Yamaguchi
Introduction
Yamaguchi is the capital of Yamaguchi Prefecture in Japan, and it spreads across a large area for a city of its size, giving it a mix of urban centre and open countryside. The population is spread thinly across that space, so you can expect quiet streets and a relaxed pace rather than the density of Japan's major metropolises.
Before you go
Yamaguchi is the seat of its prefectural government, though it is not a large city. It was planned as a capital by Hiroyo Ouchi, the regional lord who placed his government here in 1360, and it grew by imitating the elegance of Kyoto, the old capital of Japan. As the Ouchi family prospered, the city flourished and earned the nickname "Kyoto in the West"; when Kyoto was devastated by the Onin war, Yamaguchi developed as an alternative capital, attracting cultured people and foreigners, and became so successful that it was practically the capital of Japan. The destruction of the ruling family in 1551 caused the city to decline, but many things in the city still suggest its medieval prosperity. Before you go, it helps to know that the local tourist association runs a multilingual guide site, useful for planning around the city's medieval sites. Expect a compact, walkable place rather than a metropolis, and plan your visit with its historical role as a would-be capital in mind.Getting there
Yamaguchi is served by two main train stations: Yamaguchi Station in the city centre and Shin-Yamaguchi Station, about 12.7 km to the southwest, which sits on the San'yo Shinkansen. Regular trains link the two in 15–25 minutes. Shin-Yamaguchi sees roughly one Nozomi or Sakura service an hour plus an all-stations Kodama. Combining bullet and local trains, you can reach Yamaguchi in about 60–70 minutes from Hiroshima, about 70 minutes from Fukuoka, about 2 hours 30 minutes from Osaka, and about 5 hours from Tokyo. If you hold a Japan Rail Pass, travel on the Sakura and Hikari services instead, which take slightly longer; you will usually need to change trains if coming from east of Osaka.
By air, Yamaguchi Ube Airport in Ube is the prefecture's largest airport, with domestic flights from Tokyo Haneda. Shuttle buses run between the airport and Shin-Yamaguchi bullet train station.
Getting around
Yamaguchi has two main train stations that serve very different purposes, and your choice of arrival point shapes how you move around afterward. Yamaguchi Station is centrally located, while Shin-Yamaguchi Station lies to the southwest and is the stop on the San'yō Shinkansen bullet train line; regular trains link the two in roughly fifteen to twenty-five minutes. The JR Yamaguchi Line runs through the city and is the backbone of rail travel for sightseeing, with the key stops for visitors being Yuda Onsen Station, which serves the Yuda Onsen hot spring area, and Yamaguchi Station itself. If you are heading to Joeiji Temple, note that it is closer to Miyano Station than to the central station.
Yamaguchi has no metro or tram network, so buses fill the gaps that trains leave, with operators such as Bocho Kotsu and Bocho Bus serving routes beyond the rail lines. Many sites can be reached on foot, but the walks may be longer than many tourists would like, so it is advised to take a bus or rent a bicycle; there is a rentacycle shop across the street from Yamaguchi Station. Some sights are not reachable by public transport at all — Motonosumi Shrine, for example, has no direct public transportation, and the practical approach is a taxi ride of about twenty minutes from Hitomaru Station on the JR Sanin Main Line. Plan on conventional taxis for these gaps in coverage.
Where to stay
Most of the city's accommodation clusters in the Yuda Onsen area, which is reached via JR Yuda Onsen Station on the JR Yamaguchi Line — a short train ride from Yamaguchi Station followed by about ten minutes on foot. Some places will arrange transfers to and from Shin-Yamaguchi Station, so it is worth asking when you book.
- Comfort Hotel Shin Yamaguchi — Western-style rooms with a free continental breakfast and Internet access, practically on the doorstep of Shin-Yamaguchi Station.
- Matsudaya Hotel — a beautifully sculpted hotel set in a garden dating from the Edo period, with natural hot springs and seasonal cuisine.
- Teshima Ryokan — a ryokan in the Yuda Onsen area.
Food & drink
For baked goods, head to Xavier Campana in Kameyamachō, while R. Paysan in Ajisu serves Italian food. Near the north entrance of Shin-Yamaguchi Station, ANDO Kissho offers cocktails and creative takes on Japanese hors d'oeuvres. In the heart of Yamaguchi, Denki Bran is a discreet, sophisticated bar in Yudaonsen serving gourmet bar food and cocktails, and is noted for its extensive range of authentic single malts. The atmosphere is pleasant, with a hint of smooth jazz.What to see and do
Yamaguchi rewards slow wandering, with most of its sights clustered in the centre or a short bus or train ride away. Start at Rurikōji, whose five-story pagoda has served as a symbol of the city since it was built in the fifteenth century; the temple grounds, known as Kōzan Park, also hold the tombs of several medieval lords. Nearby, Tojun-ji is a historic temple whose gate and Kannon-do Hall are registered Important Cultural Properties, and it forms part of a Kannon pilgrimage route. A little further out, Joeiji Temple is known for a garden laid out by the Zen monk and artist Sesshu. The city's religious heritage spans centuries and faiths. Yamaguchi Daijingu was founded as a branch of Ise Shrine and, like its parent, is rebuilt every twenty years; it drew Edo-period pilgrims from western Japan who could not make the journey to Ise. The Xavier Memorial Church honours St. Francis Xavier, who spent close to a year in Yamaguchi as a missionary in the sixteenth century; its white interior and angular sea-blue windows were designed by an Italian architect, and a museum on the first floor tells his story. For something contemporary, the Yamaguchi Center for Arts and Media hosts stage performances, exhibitions, film screenings, sound events and workshops. Outdoors, the Ichinosaka River is lined with cherry blossoms in spring and glows with fireflies in summer. If you are in town in early August, the Lantern Star Festival fills the city centre with red lanterns.Three days in Yamaguchi
Day one: Arrive in Yamaguchi and get your bearings. If you are coming by rail, Yamaguchi Station is your gateway, reachable on the Sanyo Shinkansen with the Nozomi, Sakura, Kodama or Hikari services; combining Hiroshima, Fukuoka, Osaka or Tokyo into your trip is straightforward, and a Japan Rail Pass covers the journey. You can also fly into Yamaguchi Ube Airport via Tokyo Haneda, with a shuttle connection onward. Once settled, head for Yuda Onsen, the hot spring district, and use the JR Yamaguchi Line to reach Yuda Onsen Station. Spend the evening wandering the onsen streets and easing into the pace of the city.
Day two: Give the day to Yamaguchi's history. This is the city associated with Hiroyo Ouchi and the Ouchi clan, whose cultural patronage drew comparisons with Kyoto. The Onin War shaped the region's fortunes, and the layers of that past are what you are here to see. Joeiji Temple, reached via Miyano Station, is a fine place to slow down and take in the temple grounds. Bocho Kotsu buses make getting around practical when you would rather not walk.
Day three: Use your last day to fill in what you missed and to travel onward. Expect the pace of a smaller city, which makes a final morning of wandering easy before you depart. From Yamaguchi Station you can continue deeper into Yamaguchi Prefecture or head back toward Hiroshima, Fukuoka, Osaka or Tokyo, depending on where your journey takes you next.