back in town, Le Chalet and Roses are good spots to eat.

• Bicycles and Rando Raid Madagascar
• Gasycar Vip, Soatrans, taxis
• Le Chalet, Roses

Day three: Take a slower day. Most hotels, such as Arotel, Hotel Niavo, Hotel Trianon and Hotel Diamant, can arrange a continental breakfast and help you plan the next leg. If you are heading back to Antananarivo, Madarail is an option, though you should bear in mind that timetables can be unreliable. Otherwise, spend your last hours revisiting the market and the avenue before you go.

• Arotel, Hotel Niavo, Hotel Trianon, Hotel Diamant
• Madarail to Antananarivo