Sidon
Introduction
Sidon, also known as Saida, sits on the Mediterranean coast and serves as the capital of Lebanon's South Governorate. It occupies a convenient spot along the coast, with Tyre to the south and Beirut to the north each roughly the same distance away, making the city a natural stop when travelling between them.
Within the city limits you'll find a compact place, while its wider metropolitan area spreads out to include a considerably larger population. That mix of a tight historic core and a broader urban surround shapes how the city feels to visit.
Before you go
Before you go, it is worth checking current conditions if you plan to visit the Ein el-Helweh Refugee Camp, as it has sometimes been unsafe there due to armed conflict. The rest of the city is normally safe.Getting there
Sidon is reached most easily from Beirut, which lies about an hour away by road. You can drive yourself or take a bus; minibuses leave from Beirut's Cola station and run to Sidon throughout the day.
Buses set you down in the centre of the city, close to the Sea Castle and the other main sights, so you can begin exploring on foot as soon as you arrive.
Getting around
As in all of Lebanon, the best way to get around Sidon is by taxi. Cabs offer two kinds of service, and knowing the difference helps you use them confidently. A private taxi ride means you hire the car for yourself. A "service" car is the cheaper option: service is the word you use to permit other passengers to board, and these cars run along set routes picking up and dropping off multiple passengers. If you want the car to yourself, make clear that you are asking for a private taxi rather than a service; if you are happy to share and want to save money, ask for a service. There is no rail, metro, or tram network serving the city, so do not plan on using any form of train or urban rail.
Buses and minibuses are the main form of public transport for reaching Sidon and for moving between it and other cities, with fares paid in cash on board. A minibus from Beirut's Cola station takes about an hour and arrives in the centre of the city, close to the Sea Castle and other sights. Once you are in the centre, the main attractions are clustered together, so walking between them is a realistic option. For longer hops across the city or to areas outside the centre, taxis remain the practical choice. The reference material does not describe a direct airport-to-Sidon transfer; a visitor arriving by air would travel into Beirut first and continue onward by bus, minibus, or car.
Where to stay
Your only listed option is a convent in the souk, and it makes a characterful base. It has a calm courtyard, and the staff are described as dynamic and friendly. Rooms are clean enough, and breakfast is not included, so plan to eat elsewhere in the morning.
- To find it from the port, face the Khan and follow the street on its left, then turn right up the street; the convent is on the right side.
Food & drink
For traditional Lebanese food, try Zawat, Al Arabi or Al Mamlouk. If you're after something quick and cheap, Baba snack and Abu Rami's Falafel are good options. You'll also find local restaurants and chains such as El Padrino, Crepaway and Sushi Bento, alongside international chains including McDonald's, KFC and Dunkin' Donuts. Sidon is more conservative than some other Lebanese cities, and alcoholic drinks are not offered in its restaurants, cafes or supermarkets. Instead, head to the city's juice shops for chunky fruit cocktails, julabs, Amar El Dine, tamarind juice and other traditional fruit juices.What to see and do
Sidon's main attraction is the Sea Castle, built by the crusaders and offering sweeping views back over the city and its harbour. North of the centre, about four kilometres out, you can explore the ruins of the Eshmun Temple, dedicated to the Phoenician god of healing. Down at the fishing port, a pleasant spot to linger, you can watch fishermen repairing their nets and buy fresh fish. South of the city along the shore, the Djebel is a hill of rubbish some fifty metres high and several hundred metres long. There is nothing nice about it, but its sheer scale is impressive in its own way.Three days in Sidon
Day one: Start in Sidon, also called Saida, on the Mediterranean coast of Lebanon in the South Governorate. Begin at the Sea Castle, the city's landmark on the water, then walk into the old town to the Khan, where the atmosphere is Lebanese and unhurried. For lunch, try falafel, or eat at Zawat, Al Arabi, Al Mamlouk, Baba or Abu Rami. In the evening, choose between El Padrino, Crepaway, Sushi Bento, McDonald or KFC. If you arrive by bus, Cola is where buses from Beirut stop; cabs are also available.
Day two: Use Sidon as your base for a day trip to Tyre, further south along the coast. Before you go, have breakfast in the old town. Once you return, spend the afternoon around the Khan and the Sea Castle. For dinner, return to your favourites among Zawat, Al Arabi, Al Mamlouk, Baba or Abu Rami, or pick one of the international options: El Padrino, Crepaway, Sushi Bento, McDonald or KFC.
Day three: Explore beyond the centre. Ein El Helweh Refugee Camp is within the area, and the South Governorate surrounds the city. That morning, take a cab or a bus from Cola if you are heading onward to Beirut or Tyre. For your last meal, choose falafel or one of the Lebanese spots such as Zawat, Al Arabi, Al Mamlouk, Baba or Abu Rami. Rooms in Sidon let you stay close to the Sea Castle and the Khan, so you can end your trip by the Mediterranean.