Tsu
Introduction
Tsu is the capital of Mie Prefecture, and although it is not the prefecture's most populous city, its role as the seat of the prefectural government shapes what you will find there. A large concentration of national government offices and educational facilities gives Tsu its character as the administrative and educational center of Mie Prefecture, so expect a city whose rhythm is set by institutions rather than by tourism.
The city spreads across a substantial area, and its population is distributed at a relatively low density, which means built-up districts give way to open country within the same municipality. Plan for a place that functions first as a working prefectural capital, with the civic and academic life that comes with that role.
Before you go
Before you go, get the name right: Tsu is often claimed to be the world's shortest pronounceable city name. The vowel is like the one in the English word "too", but shorter and with less lip rounding, and it is typically voiceless — perceptible, yet sounding almost whispered. Because English speakers may struggle to hear the [t], the name can sound rather like "Sue", but pronouncing the [t] is essential to conveying the meaning. In Japanese the city is usually written with the character 津, or with つ, a hiragana symbol indicating the syllable [tsɯ]. It is the only Japanese city name consisting of a single kana, making it the shortest name for a place of any size in Japan. For practical planning, the local tourist association runs a multilingual guide site.Getting there
By train, Tsu sits on the Kintetsu Nagoya Line between Yokkaichi and Ise, with through service from Nagoya. The main station, Tsu (津駅), handles both Kintetsu and JR trains, and a basic ticket from Nagoya on the Kintetsu line is inexpensive. Limited express services cost extra and stop only at Tsu. Two smaller stations serve the city as well: Kintetsu Edobashi Station in the north, where most students get off for the university, and Kintetsu Tsu-Shinmachi Station in the south. You can alight at any of the three for the same fare, and other JR local line stations are scattered around the city. Tsu also lies on a direct line to Osaka; if you are coming from Kyoto, take the Kintetsu line and change at Yamato-Yagi, since the route via the Shinkansen to Nagoya is almost as long but twice the price.
By plane, Chubu Airport is linked to Tsu by a ferry taking 40 minutes, with a direct bus from the port to Tsu station and taxis also queuing at the port. The Tsu Airport Line ferries run directly between the city and Chubu Centrair International Airport, taking 40–50 minutes one-way.
Getting around
Tsu is split from north to south by Route 23, the highway running down the west coast of Ise Bay from Nagoya, and this is the single most useful fact for finding your way: orientate yourself relative to the road. Tsu railway station sits just off Route 23 towards the centre of town, and Edobashi station is likewise just off the highway, so the central area around the station is manageable on foot. For destinations further out, such as the university and hospital area, the bus is the better option.
- Buses run from outside Tsu station all over the city and are the main way to reach parts of town away from the railway. Routes are written in Romanised Japanese on the front of the bus; stops are signposted only in Japanese, so it helps to know your stop's name in Japanese or ask at your accommodation.
- At Tsu Station, passengers alight at one stop and board at another. The stop opposite the local police station and the branch of McDonald's serves several buses heading along Route 23 towards Mie University (三重大学 Mie Daigaku) and the University Hospital (大学病院 Daigaku Byouin).
- Board via the centre door and take a ticket, then look up its number on the board at the front of the bus to find your fare. On exit, deposit the exact money in the box next to the driver; you can change thousand-yen notes in a little machine.
- Taxis are available in the city and also queue at the airport ferry port, a convenient fallback if you arrive by boat and the bus does not suit your timing.
Where to stay
Most of Tsu's accommodation clusters around JR Tsu Station, where business hotels cater to travellers watching their budget. The Dormy Inn Tsu is the standout for thrifty visitors, offering short-stay packages built around pre-set time blocks; the midnight-to-8AM slot is the most appealing of these. Despite the limited hours, the hotel has been known to stretch checkout by a few hours for strictly non-smoking guests.
- Dormy Inn Tsu — budget-friendly short-stay deals near the station, with extended checkout possible for non-smokers.
- Green Park Hotel Tsu — pricier than its neighbours, but set practically on top of Tsu Station in the UST Tsu tower, the tallest building in the city. Rooms are comfortable and the views stretch for miles on a clear day, across the bay to Aichi Prefecture and along the Mie coastline toward Yokkaichi and Ise. Breakfast is a buffet on the first floor, and the same room serves an all-you-can-eat lunch buffet and afternoon tea. The hotel sits next to the station and bus stops, directly above the city and prefectural tourist offices.
