Gangneung
Introduction
Gangneung is a municipal city in the South Korean state of Gangwon, sitting on the country's east coast. It serves as the economic centre of the Yeongdong region, and its coastal setting shapes much of what you'll do here.
Among its many tourist attractions are Jeongdongjin, an area popular for watching the sunrise, and Gyeongpo Beach. The city also hosted all the ice events for the 2018 Winter Olympics and the 2024 Winter Youth Olympics.
Before you go
Gangneung has long been geologically isolated from much of the rest of the country, which allowed it to preserve a distinct local culture; today it tends to be politically and culturally more conservative than some other parts of Korea. It was the venue for the ice sports of the Olympic Winter Games PyeongChang 2018.
- The Korea Travel Hotline & Complaint Center offers 24-hour support in Korean, English, Chinese and Japanese for tour information, complaints and emergency calls, free of charge.
- Tourist information centers at Gangneung Station and beside the bus terminal in Hongje-dong provide maps and guide books in English, Japanese and Chinese.
Getting there
Gangneung is served by two rail options. The Dong Hae line of Korail terminates at Gangneung Station on Yulgok-ro, with a connection to Cheongnyangni Station in Seoul that takes a circuitous route through the mountains and runs about six hours. Much faster is the Korea Train Express (KTX) Gangneung Line, which covers Seoul Station to Gangneung in roughly two hours and Cheongnyangni Station to Gangneung in about an hour and a half. Tickets can be bought as much as a month ahead or as little as twenty minutes before departure, either at the station, through the KorailTalk mobile application, or on the official website. A tourist information booth sits in front of the station.
By road, Gangneung Bus Terminal on Haseulla-ro links the city to all major cities in Korea, and the main tourist information centre is located here. Only one expressway connects Gangneung to Seoul, so traffic is heavy on Fridays for arrivals and Sundays for departures, particularly in summer when the city is a popular weekend destination for people from the capital area. An "Airport Limousine" also runs from the bus terminal to Incheon International Airport, stopping at Gimpo Airport along the way.
Getting around
Downtown Gangneung is compact enough to cross on foot in about 15 minutes, and most streets have names and signs, so walking is straightforward. The city centre has good sidewalks and gets busy near Jungang Market. Other popular areas, such as the beaches and Anmok Coffee Street, are usually less than 15 minutes away by taxi from downtown. If you prefer to explore on foot, the paths around Gyeongpo Lake and Beach, the Anmok Coffee Street promenade, and the Ojukheon House grounds are all pleasant to walk.
The public bus system is good and covers major neighbourhoods, beaches and tourist spots, with many routes following the coastal road and most bus signs in English. Fares are a flat rate on city routes when you pay cash, but a transportation card is cheaper and more flexible: card holders get a discount and one free transfer between buses, including between a regular bus and an express city bus, provided you tag your card at the terminal near the front or rear door and transfer within the time window. Prepaid cards can be bought and topped up with cash at designated sales and charging shops and at convenience stores, while postpaid cards are credit or debit cards with a transportation card function. Taxis are affordable and convenient, metered, and accept cash, credit cards and T-money; you can hail one on the street, at taxi stands, or through apps such as Kakao T. Note that certain outlying areas, including the Jumunjin area, Gangdong-myeon and the Okgye area, carry an extra charge. Cycling is also appealing, with well-maintained paths along the coast and around Gyeongpo Lake, and rental shops near the beach areas and key tourist spots.
Where to stay
Where you stay in Gangneung depends largely on whether you want the beach or the train station. Around Gyeongpo and Gangmun, the coastline is lined with large resorts. Seamarq Hotel in Gangmun-dong is a five-star property with pools, a spa, restaurants and a fitness centre, while Hotel Kyongpo Beach and Gangneung Tourist Hotel both offer first-class rooms near the water. Further along the coast, St. John's Hotel has infinity pools with East Sea views, a dog park and pet rooms, and Gyeongpo Emerald Beach Hotel provides simple air-conditioned rooms with coffee makers and fridges. Gyeongpodae The Hotel Business and Four Seasons Beach Tourist Hotel sit a short drive from Gyeongpodae and Ohjukheon, making them handy for sightseeing, and Sun Cruise Hotel, built to look like a cruise ship run aground on a cliff, is a landmark in its own right. Out at Okgye-myeon, Hotel Tops 10 overlooks Geumjin Beach and packs in a sauna, karaoke, screen golf and a buffet restaurant. If you're arriving by train or watching your budget, the guesthouses and hostels are the practical choice. Gangneung Station Guesthouse is just steps from the train station, and Aark House near Yongji-ro offers compact dorms and single rooms. Chodang Guesthouse is another dorm-and-double option. For a mid-range stay, Gyeongpo Emerald Beach Hotel and Gyeongpodae The Hotel Business keep costs down without moving you far from the beach or the main attractions.Food & drink
Gangneung is known for sundubu (soft tofu), and the Chodang district is where you'll find it done best — Chodang Grandma's Sundubu makes its own tofu for a softer taste, while Chodang Hooni Sundubu Jjamppong pairs creamy sundubu with a smoky jjamppong broth, including a lighter siraegi version made with dried radish greens that works well for breakfast. Other local staples worth seeking out include gamja ongsimi, a dumpling soup, at Gangneung Gamja Ongsimi, and makguksu, Gangwon's chilled buckwheat noodle dish, at Yehyang Makguksu. Kalguksu, a handmade knife-cut noodle soup, shows up in several forms: the plain version at Geumhak Kalguksu, the spicy jang (red pepper paste) style at Brother's noodle and Geumcheon noodle soup, and a jang-kalguksu that's both spicy and savory. For something different, Ho Ho Sarang serves baked yellow squash stuffed with smoked duck alongside dong-dong ju, a traditional rice wine, and Gwangdeok Restaurant offers gukbap — rice in a meat-based broth — in sundae, someori and chicken versions.
