Chuncheon

Introduction

Chuncheon is the capital of Gangwon Province in South Korea, a city whose roots reach back to the Paleolithic Age. Its economy is built mainly around the service sector, and it generates hydroelectric power through dams including the Soyang Dam and the Uiam Dam.

Before you go

Getting there

Chuncheon is served by two adjacent bus terminals: the Express Bus Terminal (춘천고속버스터미널) and the Intercity Bus Terminal (춘천시외버스터미널). Only two routes use the Express Bus Terminal, from Daegu and Gwangju. Buses from Seoul and most other cities in the country arrive at the Intercity Bus Terminal. From Dongseoul Bus Terminal (동서울터미널), nonstop buses leave regularly throughout the day and take around 70 minutes; slower buses also run, but it is usually worth waiting for a nonstop. Seoul Express Bus Terminal (서울고속버스터미널) has nonstop departures roughly once an hour, and these also use Chuncheon's Intercity Bus Terminal. Bus 8000 from Jamsil Station runs every 40–50 minutes, with some departures making an extra stop at Gangchon. The Intercity Terminal is also served by most major cities in the capital region and the Southern provinces; many routes include flag stops along the way, which are hard to find as a foreign traveller, and there is no extra fare or requirement to get off at them.

From Incheon or Gimpo International Airport, intercity buses run hourly to Chuncheon Intercity Bus Terminal; about half are nonstop, while others stop at Gapyeong and Cheongpyeong, and tickets are sold at the bus booth in the arrivals hall. A cheaper but more tiresome alternative is the AREX followed by the metro to Chuncheon Station. Wonju Airport, which handles a single daily flight from Jeju, has a terminal that works much like a bus station: you check in and then ride a bus across a highway to the military runway. Intercity buses to and from Chuncheon are usually timed to match that flight schedule. By rail, the Gyeongchun Line metro runs from Cheongnyangni Station in northeast Seoul, though most trains depart from Sangbong Station, leaving every 15 minutes or so and taking a little over an hour, with a weekday express service at the same fare. The ITX-Cheongchun heavy rail service departs hourly from Yongsan Station and makes several stops in Seoul, including Cheongnyangni, before continuing to Chuncheon, with intermediate stops varying by train.

Getting around

Taxis are the most efficient way to get around Chuncheon. They are plentiful, and on most busy streets you can flag one within a few minutes by waiting on the sidewalk; you may struggle on the outskirts or during rush hour, when most are already in use. Look for the sign on the roof and the red LED sign with Hangul lettering inside the windshield — if it is lit, the taxi is available. Stick your arm out as one approaches and it will stop. Taxis suit short trips through town and door-to-door journeys, and are especially handy when shopping, since bags can go in the trunk or on the back seat at no extra charge, or when travelling as a group, because the fare is the same regardless of how many people ride. Most drivers speak no English, so have your destination written in Korean to show them.

City buses run fixed routes with clearly marked numbers, but most are not on any kind of schedule, so waits can range from a few minutes to over an hour, and buses can become crowded. Stops are placed throughout the city, though they may be a short walk from where you are staying or from your destination. Buses are the economical choice when travelling alone or heading well outside the city; as a visitor you will need to put the exact cash fare into the slot at the front when boarding. When your stop approaches, press the red button beside the exit door, halfway back on the passenger side, to signal the driver, and exit promptly. Walking works well for the central parts of Chuncheon, though bus stops and attractions can sit a little way apart. Bicycles can be rented from several shops in town, including one near Namchuncheon Station — leave by Exit 1 and continue under the railway tracks — and another at Chuncheon Station Exit 2.

Where to stay

Chuncheon has a wide spread of places to sleep, from budget motels scattered around the city to resort-style hotels and a LEGOLAND Hotel. Motels are common and generally inexpensive. If you want a distinctly South Korean experience, a jjim jil bang is an option: these combine lockers, gender-segregated shower rooms and baths, saunas, snack shops, massage rooms, and shared or gender-segregated sleeping areas on the floor. Be warned that your first night may be hard if you are not used to sleeping on hard floors or through snoring. Jasujung Bool Sauna hands out night clothes at the lobby, rents blankets (arrange this before the shop closes), and also has an indoor PC Bang, an exercise room, and a restaurant.

For a conventional room, the city's hotels and resorts range from business hotels to larger resorts, including Chuncheon Sejong Hotel, Doosan Resort, The Jackson9s Hotel, The Venezia Suite, Sangsangmadang Chuncheon Stay Hotel, LEGOLAND Hotel, Elysian Gangchon, Chuncheon Bears Hotel, Chuncheon Bom Stay, Chuncheon hotel bentley, 1962 Business Hotel, and the Lee Sang Won Museum Museum Stay. Guesthouse Nabiya is a dorm-style option with male or female dorms, attached shower and toilet, air conditioning, Wi-Fi, and a common room with self-service breakfast; note there are only two restaurants within a short walk, so bring your own meal if you want one. Wherever you stay, having a mobile map app helps with bus schedules.

Food & drink

Chuncheon is a city with plenty of places to eat, and several neighbourhoods stand out. Dakgalbi Street is packed with restaurants specialising in dakgalbi, a grilled chicken dish cooked with vegetables and rice cakes on a skillet at your table and finished with a spicy gochujang sauce; most places offer both chair seating and floor seating. Near the back gate of Kangwon National University you'll find a cluster of restaurants covering both Korean and foreign cuisines, while a block east of the bus terminal there are dozens more serving a wide variety of Korean dishes. For something casual, the downtown market has inexpensive food stalls with all kinds of Korean food, plus fresh fruit, sweets, rice cake and meat. A five-day market near the main post office also serves tasty dishes alongside produce and fish.

