Nara-shi

Getting around

Nara-shi is compact and largely walkable, and the practical key to getting around is understanding its two main railway stations. Kintetsu Nara Station sits at the eastern end of the Higashimuki shopping street, close to restaurants and the Nara Tourist Information Centre, and is the more convenient base for the central sights: roughly a ten-minute walk to Nara Park and about fifteen minutes to Naramachi. JR Nara Station lies west of the centre and is more commercial; it suits Japan Rail Pass holders, arrivals from Tennoji in southern Osaka, and trips to Hōryū-ji via the JR Yamatoji Line, but the walk to the park is longer. The two stations are about a kilometre apart, and both have coin lockers, tourist information, toilets and bus stops. Large lockers fill quickly on peak weekends, so store your luggage early on arrival.

Central Nara is pedestrian-friendly, and the headline attractions cluster together: Todai-ji, Kofuku-ji, Kasuga Taisha, Nara Park, Naramachi, Isuien Garden and the Nara National Museum can all be linked on foot. Walking is often faster than the bus between Kintetsu Nara Station, Nara Park, Todai-ji and the deer areas because of traffic and boarding time. Kintetsu Nara Station to Nara Park takes about ten minutes; Nara Park to Todai-ji about fifteen; Nara Park to Kasuga Taisha twenty to twenty-five; Kintetsu Nara Station to Naramachi ten to fifteen; Naramachi to Shin-Yakushi-ji about fifteen; and Todai-ji to Nigatsu-do and on to Kasuga Taisha about thirty. From JR Nara Station the walk to the park and Todai-ji is longer, so allow more time if you are based on that side of town. Note that pedestrian-first zones near the temples and deer paths require you to use designated parking if you are on a bicycle.

Two operators, Kintetsu Railway and JR West, run rail services throughout Nara, and both offer money-saving passes aimed at overseas visitors. Kintetsu trains from Kyoto and Osaka arrive at Kintetsu Nara Station, closer to the park and shopping streets; JR trains arrive at JR Nara Station and are covered by the Japan Rail Pass, which is not valid on Kintetsu. Kintetsu also serves outlying sights: for the Nishinokyō temples (Yakushi-ji and Toshodai-ji) you ride from Kintetsu Nara to Yamato-Saidaiji and transfer to Nishinokyō Station, from which both temples are a short walk, and the same line reaches Yamato-Saidaiji for the Heijō Palace Ruins. For Hōryū-ji, take the JR Yamatoji Line from JR Nara to Hōryūji Station, then walk or take a local bus. There is no metro or tram network in Nara; rail and bus cover the city. Be aware of rush hours on trains from Osaka and Kyoto in the morning and evening, and check the last departures to Osaka and Kyoto before heading out to dinner, since the final expresses leave in the late evening and a taxi onward to those cities is very expensive.

Nara Kotsu operates the prefecture's extensive bus network, reaching remote areas that rail does not serve, and runs tourist-friendly routes linking the key attractions in Nara City and areas such as Asuka. Buses run from both main stations to Todai-ji, Kasuga Taisha and other sites, and central sightseeing loop routes and sightseeing-oriented "Omotenashi" buses make the main circuit easy to follow. Low-floor buses are common on central routes, which helps wheelchair users, elderly travellers and those with strollers. Fares are flat within the central zone, and major IC cards such as ICOCA, Suica and Pasmo are accepted; keep coins as a backup. The Gurutto buses (red and blue) serve the city and are a cheap, simple way to hop between sights. Nara Kotsu sells day passes: a one-day pass covering Nara Park and Nishinokyo, a wider one-day pass adding Horyuji and Yamato Koriyama, and a two-day pass that also takes in Asuka, Murou and Sakurai, all including discounts at a large number of restaurants and shops in the area. A pass is generally worthwhile once you are making several bus rides in a day. Guided bus tours are another option: Nara Kotsu runs tours covering Nara Park, Horyuji and Nishinokyo with audio guides in English and Chinese and group discounts, while the Nara Visitor Center & Inn runs tours of Yamato Koriyama, Asuka, Sakurai and Kashihara with English-speaking guides and interactive cultural experiences. For most visitors, an IC card is the easiest default for trains and buses, with a Nara Kotsu day pass added if you plan a bus-heavy day.

Bicycle rental is widely available from numerous businesses and tourist information facilities around Nara. Many outlets offer battery-powered bicycles, which are helpful on hills, and some rental locations let you return the bike at a partner location elsewhere. Rental is a good way to reach the western temples, where the terrain is flat and traffic light, but remember that pedestrian-first zones near the temples require designated parking. Taxis are a convenient alternative to buses, especially in remote areas where buses from stations to attractions can be infrequent. They are metered, and stands can be found at Nara Park, outside JR Nara Station and outside Kintetsu-Nara Station. Within Nara City, taxis are more available and can sometimes be hailed at peak daytime times, though around Nara Park they can only be picked up from designated ranks along the park edge. Outside Nara City, taxis generally cannot be hailed and are available only from ranks outside train stations; phone ordering is possible but may require a local's help to explain your location in Japanese. If you are relying on taxis for outlying temples, plan around the ranks at stations rather than expecting to flag one down on the street.

Kansai International Airport (KIX) is the main gateway for Nara, with two practical ways into the city. By rail, take the JR Haruka limited express from KIX to Tennoji, then transfer to the Yamatoji Rapid to JR Nara; this route is covered by the Japan Rail Pass, and the transfer at Tennoji is the key step to watch for. By limousine bus, a direct service runs from KIX to Nara, taking longer than the train but requiring no transfer; buses have a luggage hold, which is useful if you are carrying large bags, and they run less frequently than the trains, so if you are arriving late, confirm the final bus of the day. Osaka's Itami Airport (ITM) is also served by a limousine bus to Nara, again with a luggage hold and no transfer required.

You do not need a car for central sightseeing; limited parking and pedestrianised areas make driving unhelpful there. A car is only really useful for rural Nara Prefecture, such as Yoshino and the southern villages. Both stations have coin lockers, and takkyubin luggage forwarding is available if you want to send bags ahead. Wayfinding at the stations requires some care at exits and platforms, so allow a little extra time when making connections. Check last JR and Kintetsu departures to Osaka and Kyoto before dinner, and note the transfer points you may need: Yamato-Saidaiji, Tennoji, Namba and Kyoto.

Three days in Nara-shi

Day one: Start at Kintetsu Nara Station, where the Nara Tourist Information Centre can help you plan your stay. Walk east into Nara Park to see Todai-ji and its Large Buddha, then continue to Kofuku-ji and Kasuga Taisha along the walking routes that link the park's temples and shrines. In the evening, head south into Naramachi, the old merchant quarter, for its narrow lanes and traditional atmosphere.

Day two: Give the day to Central Nara's cultural sights. Visit Isuien Garden and the Nara National Museum, then walk to the temples of Shin-Yakushi-ji and Nigatsu-do. If you want to travel further, take the JR Yamatoji Line from JR Nara Station toward Hōryū-ji, or use the Kintetsu Railway and JR West networks; a Japan Rail Pass covers JR services, and Kintetsu connects Nara with Kyoto, Osaka and Tennoji.

Day three: Head west to the Heijō Palace Ruins and the temple of Toshodai-ji, reached from Nishinokyō Station in the Nishinokyō area. Continue to Yakushi-ji, another major temple in this western district. If time allows, travel south on the Kintetsu line to Yamato-Saidaiji, or make the trip to Hōryū-ji, one of the region's oldest temple complexes.