Food & drink
Tsu is known for its unagi (eel) restaurants, and for Tsu Gyoza, a local style of gyoza that is far larger than the usual version served elsewhere — around 15 cm long. Fillings range from Matsusaka Beef to more unusual options such as Italian style and chocolate banana. Restaurants across the city serving Tsu Gyoza are listed on a special Tsu Gyoza map published by the city's tourist office, so pick one up to plan where to eat.
- Itaro — a ramen restaurant that also serves the city's famous Tsu Gyoza.
- Hashiya — a restaurant serving the city's famous unagi.
- Tower-Z — a pizza restaurant with live music performances.
For drinks, head to Bar Rosso, at the back of the UST Tsu Building by Tsu Station. This small bar is run by two medical students from Mie University and is more Western in style than the izakaya-style places in the area, with a counter and dim, candle-lit lighting. It is friendly and popular not only with businessmen but with younger people and students. The drinks list includes a large range of cocktails, whiskeys, ume-shu and sake. At lunchtime the bar becomes a community restaurant, with meals cooked by local amateur chefs on a rotating schedule; the menu is posted outside each day, and because lunches are limited to the first twenty customers, the more popular menus can sell out quickly.
What to see and do
Start your visit at the tourist offices in the UST Tsu building beside Tsu Station, where you can pick up maps, restaurant information and ideas for things to do. From there, the city's sights span history, art and religion. At the ruins of Tsu Castle you can see the remaining moat and walls, a reconstructed turret, and a statue of Todo Takatora at the centre of the site; the original castle was built by Oda Nobunaga's son Nobukane and destroyed in battle. Tsu Kannon and Yuki Shrine are among the city's religious sites, and the shrine is one of the most famous places to enjoy plum blossoms in late February and mid-March. For museums, the MieMu displays objects uncovered within the prefecture, historic artefacts and information on how Mie has changed over the years, along with local flora and fauna, while the Mie Prefectural Art Museum and the Sekisui Museum offer further collections. A short trip out of the city brings you to more unusual attractions. The Japon Louvre Sculpture Museum, just outside SakakibaraOnsenguchi Station, features replicas of famous sculptures from the Louvre, and nearby Daikanon-ji is named after its large statue of Kannon, the Goddess of Mercy. Outside Hisai Station's east exit, in Midori no Kaze Park, a statue commemorates Hidesaburō Ueno, born in Hisai, and his loyal dog Hachiko, who waited at a train station for his master for almost ten years. To soak and unwind, head to Yuno-sho, part of Sakakibara Onsen, where day visitors can enjoy indoor springs and an outdoor rotemburo.Three days in Tsu
Day one: Arrive in Tsu, the capital of Mie Prefecture, and get your bearings. The city sits on Ise Bay, and its layout rewards a slow first day. Start around Edobashi, where buses and routes connect the centre, and use Kintetsu Tsu or Shinmachi Station as your anchor. Because English signage is limited, pick up a plan before you set out and rely on romanised Japanese for place names. In Japanese, "The" and "It" appear in phrases you may see on signs, so a little language preparation helps. Sue, a common name, is not a place - don't confuse it with your destination.
Day two: Use the Kintetsu Nagoya Line for a day trip. From Kintetsu Tsu, you can head toward Yokkaichi, Ise or Nagoya. Kintetsu and JR both serve the region, and limited express services make longer hops easier. If you are coming from Osaka, Kyoto, Yamato or Yagi, the Shinkansen and Kintetsu routes link up, though Chubu Airport and Chubu Centrair International Airport are your main aviation gateways. The Tsu Airport Line and Route buses connect the airport side. For a slower day, stay local and walk the bay area near Ise Bay.
Day three: Return to the centre and fill any gaps. Kintetsu Edobashi Station and Kintetsu Tsu are useful starting points, and local buses cover routes around Edobashi. Before you leave, check your plan against the romanised Japanese names you have collected. Because English is not widespread, writing down your destination in Japanese script helps drivers and station staff. Two full days may be enough for Tsu itself, so use the third for a final loop through the city before heading onward to Nagoya, Ise or the airport.