Vientiane
Introduction
You will find a sense of history and spiritual significance in Vientiane, the capital city situated along the banks of the Mekong River near the border with Thailand. This location served as the administrative center during the period of French rule.
During your stay, you can visit prominent religious sites including Pha That Luang, an icon of Buddhism, and other nearby temples such as Haw Phra Kaew.
Before you go
Prepare for a landscape of contrasts as you navigate Vientiane, where French colonial villas stand alongside modern concrete structures and bustling strip malls. While the city is generally safe, you should remain vigilant against bag snatching in cafe areas or while traveling by bicycle or moped; if a theft occurs, shout immediately to alert nearby police. Be mindful of your surroundings on the ground, as missing sewer covers and loose pavement stones pose a risk, particularly at night. To respect local customs and laws, wear long trousers or sleeves when visiting official offices or temples, where women are encouraged to wear a traditional sarong.
Be aware of specific local regulations and risks during your stay:
- E-cigarettes are illegal and subject to confiscation or legal penalties.
- Illegal drugs, particularly methamphetamine, carry extremely harsh penalties; exercise caution regarding offers from tuk-tuk drivers.
- Local laws strictly prohibit foreigners from having sexual relations with Laotian nationals other than their spouses, and violations can lead to severe legal consequences.
Getting there
You can arrive in Vientiane by air at the centrally-located Wattay Airport, where you will find currency exchange, shops, and a restaurant on the second floor of the international section. Note that you must use the airport check-in counters even if you have already checked in online, and you should fill out your Departure Card while waiting in the security line. For onward travel from the airport, you can take an airport shuttle bus to the city center or the Central Bus Station, utilize a rideshare app for a pickup at arrivals, or take a local bus if you walk toward the main road.
Rail travel offers several ways into the city:
- High-speed trains run from Muang Xay and Kunming, providing a fast and comfortable journey through the countryside.
- The Vientiane railway station serves as the southern terminus for the Lao-China Railway, located in a rural area on the northeast edge of the city.
- The Khamsavath station, located just outside the city center, provides direct rail connections from Bangkok and Udon Thani.
Getting around
Navigating the city is generally straightforward as traffic remains manageable compared to larger regional hubs. While street signs in the center are increasingly common and appear in both Lao and French, they can be inconsistent in their terminology. Because local residents may be hesitant to provide directions in English, you should rely on landmarks such as nearby temples, hotels, or embassies to orient yourself. Be cautious when walking near roadside drainage gullies, as the concrete covers can be damaged or missing. While the city center features paved roads and street lighting, many areas outside the center lack footpaths, making walking less convenient.
You have several options for transport depending on your preference:
- Tuk-tuks and larger jumbos are ubiquitous; however, you should negotiate the fare in advance to avoid inflated prices from drivers at busy locations.
- Bicycles offer a practical way to navigate the flat terrain, though you should test the brakes and be cautious of muddy, unpaved roads or hidden potholes after rain.
- Minibuses and older buses connect the center to suburban districts, though they lack air conditioning and English signage.
- A small fleet of taxis is available near major landmarks like the Friendship Bridge and the airport, while ride-hailing apps provide an alternative for navigating the city.
Where to stay
You can find a wide range of accommodations in Vientiane, from budget-friendly guesthouses to high-end hotels. While some properties have an online presence, many do not; your best strategy is to head into the town center, such as Nam Phu Square, and explore the options along Setthathirat Road and its side streets. Be mindful that finding a room becomes significantly more difficult during the peak season in January, so booking in advance is recommended. If you plan to enjoy the local nightlife, check with your host regarding their entry policies, as some establishments enforce early curfews or lock front doors at night.
For those seeking a more affordable stay, several guesthouses and hostels offer comfortable options. You can find clean rooms with amenities like air conditioning, Wi-Fi, and private bathrooms in various locations across the city. Some properties provide additional perks such as breakfast, bicycle rentals, or laundry services. If you prefer a mid-range experience, there are boutique hotels and established establishments offering features like swimming pools, riverside views, and traditional Lao music performances. For a unique atmosphere, some older hotels retain their historic charm with classic decor and spacious gardens.
Food & drink
Explore the riverside for a relaxed atmosphere where you can enjoy Lao, Thai, and Western dishes as the sun sets over the Mekong. Many of these unpretentious beer gardens offer grilled fish and local favorites like boiled duck eggs. Some establishments feature traditional Lao-style reed mats on the ground with low rattan tables, providing a comfortable setting to sit cross-legged while you dine.
For a more local experience, visit the Ban Anou Night Market at sundown for street snacks such as pho with hand-pulled noodles, lettuce-wrapped miang, and grilled skewered meats. You can also try small rice pancakes filled with minced pork and bean sprouts or find authentic noodle soups featuring thick white rice noodles and various toppings like fried pork and quail eggs. If you prefer a specific cuisine, the city offers several Indian restaurants, a selection of Japanese dishes including sushi and ramen, and Western options such as Philly cheesesteaks, kebabs, and quesadillas.
What to see and do
Vientiane serves as a comfortable transit point or a relaxing stop before continuing your journey through Laos. You can explore the city's history at the Lao National Museum, which features architecture and artifacts reflecting the country's prehistoric, wartime, and ethnic identity, or visit the Kaysone Phomvihane Museum to learn about the life of this prominent war hero and former prime minister. For a look into local traditions, the Lao Textile Museum offers a semi-open-air space where you can watch weavers at work, see traditional clothing, and witness the process of making indigo and dyed thread.
The city's religious landmarks offer diverse experiences:
- Pha That Luang, a three-layered gilded stupa and national symbol, provides a view of numerous Buddha statues in its inner courtyard.
- Wat Si Saket offers a contemplative atmosphere within walls housing hundreds of niches filled with Buddha images made of wood, stone, silver, and bronze.
- Hophakaew Museum houses various Buddha images in a majestic structure, including a notable "calling for rain" pose.
- The Black Stupa features an aged patina and is situated near lush grass vegetation.
- Wat Si Muang provides a more active atmosphere where followers believe lifting a small Buddha statue will have their prayers answered.
You can experience three distinct seasons in Vientiane, each offering a different atmosphere. The dry season provides the most pleasant conditions with warm days and cooler nights, making it the peak time for visitors despite the increased crowds. If you prefer a more humid environment, the wet season offers moderate temperatures accompanied by frequent tropical downpours.
The hot season brings intense heat and high humidity that can create oppressive conditions. During this period, the weather is significantly more demanding for those exploring the city.
Three days in Vientiane
Day one, you can begin your journey in the heart of Vientiane. You can visit Pha That Luang to experience the essence of Buddhism and see the local architecture. While exploring, you can observe the influence of French history on the city's surroundings.
Day two, you can travel toward the Mekong River to take in the views. You can explore the area around Haw Phra Kaew to immerse yourself in the local atmosphere. During your time here, you can enjoy the peaceful environment of the Lao capital.
Day three, you can prepare for your departure from Vientiane. Whether you are heading toward Thailand or other destinations, you can use a tuk-tuk to navigate the city streets before reaching your transport hub.