Maseru

Introduction

Maseru is the capital of Lesotho and its largest city, set on the Caledon River directly on the border with South Africa. The city also serves as the capital of Maseru District, and its name comes from a Sesotho word meaning "red sandstones".

• Maseru began as a police camp and was made capital when the country became a British protectorate in 1869.
• It kept that status when Lesotho gained independence in 1966.

Getting there

You can reach Maseru by road from South Africa through the border entry point, and the Maseru Bridge Border Post serves as a drop-off point for most South African national coach services, from where you can catch a taxi into the city. Vaal-Maseru Bus Services sometimes runs a Johannesburg to Maseru service, though it's best to call ahead for up-to-date information. A daily coach leaves Bloemfontein's main bus station direct to the Maseru Bridge border in about two hours; if you miss it, numerous Toyota Hiaces will drop you halfway, where you can pick up a second Hiace to Maseru, a journey taking three to five hours depending on how long the Hiace takes to fill. Intercape drops off at Ladybrand, from where it's a 20-minute minibus journey to Maseru. As the transport hub of Lesotho, anywhere connected by road has a minibus taxi service to Maseru.

By plane, Moshoeshoe Airport lies 18 km from Maseru, with South African Airways operating a couple of daily flights to Johannesburg; luggage is lost very regularly and there is no lost luggage reporting system, so arrange a taxi pick-up in advance as there are no taxis at the airport. Mission Aviation flies from the smaller Moshoeshoe I airport just off Airport Road, 2 km from central Maseru, offering charter flights to places including Mokhotlong, Thaba-Tseka and Katse. Flights are fairly expensive and the little planes can be cramped, but they fly to most airstrips in Lesotho.

Getting around

Maseru has no metro, light rail, tram or suburban passenger train network, so getting around means shared minibus taxis — known locally as combis — plus basic buses, private hire taxis and rental cars. The main taxi station sits on Moshoeshoe Road, with a central rank beside the main market in the city centre; from these ranks combis serve city neighbourhoods and connect Maseru with lowland and foothill towns and longer highland destinations. Fares are inexpensive and regulated, cash only, paid to the driver or conductor — both South African rand and Lesotho loti are accepted, and there are no transit cards or ticketing systems, so keep small notes and coins handy. Departures are typically "when full" rather than on a fixed timetable, so build in extra time for connections. Google Maps has detailed coverage of Maseru and Lesotho if you want to orient yourself before setting out.

Private hire taxis cost more but make sense with luggage or when heading to streets you don't know; meters are rare, so agree the fare before you set off, and arrange cabs through your accommodation or by phoning local operators such as Comfort Taxis and Moonlight Taxis. Ride-hailing apps are not a reliable option here. The compact core around the two central business districts along Kingsway is walkable during daylight — taking in the colonial-era buildings and landmarks such as the Royal Palace and the Parliament building — but walking becomes less advisable after nightfall, so keep to busier streets and take a taxi in the evening. A rental car is worth considering for the highlands, where combi coverage thins out; cars are often hired in South Africa and brought across the border, which generally needs a cross-border permit arranged in advance. Lesotho drives on the left, mountain roads are often dirt and deteriorate after rain, Sani Pass requires a 4WD, and night driving is discouraged. From Moshoeshoe I International Airport, a private taxi is the only reliable way into town — there is no rail link and no shuttle service — so arrange a pickup in advance through your hotel or guesthouse and agree the fare before departure.

Where to stay

Maseru works as a budget overnight stop, and plenty of backpackers pass through on their way to Semonkong Lodge, Malealea or Ladybrand in South Africa. The Lesotho-Durham Link (Maseru Backpackers) sits off the Agric/Old Airport Road on the northern edge of the lake, about 3 km from the centre, so you'll need a taxi or combi down the old airport road and should ask for the Agric College, as your driver may not know the place by name. Camping is possible in the summer months (October through May), and dormitory beds are available. Two training centres also take travellers if you ask in advance: the Anglican Training Centre on the corner of Assisi Rd and Lancers Rd, which has basic amenities, and the Lesotho Work Camps Association on Kingsway behind the Catholic cathedral, which offers hot water and a small kitchen but is less clean than the Anglican centre.

For mid-range comfort, Mohokare Guest House in New Europa is tranquil, modern and safe, about 3 km from the city centre. Boikhutsong Bed & Breakfast is a six-bedroom guesthouse in the Hillsview suburb, reachable by taxi or a 30-minute walk. Foothills Guest House on Maluti Road sits in leafy Maseru West, where the King and most of the government live, a short walk from town and a good alternative to the pricier hotels. Lakeside Hotel is several miles out on Main North, while Mpilo Lodge is also on Maluti Road in Maseru West. The Victoria Hotel on Kingsway is adequate at best and often a business traveller's last resort when other hotels are full; it's next to the red light area and the cinema. At the top end, Lancer's Inn is a colonial-style hotel right in the centre just off Kingsway, with reasonable rooms and self-catered rondavels, popular with business travellers. The Avani Maseru Hotel on Orpen Rd is a 20-minute uphill walk from the centre, perched on a hill overlooking the city, and is the most luxurious option, with a very nice swimming pool, a casino, gym, small cinema and business facilities; refurbishment has long been planned but always set to begin "next year". City Stay Maseru on New Parliament Dr, formerly Queen Protea, is a luxury hotel a little way out of town, better if you have a car, with en suite rooms and Wi-Fi.

