Yonago
Introduction
Yonago is a city in western Tottori Prefecture, Japan, and serves as the commercial center of the western part of the prefecture. It is the prefecture's second largest city after Tottori.
Before you go
Yonago's local tourist association runs a guide site, but it is written in Japanese only; an integrated Google Translate tool lets you read it in your own language. Use it to check practical details before you set out, since English-language information may be limited elsewhere.
Getting there
Most travellers reach Yonago by train. The city sits on the San'in Main Line and the Hakubi Line, and Yonago Station is the arrival point for all of them. The Limited Express Yakumo links Yonago with Niimi, Takahashi, Sōja, Kurashiki and Okayama, and Okayama is your nearest shinkansen stop. From Tokyo, the Sunrise Izumo overnight train runs to Yonago and takes about nine hours; Japan Rail Pass holders can use the carpet spaces without charge but pay extra for a bunk or private room. Along the San'in Main Line, the Super Matsukaze and Super Oki Limited Expresses head east to Kurayoshi and Tottori and west to Matsue, Izumo, Ōda and eventually Shin-Yamaguchi. The Rapid Tottori Liner and the Aqua Liner serve Tottori and Masuda respectively, while local trains are enough for Matsue and Izumoshi. As an alternative to the national pass, JR West sells two regional rail passes covering Yonago to temporary visitors with foreign passports: the San'in-Okayama Pass and the wider San'yō-San'in Pass.
By air, Miho-Yonago Airport straddles the border of Yonago and Sakaiminato, roughly 15 km from the centre, with airport buses and trains connecting it to the city; it handles flights from Tokyo Haneda, Seoul Incheon and Hong Kong, and some people call it Yonago-Kitarō Airport after the manga character created by the late Shigeru Mizuki. Izumo Airport is a more distant option at the other end of Lake Shinji, with flights to Haneda, Osaka-Itami, Nagoya-Komaki, Fukuoka and Oki; by car it is about 45 minutes along the San'in Expressway, or you can take a bus to JR Matsue Station and continue by local or Limited Express train. Yonago Station is also served by many highway buses, including an overnight Willer Express service to Shinjuku, the Izumo-Matsue-Yonago Dream Nagoya Gō, the Momotarō Express from Okayama, the Merry Bird from Hiroshima (note that a separate Merry Bird runs on the Tottori Line), and various Nihon Kōtsū routes within Kansai for Kyoto, Osaka and Kobe.
Getting around
JR Yonago Station is the hub for everything: trains, highway buses, local buses and taxis all converge there, so most journeys start and end at the station. The San'in Main Line runs east–west, linking you with Tottori to the east and Matsue and Izumo to the west, while the Sakai Line heads northwest toward Sakaiminato and the Hakubi Line branches south from Hōki-Daisen toward Okayama, where you can pick up the shinkansen. Limited expresses such as the Yakumo, Super Matsukaze and Super Oki serve the city, local trains are sufficient and economical for shorter hops to Matsue and Izumoshi, and the Sunrise Izumo overnight train connects Yonago with Tokyo. If you hold a foreign passport, JR West's regional passes — the San'in-Okayama Pass and the wider San'yō-San'in Pass — are an alternative to the national Japan Rail Pass.
Central Yonago is mostly flat, and the area around the station is walkable for nearby shops, restaurants and services, with some historic sites including the castle ruins within reach on foot; for places farther out such as Kaike Onsen along Miho Bay, you'll need a bus, train or taxi. City loop services, the Dandan Bus and Donguri Korokoro Bus, charge a flat fare per ride, and the Three Day Wooden Bus Ticket covers most prefecture buses (excluding express buses) and includes discounts at sightseeing spots — buy it at bus terminals and information centres at JR Tottori, Kurayoshi and Yonago stations. For Daisen National Park, the seasonal Daisen Loop Bus runs from late April to late November, mostly on weekends and holidays with daily service during Golden Week, the first three weeks of August, and late October through early November; most departures leave from the station's bus platform no. 4 and stop at Kaike Onsen, Daisenji Temple, the Shoji Ueda Museum of Photography and Tottori Prefectural Flower Park. Fares are paid on the bus, but one- and two-day passes must be bought in advance at places such as the Nihon Kotsu Office at Yonago Bus Station Terminal, the Yonago Tourism Office at JR Yonago Station, and hotels and tourist facilities along the route. Taxis cluster around the station for short trips or when bus schedules don't fit your plans, and because some services are limited, check timetables ahead, especially for seasonal routes. From Miho-Yonago Airport, about 15 km from the centre, airport buses and trains connect you to the city centre and onward to Yonago Station.
