Sasebo
Introduction
Sasebo is a core city in Nagasaki Prefecture, the second city of the prefecture after its capital, Nagasaki. It spreads across a total area of roughly 426 square kilometres, and its residents are distributed at a moderate density across that space.
Before you go
Sasebo is a calm city that still feels distinctly Japanese, and it is very English-ready for travellers. It is home to a U.S. Navy base, Fleet Activities Sasebo, and a Japan Self-Defense Force base, so you will find a strong English-speaking presence alongside everyday Japanese life. If you are travelling on military business, note that the U.S. Navy has accommodation on base for military personnel and veterans.
Part of downtown is known as Sailor Town, a small area frequented by U.S. service members. For planning, be aware that the local tourist association's guide site is Japanese-only, and it also covers the nearby island town of Ojika.
Getting there
Most travellers reach Sasebo by air via one of two regional gateways. The closest airport is in Nagasaki, from which a bus runs to Sasebo in about eighty minutes. Alternatively, fly into Fukuoka and take a highway bus from the Hakata bus terminal; the journey takes roughly two hours, with frequent departures. Booking bus tickets online is generally cheaper than buying in person, and a set of four tickets usable in either direction is also available.
By rail, Sasebo is the terminating station on the JR Omura Line and the westernmost point on the entire Japan Railway network. The Midori limited express connects it to Hakata station in Fukuoka, the last stop on the San'yo Shinkansen, in about one hour and forty-five minutes, reversing direction at Haiki station. Booking online in advance saves considerably over buying at a ticket counter or machine, and online booking also gives you an e-ticket with a QR code to scan at the gates and on board. The online system is not yet available in English, but machine translation or basic Japanese is enough to use it. Local trains from Hakata are cheaper but take three to four hours with multiple changes, so the bus or the express train is usually the better choice; a JR Kyushu one-day pass bought from a ticket shop is an option for a day trip. Sasebo is also linked to Nagasaki by the hourly Sea Side Liner rapid train, a journey of about one hundred minutes. If you are coming from further afield, overnight buses run into Fukuoka or Nagasaki, where you can connect to a bus or train for the final leg.
Getting around
Downtown Sasebo and its shopping arcade are compact and easily covered on foot, and walking is the best way to reach the central sights. The main railway station sits in the Miura-cho district, opposite the neogothic Miuramachi Catholic Church, which makes a useful landmark for orienting yourself. Beyond the centre, though, the city's many hills and its spread-out geography work against you: the mountains press close to downtown, so bicycles are not widely used, and there is no subway or inner-city train system, nor the streetcar network found in nearby Nagasaki. Without a car, you'll be relying on buses, taxis, rental vehicles and your own two feet.
Saihi Bus is the main option for getting around downtown, and it also serves the northern Kujukushima area and the mountain districts; its buses are marked with a blue and silver line and the company keeps an English-language website. Taxis make sense for outlying areas where buses don't conveniently go, and chartered sightseeing taxis guided by a certified "Sasebo Sightseeing Meister" can be arranged through the Sasebo Tourist Information Center, along with the Sightseeing Bus. Because there is no inner-city rail, a rental car is the most flexible way to explore beyond downtown, and it is the recommended approach on the outlying islands, where there are no buses or taxis. Ferries and high-speed ships leave Sasebo Port for islands including Ojika, Uku, Takashima, Kuroshima, Kami-Goto and Hirado; on the islands, sightseeing is best done by rental car or rental bicycle, and numbers are limited, so reserve ahead. On Kuroshima, rental electric bicycles are available for the World Heritage "Kuroshima Settlement" area, but you must pre-apply via the Kuroshima Sightseeing Association website and bring your health insurance card.
Where to stay
Most of Sasebo's accommodation lines the main street that runs parallel to the Gyoncho shopping arcade, so staying there puts you within walking distance of the arcade's shops and eateries. If you want something more old-school, the city also has a capsule hotel with a sauna.