Food & drink

For cheap, filling lunches, head to Kingsway, where street vendors cook up chicken, pork, rice and papa for the town's office workers. The Peace Restaurant on Moeshoeshoe Rd, tucked at the back of a Chinese grocery shop, serves authentic Chinese food on plastic chairs, with Chinese karaoke on Friday and Saturday nights. Oh Lah Lah French Café on the corner of Kingsway and Pioneer Rd offers simple, reliable and cheap food such as burgers and grilled meat, with open-air seating under trees on a busy central corner; it gets packed at lunchtime. Good Times Cafe in the LNDC Centre above the Vodacom shop serves adequate South African fare and is fine for lunch if you have time to spare, with a big screen for live football. For something more mid-range, Lancer's Inn on Kingsway serves good food but slowly, while Mohokare Restaurant at the Avani Maseru Hotel offers regional fare for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Good Times Cafe is also the only non-hotel bar in Maseru likely to appeal to a visitor, lively at weekends and especially after pay-day at the end of the month, with live music and a young, wealthy crowd, though quiet on week nights. The pool bar at Lesotho Sun is great for sundowners. The UN Club, next to the Sparrows bar and gas station behind Lancers Inn, keeps unpredictable hours but is worth a try if you're adventurous. To get off the tourist trail, a local bar in the suburbs about 2 km southeast of the cathedral traffic circle, just off the main south road, is safe, friendly and cheap, with a pleasant beer garden out back.

What to see and do

Maseru works best as a base for expeditions deeper into Lesotho rather than as a sightseeing destination in its own right, but a few stops reward a day or two in the city. The Mokorotlo is among the country's most monumental buildings, a traditional hut reimagined in a modern style and run as a virtual museum where you can learn about the culture and traditions of the Basotho. The Lesotho National Museum holds traditional sculptures alongside a wide range of art and historical artifacts devoted to the country's history. On a weekday, head two kilometres south of the centre on Pioneer Road, past the Pope's Podium, to Thetsane, a cluster of factories turning out t-shirts and jeans for American chain stores; the chaotic hustle and bustle there contrasts sharply with the slow pace of life elsewhere in Lesotho and offers a look at what African industrialisation looks like.

For activities, the Lehakoe Club and Gym on Moshoeshoe Road, next to the Central Bank and near the Houses of Parliament, is an excellent gym by any standards, with two swimming pools, tennis and squash courts, steam rooms and a sauna. The Lesotho National Tennis Courts on the Kingsway bypass are functional and cheap, with tuition available, and you can play a round at the Maseru Golf Course. You can also go canoeing on the Caledon river with the Lesotho-Durham Link, or try your luck at the Avani Lesotho Casino. Behind the casino rises a rocky hill, where the Chinese-built parliament building stands; the climb takes about half an hour and is well worth the effort, so go before sunset and take your camera. Farther afield, the Kome Cave Dwellings were built and protected by Chief Teleka of the Basia Clan in the early 19th century as a hideout from adversaries during the drought of the late 18th century; a guided tour is best, though you can reach them yourself with a 4WD, parking at the top of the hill and walking about twenty minutes down to the visitor's centre. If your visit falls in early March, Moeshoeshoe Day is celebrated with colourful processions through the city centre.

When to go

Maseru has a subtropical highland climate, so plan around two sharply different seasons. Summer is warm and rainy, with afternoon downpours and lush green surroundings; January is both the wettest and the hottest month. Winter is cool to chilly and dry, and July is the coldest and driest month, so nights can drop below freezing.

• Summer: Warm and rainy, with afternoon downpours and green landscapes.
• Winter: Cool to chilly and dry, with freezing nights possible.

Festivals & events

Maseru's calendar centres on Moshoeshoe's Day, held each March in honour of the founder of the Basotho nation. If your visit coincides with it, expect the city to mark the occasion with public commemorations rather than the commercial festival circuit found elsewhere in the region.

Three days in Maseru

Day one: Arrive in Maseru, the capital of Lesotho, and get your bearings in the city centre. If you cross from South Africa, you will likely come through the Maseru Bridge Border Post, and from there you can reach the centre by taxi. Minibus taxis are the main way around, with Toyota Hiaces running frequent routes; Comfort Taxis and Moonlight Taxis are among the operators you may see. Long-distance services such as Maseru Bus Services, Intercape and Vaal connect the city with Johannesburg and Bloemfontein, and the border town of Ladybrand is nearby on the South African side. Settle in, walk the streets, and listen for Sesotho, the local language spoken alongside English.

Day two: Use the day to explore Maseru District and the landmarks tied to Moshoeshoe, the founder of the nation. Moshoeshoe Road and Airport Road are useful reference points as you move between the centre and the edges of town. If you prefer not to rely on minibuses, private taxis are available, and Google Maps can help you plan your movements. The Caledon River marks the boundary with South Africa, and the border crossing at Maseru Bridge is the busiest link between the two countries.

Day three: Head out towards Moshoeshoe Airport if your onward plans involve flying; South African Airways and Mission Aviation are among the carriers associated with the airport, with departures to destinations such as Mokhotlong, Thaba Tseka and Katse. Fares vary, so check schedules in advance. If you are returning to South Africa by road, allow time for the Maseru Bridge Border Post, and remember that the British colonial legacy and the country's independence shape much of what you see in and around the capital.