Uruma

Introduction

Uruma stretches along part of the east coast of southern Okinawa Island, out across the Katsuren Peninsula and over the eight Yokatsu Islands. The city took its present shape when Gushikawa and Ishikawa merged with Katsuren and Yonashiro, and it holds a dense layering of Ryukyuan history: Katsuren Castle, Agena Castle, Iha Castle and the Iha Shell Mound are all within its bounds, and the Yokatsu Islands contain numerous sites important to the Ryukyuan religion.

The Mid-Sea Road, which crosses the ocean to link the Yokatsu Islands with the main island, has become the symbol of Uruma. The city is also home to the largest venue for Okinawan bullfighting, giving you a reason to time a visit around a bout if you want to see a local tradition in full swing.

Before you go

Uruma spreads across the central part of Okinawa's main island, where the coastline alternates between sandy beaches and rocky stretches and the interior is given over to farmland and low hills. The city was formed by merging several smaller towns and villages, so it reads less as a single urban centre than as a string of communities along the coast and up into the hills. Expect a subtropical climate: summers are hot and humid, winters mild enough that you rarely need more than a light layer, and the rainy season arrives in late spring.

Because the city is spread out and public transport between its communities is limited, plan your movements in advance and consider basing yourself where you want to spend most of your time. English is not widely spoken outside the main visitor areas, so carrying a translation app or a few printed place names in Japanese will make things easier.

Getting there

Check current transport options before you travel.

Getting around

Uruma stretches across the eastern coast of southern Okinawa Island, the Katsuren Peninsula and the Yokatsu Islands, so how you get around depends on where you're headed. There is no train service in Uruma itself; the nearest station is in Naha, and from there you continue by taxi or bus. Treat rail as a way to reach Naha rather than a way to move around the city. Local buses cover most areas and are described as frequent, with fares paid on board, and taxis are available and can be booked through apps such as JapanTaxi and DiDi. Cash is advised, as some drivers may not accept cards.

Because the city is sprawling, walking works best for exploring individual districts, beaches and sightseeing spots rather than for getting between them. For isolated beaches and scenic spots, a rental car is the most practical option; cars can be picked up at Naha Airport or locally. Ferry services connect the major islands, and the Kaichu-doro, a sea road crossing the water from the Katsuren Peninsula, links Henza, Hamahiga, Miyagi and Ikei by road, while Tsuken Island is reachable by high-speed boat. Direct buses run from Naha Airport to Uruma and are reportedly frequent, though journey estimates vary, so allow extra time.

Where to stay

Food & drink

What to see and do

Uruma's sights lean toward history and the outdoors. Start with Katsuren Castle, a castle site in the Katsurenhaebaru area that you can explore at your own pace. For a second dose of local history, head to Agena Park, where you'll find the remains of a castle dating to the 14th century set within a public park.

• Katsuren Castle — castle ruins in the Katsurenhaebaru district
• Agena Park and Castle — park with the remains of a 14th-century castle
• Mount Ishikawa — a hill rising 204 m, the city's highest point, with hiking trails leading to the summit

If you want to stretch your legs, Mount Ishikawa is the city's highest point, and hiking trails take you up to the top for a walk above the surrounding area.

Three days in Uruma

Day one: Base yourself in Uruma on Okinawa Island and get your bearings across its four former towns — Gushikawa, Ishikawa, Katsuren and Yonashiro — which now make up the city. Start with the Ryukyuan heritage of the Katsuren Peninsula, where the ruins of Katsuren Castle, Agena Castle and Iha Castle sit among the sites tied to the island's old kingdoms, and the Iha Shell Mound adds a layer of earlier history. Expect signage and local conversation mostly in Japanese, with English limited outside the main sights, so a translation app helps. Check into your accommodation and ask your host about the best way to reach the Yokatsu Islands the next day.

• Katsuren Castle
• Agena Castle
• Iha Castle
• Iha Shell Mound

Day two: Cross to the Yokatsu Islands along the Mid Sea Road, the causeway route that links Kaichu, Henza, Miyagi and Ikei. Take your time on each island — the pace is slow and the scenery is the point — and treat yourself to an Okinawan lunch along the way. Because public transport is sparse, a rental car or taxi is the practical choice; JapanTaxi and DiDi both operate, and cash is useful for the smaller places. If you want a beach day instead, Tsuken Island is reached by ferry rather than by road.

• Mid Sea Road
• Kaichu
• Henza
• Miyagi
• Ikei
• Tsuken Island

Day three: Give the morning to the parts of Uruma you have not yet seen, whether that means more of the Katsuren Peninsula or a wander through Gushikawa and Ishikawa. Local buses run but are infrequent, so plan your return to Naha Airport with time to spare — a direct taxi is the simplest option if you are carrying luggage. There is no train on Okinawa, so arrange your transfer in advance rather than relying on finding one on the day.

• Gushikawa
• Ishikawa
• Naha Airport