Manas

Introduction

Manas is a village in the Talas District of Talas Region in Kyrgyzstan, and it serves as the seat of that district. It is a rural settlement rather than a city, so you should arrive expecting a quiet base for exploring the surrounding region rather than a dense urban centre.

Before you go

Manas works best as a stopover on the route between Bishkek and Osh, so plan your visit around how it fits into a longer journey rather than as a destination in its own right. Check your onward transport before you arrive, since the town's main value is as a convenient hub connecting the two cities.

Getting there

Manas sits on the main road between Bishkek and Osh, so any marshrutka or shared taxi running between the two capitals passes through. Be aware that the fare to Manas may be as much as the fare all the way to Osh, so you may not save much by breaking the journey.

From Osh, shared taxis leave from the New Bus Station (Novy Avtovokzal), which lies somewhat out of town; you can reach it by taxi from the bazaar. From Naryn, the trip is long and involves a change: take a taxi to Kazarman first, then look for a marshrutka onward to Manas, or a shared taxi if no marshrutka is running. Negotiate directly with the driver rather than through intermediaries. Hitch-hiking from Naryn is a feasible and probably much cheaper alternative, though it helps to carry a tent or know where you can make an intermediate stop. Another option is the Kochkor–Kyzyl-Oy route towards Toktogul and on to Jalal-Abad. Marshrutkas also run from Toktogul.

Getting around

Manas is a small town, and you should not expect a rail, metro, tram or scheduled city bus network to get around it. In practice, you cover the town on foot, and take a taxi or shared taxi for anything beyond a short stroll. For longer hops within the region, marshrutkas (shared minibuses) and shared taxis are the standard modes — the same vehicles you would use to leave town. Treat the town primarily as a stop on a longer journey rather than a place with an urban transit system to master.

Carry cash in Kyrgyz som, since marshrutkas and shared taxis are paid in cash, either at a fixed rate per seat or a negotiated fare. Fares for shared taxis and private hires are negotiable, and travellers report being quoted inflated rates, so agree the fare before you set off and confirm whether a quote is per person or for the whole vehicle. On the Naryn route, the CBT in Naryn quotes a taxi to Kazarman at an exorbitant rate that can be negotiated down, and in Kazarman a man who speaks English organises (or claims to organise) shared taxis to Manas at an outrageous per-seat price; the advice is to ignore him and negotiate with the driver personally. For early departures, plan to be at the departure point ahead of time. If your plans involve flying, note that Manas International Airport is a separate location near Bishkek, so treat it as a Bishkek-area gateway and arrange onward road transport — marshrutka or shared taxi — toward Manas from there.

Where to stay

Jalal-Abad has a handful of places to sleep, ranging from a sociable guesthouse to a modern hostel and a few full-service hotels. If you want to meet other travellers, the guesthouse Etno Dom is a cozy option run by sociable Kyrgyz hosts, with a tasty breakfast of pancakes and cottage cheese and wifi to keep you connected. For a budget bed that is cheap, very clean and modern, Novo Hostel on Shevchenko has helpful and kind staff; note that they do not speak English but rely on Google Translate to communicate.

• Kok-ART Hotel Jalal-Abad, on the east side of town near the hospital, is one of the nicer places in town, with a terrace and garden where you can have a big spread for breakfast, plus wifi, an in-room coffee-maker, cable TV and even an airport shuttle.
• Tyan' Shan' on Lenin Street has a Kyrgyz exterior and 1950s-era decor inside, an outdoor pool, a restaurant and bar, wifi, and beer and karaoke in the garden; it sits right next to Bereke Bazary market.
• Hotel Dostuk, a little south of town in the village of Kumush Aziz, is a four-story hotel along the provincial road with a restaurant, bar and wifi; interiors are clean but somewhat stodgy.

Food & drink

Eating in Manas is a straightforward, local affair, with a couple of places worth knowing about. Kafe Bayrukha serves plenty of good local food, from something resembling a hot pot soup to meat dishes, pastries and ice cream, making it a solid choice for a filling meal at any point in the day.

For something more animated, Restoran "Bishkek" pairs hearty meals with Kyrgyz karaoke, so you can eat and sing in the same outing. The drinking side of the city isn't covered in the listings here, so plan your evening around the food and the karaoke rather than expecting a bar scene laid out for you.

What to see and do

In the centre of town, the Barpy Teatr is worth a look for its Soviet-era theatre building. Right next to it is Toktogul Satylganov Park, a shady spot with statues and old, creaky rides where you can stop and rest for a while.

• Barpy Teatr — a Soviet theatre to take in
• Toktogul Satylganov Park — shaded paths, statues and ageing amusement rides beside the theatre
• Royal Spa — a place to try a Kyrgyz spa treatment

Three days in Manas

Day one: Start in Bishkek, where you can arrange transport and get your bearings before heading toward Talas Region. From Bishkek you can reach Talas District, the area around Manas, by shared taxi or marshrutka; for longer legs, the New Bus Station (Novy Avtovokzal) is the hub for onward travel. Treat the journey as part of the trip and carry enough Kyrgyz som for fares, since fares are often paid in cash. If you need help with arrangements or English-speaking contacts, CBT offices can assist.

• Check transport options from Bishkek toward Talas District
• Use the New Bus Station (Novy Avtovokzal) for longer routes
• Carry cash for marshrutka and shared-taxi fares

Day two: Spend the day in and around Manas, the village associated with the epic of the same name. It is a place to slow down and take in the setting rather than rush between sights. If you are continuing onward, ask locally about routes toward Naryn, Kochkor, Kazarman, Kyzyl-Oy, Toktogul, Jalal-Abad or Osh; some connections require negotiating with drivers, and hitching is another option on quieter stretches. Keep Google Translate handy for practical conversations.

• Explore Manas at an unhurried pace
• Ask about onward transport toward Naryn, Kochkor, Kazarman, Kyzyl-Oy, Toktogul, Jalal-Abad or Osh
• Negotiate fares with drivers where marshrutkas do not run

Day three: Use the morning to sort your onward plans. From Osh you can find transport toward Bishkek and other points, while from Naryn and Kochkor there are connections deeper into the country. If you are flying out, allow time to reach Manas International Airport. In Bishkek, Etno Dom and Novo Hostel on Shevchenko are useful bases, and CBT can help with English-language advice. Check schedules the day before you travel, since services can be infrequent.

• Confirm onward transport from Osh, Naryn or Kochkor
• Allow time to reach Manas International Airport
• Use Etno Dom or Novo Hostel on Shevchenko as a base in Bishkek