Phnom Penh
Introduction
You will find yourself in the heart of Cambodia’s primate city, a bustling center for politics, economy, industry, and culture. The name of this capital reflects its history, honoring both Lady Penh, the city's founder, and Wat Phnom, a local Buddhist temple.
Situated at the confluence of the Mekong and Tonlé Sap rivers, the city serves as the starting point for the Bassac River. You can explore the seat of the monarchy, which is located within the Royal Palace grounds.
Before you go
Prepare yourself for a city that offers an edgy experience, where you can absorb local color and witness vibrant street life. While the skyline has transformed with modern high-rises, some French colonial buildings remain tucked away from the bustling market stalls and parking spaces. You should expect hot and humid weather, which may include late afternoon showers during the rainy season. Navigating the city involves dealing with chaotic traffic, dusty roads, and occasional strains on the electricity supply.
To navigate the local environment safely, keep your belongings secure when using a tuk-tuk or motorbike taxi by placing them toward the center of the vehicle or in front of the driver. Be cautious of scammers in tourist areas who may invite you to dinner or "fake monks" soliciting funds. When encountering beggars, a firm but polite refusal is effective; however, if you choose to be generous to older or disabled individuals, your gift may be met with a blessing.
Getting there
You can arrive in Phnom Penh by plane at Techo International Airport, which replaced the former airport in late 2025. To reach the city center from the terminal, you can take the Airport Express Bus (AEB) to several stops along Samdech Techo Hun Sen Boulevard. To find your bus, walk across the parking lot at the end of the arrivals area and use a mobile app to track its location. If you choose to travel by taxi, ensure you have small denomination notes in US dollars; inspect these for any rips or tears before handing them over to avoid issues with change.
For regional travel, well-paved highways connect Phnom Penh to nearby cities and border crossings. You can find various bus companies throughout the city near the central market, the night market, or on Street 109. Trains also provide daily service from locations such as Sihanoukville and Battambang. If you prefer water travel, several speedboat options are available for trips toward Vietnam's Mekong Delta.
Getting around
Navigating the city is relatively straightforward as the layout is logical and main streets are in good condition. However, you should exercise caution when traveling on foot, as smaller streets and footpaths can be rutted or cluttered with debris and parked motorbikes. When crossing roads, remember that pedestrians often come last; you must judge gaps in traffic carefully and remain alert to motorcycles moving between rows of cars. Be especially cautious at night, as there is almost no street lighting off the main boulevards.
For motorized transport, several options are available depending on your preference for convenience or atmosphere:
- Buses: These offer an air-conditioned way to travel during the day while being shielded from noise and dust. You can use a mobile app to track routes and see live arrival times.
- Tuk-tuks: These are plentiful and affordable. For a more streamlined experience, you can use ride-hailing apps like PassApp or Grab to book metered tuk-tuks, which removes the need for haggling. Electric tuk-tuks are also available via a specific booking app.
- Taxis: You can find these in tourist areas like the riverfront. Since many are non-metered, you should agree on the fare in advance.
- Motorbike Taxis (motodops): These provide a cheap way to get around, though they do not provide helmets and fares increase at night or with extra passengers.
- Bicycles and Cyclos: You can rent a bicycle to explore further afield, while the traditional three-wheeled pedal cycle-rickshaws offer a slower, scenic way to see the city.
Where to stay
You can find a variety of budget-friendly accommodations throughout the city, particularly in the Lakeside area near the former Beoung Kak lake. While many guesthouses in this district have closed, several remain and offer essential services such as laundry, internet, and money exchange. Other affordable options are located along Street 258, Street 51, Street 111, and Street 172, while Street 278 now hosts a collection of budget hostels and bars. For those seeking a social atmosphere, some guesthouses offer communal spaces, while others provide private rooms in the heart of the city or near the riverside.
For a more comfortable stay, mid-range options provide amenities such as swimming pools, tropical gardens, and stylish furnishings. You can choose from boutique hotels with Asian fusion kitchens, colonial buildings featuring lush grounds, or apartment-style accommodations. If you prefer a more upscale experience, luxury resorts offer extensive facilities including tennis courts, horseback riding, and expansive pool areas.
Food & drink
Explore a diverse culinary landscape in Phnom Penh that blends local flavors with international influences. You can find French-influenced dining, as well as Thai, Vietnamese, and Indonesian dishes throughout the city. While staples like fried rice, banana pancakes, and pizza are easy to find, a recent influx of Chinese capital has introduced a variety of regionally focused Chinese cuisines. For those seeking more adventurous options, local markets and streets offer unique treats such as duck embryo eggs, grilled pig ears, chicken claws, gizzards, and even various insects like grasshoppers or grubs.
Depending on your preference for atmosphere, you can choose from a wide range of dining environments:
- Experience the local scene with hearty curries and noodles at small stalls or visit traditional Indonesian eateries.
- Relax in more comfortable settings where you can enjoy wood-fired pizzas, club sandwiches, or specialized cuisines like Indian and Nepali food.
- Explore the growing BKK1 area for a variety of multinational options or find a cozy courtyard to enjoy freshly baked goods and coffee.
- Visit specialty cafes, including a cat cafe or French-style establishments serving coffee and pastries.
- Enjoy the evening scene at various riverside bars or rooftop sky bars offering cocktails with views over the city.
What to see and do
Explore the city's history through its architecture and somber landmarks. You can visit the National Museum of Cambodia to view an extensive collection of art from the "golden age" of Angkor, including statues of Hindu gods, ancient stelae, and a central courtyard featuring the original statue of the "Leper King." Nearby, the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda offer a glimpse into traditional Cambodian design and 19th-century construction; note that modest dress is required to enter these grounds. For a look at more recent history, visit the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, located in a former school turned prison, or travel to the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek to see a Buddhist stupa containing thousands of skulls. Other significant sites include the former M-13 prison and the city's Independence and Liberation Memorials.
Experience the local atmosphere along Sisowath Quay, a riverside promenade featuring manicured lawns and palm trees where you can witness early morning exercise sessions or enjoy the evening's lively atmosphere. You can also visit the Olympic Stadium to see its modern architecture and view locals participating in dance and exercise classes at night. Other notable architectural landmarks include the Grand Post Office Building, Central Market, and Raffles Le Royal Hotel.
When to go
You can experience Phnom Penh's tropical climate throughout the year, though the atmosphere shifts significantly between the two seasons. During the dry season from December to April, you will find more comfortable nights as temperatures drop and humidity levels decrease. While your days remain hot, the minimal rainfall provides some of the most pleasant conditions for exploring the city.
From May to November, you will experience the southwest monsoon season. During these months, moisture-laden winds from the Gulf of Thailand and Indian Ocean bring high temperatures combined with high humidity and frequent rain, making your travels feel wet and muggy.
Three days in Phnom Penh
Day one, you begin your journey in the heart of the city by visiting Wat Phnom. You can then explore the area around the Royal Palace and the nearby French Quarter to experience the local atmosphere.
Day two, you head toward the riverside to see the Mekong and Bassac River. You can navigate these waters or take a tuk tuk to explore different parts of the city while enjoying the scenery.
Day three, you prepare for your departure from Phnom Penh. You can arrange transportation via an airport express bus or use a ride-hailing app to reach Techo International Airport.