- International Village Youth House — a very large hostel that resembles an American college dorm complex, with a gym, a cafeteria and a couple of fields. It sits right next to Huis ten Bosch and makes a good base for exploring the Nagasaki–Sasebo–Huis ten Bosch area. It has lots of rooms, all private, sleeping one to four people.
Food & drink
Sasebo's signature dish is the American-style hamburger, a legacy of the US Navy presence in the city. Local burgers typically come topped with a fried egg and bacon or ham. To be sure you're getting the genuine article, look for shops certified by the Sasebo Burger Association; most of these are in the downtown area.
- Mike's Tex Mex — superb, reasonably priced food; the place is small and popular, so you may end up waiting outside on the bench. Find it on the side street at the station end of the covered arcade.
- Skinny's — a small local spot just across the Albuquerque bridge to the left; ask any sailor for directions. The fried rice and ham & egg sandwiches hit the spot when you're only a little hungry.
- Rock & Roll Brats — traditional American brats, beer, drinks and coffee, with an American owner and English-speaking staff. Try the Sasebo Brat Burger, a brat take on the local specialty. It's in the Free Zone at the Huis ten Bosch Theme Park, a few stops on the Sea Side Liner from Sasebo.
Drinking establishments were once divided roughly between those serving base personnel and those serving the general populace, though economic conditions have blurred the distinction. Bars aimed at the general populace are interesting places with friendly proprietors; while they don't claim to speak English, they generally enjoy English conversation.
What to see and do
At the top of your list should be Huis ten Bosch, a Dutch-themed amusement park and the city's best-known attraction. Plan your day so you are still there in the evening, when fireworks are set off over the park. For a quieter pace, the city zoo is small but makes a genuine effort with its animal displays, and you are welcome to bring your own food and picnic on the grounds. Pearl Island Resort combines a small shopping mall of speciality shops and restaurants with an aquarium that focuses on creatures unique to the Sasebo area and the currents around Nagasaki Prefecture and its surrounding islands. The Japanese Maritime Self Defense Forces Museum covers the history of the Japanese SDF. From Kashimai pier you can join a 99 Islands tour aboard a pirate ship; if you visit in February, an oyster barbecue festival is held on the pier. On the northwest side of town, SASPA is a traditional Japanese spa with separate bathing areas for men and women, offering hot, mineral, salt and cold tubs, along with a movie room, a sleeping room, massages and an observation room for quiet time; you can also stay overnight.When to go
Sasebo has a humid subtropical climate, so what you pack depends heavily on when you go. The rainy season runs from early June to mid-July, bringing frequent rain and damp conditions — it is the wettest stretch of the year, so plan accordingly if your trip falls in that window.
- Early June to mid-July: the rainy season, with frequent rain and damp conditions.
- Summer: hot and humid; the rain eases after mid-July, but the heat and humidity carry on through the summer months.
- Winter: cool, with light snowfall possible and some freezing; precipitation is somewhat lower than the rest of the year.
Three days in Sasebo
Day one: Start in Downtown Sasebo, where the streets around Sailor Town give the city its distinctive flavour, shaped by the presence of Fleet Activities Sasebo and the Japan Self-Defense Force. The Miuramachi Catholic Church is a quiet landmark worth seeking out, and the Miura area rewards a slow wander. Signage and menus often appear in both Japanese and English, so getting your bearings is straightforward.
Day two: Head out to Kujukushima, the island-dotted seascape that defines this part of Nagasaki Prefecture. Saihi Bus services and taxis can get you to the waterfront, and boats run from the harbour out among the islands. If you would rather stay on land, the views from the shore are reason enough to make the trip.
Day three: Use Sasebo as a base for the wider region. The JR Omura Line and Japan Railway services connect you onward, with the Sea Side Liner offering a scenic run along the coast. Alternatively, head for Haiki to link up with the Shinkansen toward Fukuoka and Hakata, or take a local JR Kyushu train for a slower look at the countryside. Booking ahead is wise if you are travelling onward to Nagasaki or beyond.