Where to stay
Yonago's accommodation is concentrated in the Kaikeonsen hot-spring area, reached in about twenty minutes by Kaike Line bus from Yonago Station. Staying here puts you within easy reach of the onsen baths and gives you a base for exploring the surrounding area.
Lodgings in Kaikeonsen run to traditional Japanese-style hot-spring hotels, where you can expect tatami rooms and the chance to soak in the baths. At Kaike Tsuruya, the nine-floor East Building offers views of Daisen, while the six-floor South Building looks out over a serene courtyard — a reminder to ask about the view when you book, as the outlook varies by building.
Food & drink
Yonago has plenty of chain restaurants and local shops serving both Japanese and international food, so you can eat simply or seek out something more regional without straying far from the centre.
For an evening out, head to Asahimachi, the city's small but busy entertainment district. Karaoke is the main draw here, and the bars stay lively into the night.
What to see and do
Yonago rewards slow wandering. Start with Kanda Shrine in Bakurōmachi, a short walk from the station or a couple of minutes from Bakurōmachi Station on the JR Sakai Line. Minatoyama Park and the ruins of Yonago Castle are both an easy walk from Yonago Station, and the park looks out over the Sea of Japan. For a dose of culture, the Yonago City Museum of Art sits in Nakamachi beside the library and across from City Hall, and the Fukada Residence Garden is worth seeking out as the oldest garden in the Sanin region.
At Kaike Beach, reached by bus from the station, you can soak in relaxing indoor and outdoor onsens. Elsewhere in the city you can join a traditional Japanese tea ceremony, hunt for a second-hand kimono and take a kimono-wearing lesson, or visit some of the local shrines and temples. Further afield, drive to nearby Sakaiminato for ocean views and fresh seafood, or head up Mt. Daisen for hiking in summer and skiing in winter.
When to go
Yonago has a humid subtropical climate, so the weather shapes how you plan your days. Summers are hot and humid, and July stands out as one of the wettest months of the year — expect heavy rain at times alongside the heat, so line up indoor options and bring rain gear. September is the other particularly wet month, when heavy rain is a real possibility; build flexibility into your plans and keep waterproof clothing handy.
Winters are cool rather than severe, but precipitation continues through the season. Pack layers for chilly days and be ready for wet weather whenever you visit, since rain is spread across the year.
Three days in Yonago
Day one: Arrive at Yonago Station, the hub for the San Main Line and Hakubi Line, and use it as your base for the days ahead. If you are coming from Tokyo, the Sunrise Izumo is one way to reach the region, and the Limited Express Yakumo connects Yonago with Okayama via stops such as Niimi, Takahashi, Sōja and Kurashiki. A Japan Rail Pass can cover much of this travel. Settle in and get your bearings around the station area before planning the rest of your trip.
Day two: Use the Super Matsukaze and Super Oki Limited Expresses to explore further along the coast and inland. Kurayoshi, Matsue and Izumo are all within reach, and the Rapid Tottori Liner and Aqua Liner serve other routes in Tottori Prefecture. If you are heading toward Izumoshi or Masuda, these trains make the connections straightforward. Keep Google Translate handy, as most signage and announcements are in Japanese and English is not always widely spoken.
Day three: Head toward Tottori or Okayama depending on your onward plans. The JR West Okayama Pass can be useful if you are continuing in that direction, and the Hakubi Line links Yonago with the Okayama area. If your journey takes you toward Shin Yamaguchi or beyond, check which limited express services fit your schedule. Allow time to return to Yonago Station before your departure.