Kodaira

Introduction

Kodaira is a city in the western portion of the Tokyo Metropolis, Japan. It is a compact place, covering just over twenty square kilometres, and it sits within easy reach of the wider Tokyo area while retaining its own identity as a western Metropolis community.

Before you go

Getting there

From downtown Tokyo, head for the Seibu-Shinjuku Line, which intersects JR's Yamanote Line among others. From Takadanobaba Station or Seibu-Shinjuku Station, take an express train west towards Kodaira; choosing a local train makes your trip significantly longer. An express takes around 20 to 25 minutes from Takadanobaba Station to Kodaira Station.

• Seibu-Shinjuku Line: express from Takadanobaba or Seibu-Shinjuku west to Kodaira Station.
• Alternative route: Chūō Line from Shinjuku to Kokubunji Station, transfer to the Seibu-Tamako Line to Hagiyama Station, then transfer to the Seibu-Haijima Line for one stop to Kodaira.

Getting around

Kodaira has no metro or tram of its own, so getting around means trains, buses, taxis and your own two feet. The Seibu Railway network is the backbone of local travel, supplemented by one JR East line. The Seibu Shinjuku Line serves Hana-Koganei and Kodaira stations and is the line you will most likely use to reach the city from downtown Tokyo; the Seibu Tamako Line serves Hitobashi-Gakuen and Ōmekaidō; the Seibu Kokubunji Line serves Takanodai and Ogawa; the Seibu Haijima Line serves Kodaira, Hagiyama and Ogawa; and the JR East Musashino Line serves Shin-Kodaira, giving the city a connection to the JR network. Because several lines meet at shared stations — Kodaira and Ogawa are each served by more than one Seibu line — you can often change trains within the city rather than travelling into Tokyo and back out again. Note that Seibu is a private railway separate from JR, so a JR pass or ticket will not cover Seibu trains and vice versa.

For fares, buy a single ticket at the machine for each journey or tap in and out with a rechargeable IC card such as Suica or PASMO, which is accepted across both the Seibu and JR networks and is the least fuss since fares are calculated by distance. If you plan to ride a lot in one day, ask at the station about a Seibu one-day pass, which is separate from JR offerings. Local buses fill in the gaps between stations and residential districts and connect Kodaira with neighbouring municipalities such as Higashiyamato, Higashimurayama, Higashikurume, Koganei, Kokubunji, Nishitokyo and Tachikawa; stops are typically close to stations, so a common pattern is a train to the nearest station followed by a bus for the last stretch. Pay by IC card or cash, taking a numbered ticket when boarding if you are unsure of the fare. Taxis are readily available at the stations and suit short trips with luggage, late-night journeys or awkward destinations; ride-hailing apps operate in the Tokyo area but usually dispatch an ordinary metered taxi, so the experience is much the same as hailing one at a rank, and taxis are the most expensive everyday option. Walking is genuinely useful: Kodaira is compact and largely flat on the Musashino Terrace, and from a station you can usually reach the surrounding streets, local museums and everyday services on foot. The better-known attractions — Koganei Park, the Edo-Tokyo Open Air Architectural Museum, the Hirakushi Denchu Art Museum and the Gas Museum — are spread out, so you will generally combine walking with a train or bus ride. Pack comfortable shoes; the climate is mild enough for walking most of the year, with warm, humid summers and cool winters with little or no snow.

Where to stay

Food & drink

Kodaira's eating options cluster around Hanakoganei, where you'll find a handful of casual spots worth seeking out. For Indian food, head to Swagat Hanakoganei, a solid restaurant that serves lunch and dinner throughout the week; the lunch deal is good value and the naan is notably large. Right beside it is Ciao em Cafe, a Vietnamese cafe and restaurant whose lunch set is worth ordering, especially the curry, and whose coffee pudding is a highlight. Note that it closes on Mondays.

• Café Laguras sits on the Tamako Bike Path next to Ajisai Park, serving cake, coffee and lunch; in good weather the outdoor seating is particularly relaxing.
• Kogane Chaya, also on the biking path, is easy to spot thanks to the tuk-tuk parked outside. It has a friendly atmosphere, sells a rotating variety of foods depending on the day, and doubles as a bar at night, getting lively on weekends. It's closed on Tuesdays.

What to see and do

When to go

Kodaira has a humid subtropical climate, so plan around warm, humid summers and cool winters. Summer heat and humidity peak on average in August, when conditions turn sticky and the surrounding landscape is at its greenest. September is the wettest month of the year, and it still falls within the warm part of the year, so pack for frequent rain if you visit then.

Winters are cool and January is the coldest month on average, but snow is rare and light at most, so winter weather is unlikely to disrupt your travel plans.

Three days in Kodaira

Day one: Base yourself in Kodaira and get your bearings on the Seibu Shinjuku Line, which links Kodaira Station with Takadanobaba Station and Shinjuku Station in Tokyo Metropolis. If you are arriving from central Tokyo, the Seibu Shinjuku Line from Shinjuku or Takadanobaba is the straightforward approach; from Takadanobaba Station you can also connect with the JR Yamanote Line. An alternative is the JR Chūō Line to Kokubunji Station, then the Seibu Kokubunji Line onward. Spend the rest of the day walking the area around Kodaira Station and settling into the pace of this part of Tokyo Metropolis.

Day two: Ride the Seibu Tamako Line, which serves this corner of the city, and use it to reach the neighbourhoods along the route. Among the stops you can plan around are Hitobashi, Hagiyama, Ogawa and Takanodai, each with its own small-scale character. The Seibu Railway network, including the Seibu Haijima Line and the Tamako Line, makes it easy to move between these districts without returning to the centre. Keep the day unhurried and let the line itself set the shape of your wandering.

Day three: Head out towards the neighbouring area of Koganei, which sits close by and shares the same local railway connections. Use the Seibu lines and, where useful, JR East services to link the places you have not yet seen, whether that means doubling back through Kokubunji or continuing along the Tamako Line. If you are returning to Tokyo, the Seibu Shinjuku Line back towards Takadanobaba and Shinjuku is the natural way out. Finish with a last look around Kodaira before you leave.