For a more formal meal, Hajukol in the far eastern part of the urban area serves a multi-course set lunch that appeals visually as well as in taste. Western options include a steakhouse near the E-Mart Bus Terminal, a Western-style buffet with a Korean twist offering steak, an all-you-can-eat salad bar, tacos and fried chicken, and a bakery and book cafe where you can eat bread as a side, order steak, Italian food or special teas, and buy baked snacks and teas to take away. For drinks, Chuncheon has plenty of bars and small local establishments known as "Hof's" serving beer, coffee and a limited food menu. Near the university's back gate you'll find a western-styled bar with darts, cocktails and beer that is popular with students and expats, and another bar with a wide range of cocktails and imported beers, including several on tap and harder-to-find bottles. A major Hof chain, found all over the city, serves mostly Korean beer and bar food in clean, inexpensive surroundings.

What to see and do

Chuncheon's museums reward a few hours each. The Chuncheon National Museum preserves regional heritage spanning the prehistoric era to modern times, while the Animation Museum traces the history of Korean animation and the production process, with media and displays touching on animation from North Korea, Europe, Japan and the United States. The museum sits beside an animation studio, and the sculptures outside, built from used car parts, are a popular photo opportunity. Nearby, the Gangwon Provincial Arboretum combines a four-seasons botanical garden with a forest museum.

• Chuncheon National Museum – regional heritage from prehistoric to modern times; closed Mondays.
• Animation Museum – Korean animation history and production, plus international animation; closed Mondays.
• Gangwon Provincial Arboretum – four-seasons botanical garden and forest museum.

Outdoors, Nami Island is a moon-shaped island reached by a short boat crossing, with metasequoias and nut pines lining the paths, bicycles and tandems for hire, and museums, galleries and souvenir shops; it was a main filming location of the drama Winter Sonata and looks especially romantic when the trees are bare and snow falls. Jungdo, a large island on the Soyang River, is reached by a ferry that runs every half hour and makes a good day trip or picnic, with hiking, ancient Korean huts, bike rentals and a paved trail around one side. The Soyang River Skywalk ends in a circular glass-floored square with wing-like observation decks, and the Soyang Dam, completed in 1973, holds back Soyang Lake, an ideal driving course for its open panorama. History buffs can seek out the tomb site of General Shin Sung-gyeom, the Seven-story Stone Pagoda from the Goryeo Dynasty, Soyangjeong Pavilion, and the Uiamhryu Inseok Memorial Hall. Legoland Korea Resort offers themed areas, rides and a Miniland of Lego replicas of South Korean landmarks.

• Nami Island – boat access, tree-lined paths, bike hire, Winter Sonata filming location.
• Jungdo – ferry access, hiking, ancient huts, bike trails, camping and cabins.
• Soyang River Skywalk – glass-floored walkway with observation decks.
• Soyang Dam – 1973 dam forming Soyang Lake and a scenic drive.
• Historic sites – General Shin Sung-gyeom's tomb, the Seven-story Stone Pagoda, Soyangjeong Pavilion, Uiamhryu Inseok Memorial Hall.
• Legoland Korea Resort – themed areas, rides and Miniland.

Time a visit around the Chuncheon International Mime Festival, held over five days from the Wednesday of the fourth week in May, with international and domestic mime performances plus street performances, mime lessons, body painting shows and mime concerts. The Chuncheon International Marathon in late October circles Uiamho Lake, with a full course and shorter options.

When to go

Chuncheon has a monsoon-influenced humid continental climate, so the seasons shape your trip considerably. Winters are cold and dry, with little precipitation and temperatures that can drop well below freezing; snow is possible, and the dry air makes the chill feel sharp. This is a quiet season for visitors, with fewer crowds and lower prices.

Summers are hot and rainy, as the monsoon brings heavy downpours and high humidity. The heat can be intense, and rain often arrives in concentrated bursts. You can expect lush green landscapes, but bring rain gear and stay flexible with outdoor plans.

Three days in Chuncheon

Day one: Arrive in Chuncheon and get your bearings in Gangwon Province, South Korea. The city sits among lakes formed by Soyang Dam and Uiam Dam, so the water is never far from view. Start with the local food the city is known for, then take an evening stroll along the waterfront. If you have come from Seoul, buses run from Dongseoul Bus Terminal and Seoul Express Bus Terminal, and the Gyeongchun Line connects Cheongnyangni Station and Sangbong Station to Chuncheon Station.

Day two: Head out to the dams and the surrounding scenery. Soyang Dam and Uiam Dam are the anchors of the area's lakes, and the landscapes around them are what draw visitors from across East Asia. The city's fame was boosted by the Korean drama Winter Sonata, which was filmed in the region, so you may recognise some of the views. Return to the city centre in the evening for another meal of Chuncheon's signature dishes.

Day three: Use your last day to explore at an easier pace before departing. Chuncheon has roots going back to the Paleolithic Age, so there is a long history beneath the modern city. When it is time to leave, buses and trains run back toward Seoul, and the ITX and Gyeongchun Line serve Chuncheon Station. If you are flying, Incheon and Gimpo International Airport are reachable via AREX and connecting transport, while Wonju Airport and Jeju are also options for onward travel.