Beyond the local specialties, the city covers most cravings. Chung-ang Cutlet specializes in tonkatsu set meals and pork cutlet sandwiches, Bani Sweet and Sour Chicken serves sweet-and-sour and Korean-style fried chicken in mild or spicy flavors, and Gangneung Gimbap is a typical Korean restaurant open around the clock with gimbap, bibimbap and kimchi stew. Jumunjin Red Crab Infinite Refill offers exactly what its name suggests, while Gangneung Pungnyeon Galbi is a spacious Korean barbecue spot for house-marinated pork ribs and Korean beef ribs, with guests grilling at their own tables. For a hanok-style setting, Gangneung Neoul Jumak serves Italian-inspired dishes such as zucchini pasta with shrimp and kimchi aglio e olio. Cafes are plentiful: Cafe Paul & Mary is known for handmade burgers, Uncle Bob is an American-owned coffee shop with countryside outdoor seating near the lake and beach, and Bossanova Coffee Roaster, Gallery Babs — try the Chodang corn coffee — End To And with its garden setting, and the ocean-view Mirmar on Anmok Beach round out the coffee scene. For drinks, Bud Namu Brewery offers craft beers incorporating local characteristics, and Dudding, 1971 serves tofu pudding in flavors like chocolate, black sesame and green tea.
What to see and do
Gangneung's sights cluster into a few distinct areas, each with its own character. Around Gyeongpo, you can visit Ojukheon House, the birthplace of the scholar Yulgok and his mother Saimdang, both of whom appear on Korean banknotes, along with its municipal museum and one of the oldest wooden buildings in the country. Nearby, Seongyojang House shows off the curved rooflines of upper-class Joseon living, while the Museum of Oriental Embroidery displays traditional needlework from Korea, China and Japan. Outdoors, the Gyeongpo Wetland was restored to support aquatic life, and Gyeongpodae Pavilion above Gyeongpoho Lake is counted among the eight scenic spots of Gwandong. Gyeongpo Beach offers a long sandy strand backed by pine trees, and you can also step into the Charmsori Gramophone and Edison Science Museum, the Gyeongpo Aquarium, or the Arte Museum's immersive media art.
Further afield, the Jeongdongjin and Okgye area holds the Gangneung Unification Park, where a North Korean submarine from a 1996 incursion is on display, plus the coastal sculpture park Haslla Art World and Sandglass Park with its giant hourglass. The Jeongdongsimgok Sea Road is a rare coastal terrace revealing traces of ancient crustal movement, and Heonhwa Road carries legends recorded in the Samguk Yusa. Inland, the Daegwallyeong area draws hikers to the Old Daegwallyeong Road through the Baekdudaegan range, along with the Daegwallyeong Museum, a recreational forest of old pines, and a coffee museum in Wangsan.
When to go
Gangneung has a humid subtropical climate, with the sea moderating conditions year-round. Winters are cool to cold, but the coastal position keeps them milder than elsewhere in Korea — expect chilly rather than severe cold, with the sea tempering the air.
- Winter: Cool to cold and milder than inland Korea, thanks to the coastal setting.
- Summer: Hot and humid, and the wettest, stickiest stretch of the year, though the coast makes it relatively cooler than the rest of Korea.
Three days in Gangneung
Day one: Arrive in Gangneung, a city in Gangwon on South Korea's east coast, part of the Yeongdong region. Reach it by rail on the Gangneung Line, with Korea Train Express (KTX) services running from Seoul Station and Cheongnyangni Station to Gangneung Station, or by intercity bus to Gangneung Bus Terminal. Once settled, head for Gyeongpo Beach to get your bearings by the sea.
Day two: Give the day to Jeongdongjin, the coastal spot tied to the Dong Hae train line, where Korail services stop. The area is also linked to the Winter Olympics and the Winter Youth Olympics held in the region, alongside the Olympic Winter Games PyeongChang, so you can trace that legacy along the coast before returning to Gangneung for the evening.
Day three: Use your last day to travel around the city at an easy pace, and if you need assistance, the Korea Travel Hotline and Complaint Center offers help in Korean, English, Chinese and Japanese. For the trip back, note that Haseulla services run only on Fridays and Sundays, while KTX tickets can be booked through KorailTalk.