Utsunomiya
Introduction
Located in the northern Kantō region of Japan, you will find Utsunomiya serving as the capital and largest city of Tochigi Prefecture. The city is renowned for its culinary scene, specifically for its famous gyoza.
You can explore a wide variety of dining options throughout the city, which hosts more than two hundred gyoza restaurants.
Before you go
Prepare for your visit by exploring the local culture centered around horse chestnut trees, which line numerous streets throughout the city and appear in many local products. You can also immerse yourself in the local music scene as you explore a "Jazz Town" known for its jazz heritage and cocktail bars.
If you have extra time, consider taking a bus to the nearby mining town of Oya. This neighboring area is famous for the distinctive greenish-gray volcanic stone used in many local buildings and serves as an excellent destination for a half-day or full-day trip.
Getting there
You can reach Utsunomiya by train from several major hubs. From Tokyo Station, you can board the Tohoku Shinkansen Yamabiko, Max Yamabiko, Nasuno, or Tsubasa trains for a quick journey. Alternatively, direct runs on the regular Tohoku Main Line depart from Ueno Station, while the Shonan-Shinjuku line offers another route from Shinjuku. If traveling from Asakusa, you can take the Tobu rapid train via Shin-Tochigi to reach Tobu-Utsunomiya station.
For those arriving by plane, several options connect you to the city:
- From Narita Airport, you can take the Narita Express to Tokyo Station before transferring to the Tohoku Shinkansen, or take a direct "Marronnier" airport limousine bus.
- From Haneda Airport, you can travel via the Keikyu Line to Shinagawa and then transfer to local lines toward Tokyo Station for a Shinkansen connection, or continue to Ueno to catch the JR Utsunomiya commuter line.
Getting around
You can navigate much of Utsunomiya on foot, as many shops, restaurants, and hotels are located within a short walk of both the east and west exits of Utsunomiya Station. While some areas like Orion-Dori or local jazz clubs require a slightly longer walk, the city is generally easy to traverse by foot. When traveling at night, you should remain cautious and carry your identification with you at all times for potential police checks.
For longer distances, several transportation options are available:
- A light rail line runs from the east exit of Utsunomiya Station across the Kinu River.
- Bus services operate from both the east and west exits, with specific routes serving areas like Bell Mall and Utsunomiya University.
- Taxis are readily available on the first floor of the west side of the station.
- You can rent a bicycle at a shop located near Lala Square Shopping Mall to explore the area.
Where to stay
You can choose from a variety of accommodations in the city, ranging from grand wedding hotels to practical business hotels featuring compact rooms. Depending on your preference for space or amenities, these options provide different experiences for your stay.
If you prefer a large and reliable chain, you can find clean, small rooms at Chisan Hotel Utsunomiya located near the west exit of the station. Alternatively, you can stay at Hotel Sunshine Utsunomiya on the east side of the station; this location is accessible via a pedestrian bridge and offers reasonable rates that often include a breakfast buffet.
Food & drink
Savor the local culinary scene by seeking out gyoza, a staple of the region served in various styles including sautéed, deep-fried, boiled, or steamed. You can find these dumplings throughout the city, with notable concentrations near the station and along Orion Dori. For a different culinary experience, you can enjoy hors d'oeuvres such as ham, bonito, or horsemeat carpaccio at a restaurant in Mageshi-cho.
Explore the local nightlife to experience Utsunomiya's reputation as a jazz and cocktail destination. You can find a variety of atmospheres depending on your preference:
- Visit a coffee shop decorated with Hawaiian and Polynesian kitsch for a unique atmosphere.
- Relax in an English-style pub that serves fish and chips.
- Explore dark bars offering extensive selections of cocktails, wines, and champagnes.
- Experience the 1960s Greaser style at a bar featuring live bands playing older hits.
- Visit a well-known nightclub for dance music and western food.
What to see and do
Explore the cultural landmarks of Utsunomiya, starting with the Utsunomiya Museum of Art or the fairy-themed art at the Utsunomiya Fairy Museum. For a taste of history, visit the reconstructed Utsunomiya Castle, which served as a resting place for royalty on their way to Nikko, or explore the Oya History Museum. This former mine features underground caverns with straight walls and biblical proportions. Nearby, you can find the Tenkaisan Ōya Temple, home to stone Buddhas carved in Central Asian style, and the Heiwa Kannon, a tall stone statue commemorating victims of the Second World War.
Experience the local atmosphere through diverse scenery and activities:
- Visit Futaarayama Shrine, known for its massive stairway leading to a large temple.
- Relax in Hachimanyama Park, a quiet spot featuring a tower-viewing area, a foot-bridge, and a velodrome where you can watch keirin bicycle races.
- Admire the Romanesque architecture of Matsugamine Church, constructed from Ōya Stone.
- Visit Romantic Mura to see tropical plants in a FlowerDome or relax in its large onsen.
- Interact with animals at the Utsunomiya Zoo.
- Stroll through Orion Square to find various public events and festivals held every weekend.
When to go
You can experience a variety of seasonal atmospheres depending on your preference for weather. During the summer months, you will encounter hot and humid conditions that persist throughout the season. If you visit in September, expect significant rainfall combined with lingering heat and humidity.
For a different experience, you can visit during the winter when the weather turns cool. This period offers a departure from the humid conditions of the warmer months.
Three days in Utsunomiya
Day one, you begin your journey from Tokyo Station or Narita Airport. You can take the Narita Express to reach Tokyo Station, or travel from Haneda Airport via the Keikyu Line and Shinkansen through Shinagawa to connect with the Tohoku Shinkansen.
Day two, you explore the local area after arriving at Utsunomiya Station. You can navigate the region using the JR Utsunomiya line or take the Tohoku Main Line to see the sights of Tochigi Prefecture.
Day three, you enjoy the atmosphere of Jazz Town before preparing for your departure from the city toward destinations such as Osaka or Kyoto.