El Jadida
Introduction
El Jadida is a port city on Morocco's Atlantic coast, in the Casablanca-Settat region. It sits about 96 kilometres south of Casablanca, making it an easy stop for travellers moving along the coast.
Before you go
Before you go, it helps to know what kind of place El Jadida is. It serves as a holiday destination for Morocco's wealthier city dwellers, offering long beaches and a more relaxed atmosphere that comes as a welcome relief from the hustle and bustle of the larger cities inland. Its other economy is fishing, and the town also holds remains of Portuguese buildings and the Cistern. Be aware, though, that the fancy promenade and buildings are crumbling, and the town has not caught the same fresh development wind as Essaouira. If you have the choice, Essaouira should be preferred. The Portuguese remains and the Cistern are fairly limited attractions, so plan your visit with modest expectations.Getting there
El Jadida sits on the Rabat–Safi railway line, and the train station is about 3 km from the city, so it is not especially convenient for tourists. A taxi from the station into town is the usual way in; if none are available, you may end up walking to the nearest suburb. Direct trains run from Casablanca's Port and Casablanca Voyageurs stations roughly every two hours, taking about 1½ hours, while the trip from Rabat takes around 3 hours. From Marrakech there are several trains a day, with a travel time of about 6 hours.
Buses are another option. Services run from Agadir and Essaouira several times a day, with the Essaouira trip taking about 4½ hours, and there are hourly buses from Marrakech taking around 4 hours. A couple of buses a day also connect Rabat via Casablanca. All local buses, including CTM, arrive at the Gare Routière, a central but poorly maintained station with the CTM agency located inside it.
Getting around
El Jadida is walkable at heart, and the central neighbourhoods are compact enough that cafes, shops and the main sights sit within comfortable walking distance of one another. The historic Cité Portugaise — the Portuguese fortified city of Mazagan — is best explored on foot. Bear in mind, though, that the city stretches out along the Atlantic seafront, and walking from one end of the centre to the other can take around an hour, so plan your day accordingly if you're relying on foot alone.
- On foot: The most pleasant and practical way to cover central El Jadida, especially the Cité Portugaise. Outlying points and some errands will mean longer walks.
- Taxis: Plentiful and generally considered more reliable than buses, particularly when booked through trusted services. They're the go-to option for reaching the train station from the centre. Keep some cash handy, and if you arrive by train, be prepared for the possibility that no taxis are waiting — you may need to walk to the nearest suburb.
- Buses: Several bus lines serve the city, and buses are the most common form of public transit, but they can get crowded. The system is functional though limited, so don't expect the frequency or coverage of a large metropolis.
- Rail: El Jadida sits on the Rabat–Safi line, with trains to Casablanca (from both Port and Voyageurs stations), Rabat and Marrakech. The station lies a few kilometres from the city, so you'll need a taxi or a walk to reach the centre on arrival.
- Intercity buses: The Gare Routière (CTM station) is the central hub where all local buses, including CTM services, arrive. It's poorly maintained but centrally located, with the CTM agency right inside. From here you can reach Agadir, Essaouira, Marrakech and Rabat (via Casablanca). Frequencies vary by route, so check schedules in advance.
- Cycling: Challenging. Bike-friendly infrastructure is limited and traffic safety is a concern, so commuting by bike is difficult. Recreational cycling in less trafficked areas can be feasible if you stick to quieter stretches.
- From the airport: No airport serving El Jadida directly is specified; most visitors arrive via Casablanca's Mohammed V International Airport and continue by train or bus, then take a taxi the final stretch from the train station or Gare Routière into the centre.
Where to stay
For the cheapest option, you can sleep on the beach if you bring a sleeping bag or tent ground sheet, though you may wake up damp from the salt spray. There is also a campsite at the north-east end of town, about a five-minute walk from the large roundabout near the sea. In town, Dar El Jadida is a cheap B&B with nice rooms, private bathrooms and a panoramic terrace, and breakfast is included.
- Dar El Jadida — a budget B&B with a panoramic terrace and breakfast included.
For a mid-range stay, Riad Harmonie is a guesthouse with a cozy, friendly atmosphere, run by a French couple who live on the spot; the owners speak good English, and it is within a slow ten-minute walk of the Cité Portugaise. At the top end, Mazagan Beach Resort is a five-star hotel set in undeveloped land at the centre of the oasis, next to a long beach, with rooms and suites.
- Riad Harmonie — a friendly guesthouse a short walk from the Cité Portugaise.
- Mazagan Beach Resort — a five-star hotel beside a long beach.
Food & drink
For a taste of home, head to the seafront north of the town centre, where you'll find a handful of western-style restaurants. Otherwise, the local eating scene is limited, so plan your meals around what's available rather than seeking out variety. When you need a break, mint tea is the drink to order. The massive cafe in the centre of town, down the main road from near the entrance to the medina, is the spot to sit and sip it.What to see and do
The Portuguese fortress, also known as Manzagão or Mazagan, is the heart of the city: a World Heritage-listed Portuguese town from the 16th century that rewards a slow stroll and draws photographers, with a circular walk along the top of the city walls. Nearby, the Portuguese cistern, built in 1514 as a warehouse and later converted to hold water, is known for the thin layer of water across its floor that creates striking reflections; several films have been shot here, most famously Orson Welles' Othello. For sand and sea, head to Deauville Plage, or make the short trip to Sidi Bouzid beach, around 5 km from El Jadida, which is popular with locals and gets packed in summer, with plenty of restaurants on hand. Otherwise, do as many do towards the end of a trip and simply relax in one of the town's restaurants or cafes. El Jadida feels far more chilled than Marrakech or Fez, and lets you experience true Moroccan city life without the hassle, noise and glaring social inequity of Casablanca — expect not to be bothered by anyone.When to go
El Jadida has a hot-summer Mediterranean climate, so the time you choose shapes what you can do. Winter is the coolest and wettest stretch of the year: expect more rain than at any other time, with December seeing the most rainy days and January the most humid month. Pack accordingly if you visit then.
Summer is the warmest and driest part of the year and the peak season for beach weather; July is by far the driest month, with almost no rain. Spring and autumn are transitional periods — rainfall tapers off through spring, when May has the lowest relative humidity of the year, while rain gradually returns in autumn, building toward the wetter months at the end of the year.
Three days in El Jadida
Day one: Arrive in El Jadida and get your bearings in the Cité Portugaise, the old walled quarter also known as Mazagan. Walk the ramparts above the Atlantic and take in the Portuguese Cistern, the vaulted chamber that is the town's most famous sight. Outlying beaches are within reach, and taxis are plentiful if you would rather ride than walk.
Day two: Travel onward along the coast. Essaouira lies to the south, while Safi and Casablanca sit to the north, and Rabat is further up the Atlantic shore. If you prefer to stay closer, Settat is inland. Buses serve these routes, with CTM among the services, and the Gare Routière is the place to catch them.
Day three: Head out from El Jadida by rail or road. Direct services run to Casablanca Voyageurs, and from Marrakech and Agadir you can reach the coast by bus. Keep an eye on connections before you set out, and bear in mind that the Atlantic weather can turn cool and windy.