Odawara
Introduction
Odawara is a city in Kanagawa Prefecture, Japan. It sits within a total area of roughly 114 square kilometres, and its residents are spread across the city at a fairly urban density.
Before you go
Odawara is a city where you can get by with a little preparation, but not entirely on English. The tourist information desk inside Odawara Station is the place to pick up sightseeing information, though you should not expect much English to be spoken there. For planning ahead, an English-language guide site run by the local tourism association is available, and the city's official site carries a modest multilingual section on tourism. Beyond that, the source material offers little practical groundwork, so arrive ready to rely on Japanese or a translation tool for the details of your visit.Getting there
From Tokyo, the Tokaido Shinkansen Kodama all-stations service is the fastest option, reaching Odawara in a few stops; select Hikari services also stop here, with direct runs from Osaka, Kyoto and Nagoya, though at other times you will likely change en route to a Kodama. The regular JR Tokaido Line locals also serve the station, and all JR journeys are covered by the Japan Rail Pass, though the regional JR East Rail Pass will not cover the Tokaido Shinkansen. The private Odakyu railway runs mainline services from Shinjuku, with commuter trains taking roughly an hour and a half and flagship "Romance Car" expresses offering reserved seating for a surcharge; choose between the Hakone service, which stops in Odawara en route to Hakone, and the Sagami, which terminates here. Some late services run under the name Home Way. Arriving by plane, the quickest route from Narita is the JR Narita Express to Shinagawa, then a walk to the Shinkansen platforms for the Kodama; a cheaper but slower alternative is transferring to a local JR Tokaido Line train at Shinagawa. From Haneda, take the Keikyu Railway to Yokohama and transfer to the JR Tokaido Line. Mount Fuji-Shizuoka Airport in Shizuoka handles a few international flights from elsewhere in Asia, with a bus to Shizuoka station and Kodama bullet trains onward from there. If you have a reservation at a ryokan in or around Odawara and your plane lands later in the day, consider spending your first evening in Tokyo or Yokohama, or you risk missing dinner or being locked out at the ryokan's curfew time. Overnight buses also run to Odawara from Kyoto and Osaka.Getting around
Odawara is a compact castle town, and most of it is easy to cover on foot. Use Odawara Station as your base: the station district holds the shops and restaurants, and the city's best-known sights, including Odawara Castle, sit within short walking distance of the station area. Biking is another option, with routes such as the Sakawa River Cycling Road, bicycle rentals near Odawara Station, and some accommodations that cater to cyclists; be aware that some areas are hilly and may be challenging for casual cyclists.
For anything beyond the centre, rail does the work. Odawara Station is the anchor of the local network, served by several operators whose lines fan out from the station, and there is no metro or tram system in the city. The JR Tokaido Shinkansen stops here, with the all-stations Kodama the most frequent way to use it and select Hikari services also stopping; all JR journeys are covered by the Japan Rail Pass, though the regional JR East Rail Pass does not cover the Tokaido Shinkansen. Local JR Tokaido Main Line services run along the coast and are useful for nearby towns and connections toward Yokohama, while the JR Central Gotemba Line branches off toward the Gotemba side. The private Odakyu Odawara Line runs between Shinjuku in Tokyo and Odawara, with commuter trains as the cheap option and the reserved-seat Romance Car express for a surcharge and a slightly faster trip. The Hakone Tozan Line climbs from Odawara to Hakone-Yumoto, the gateway to the Hakone hot springs resort area, and the Izuhakone Railway Daiyuzan Line gives access to the Buddhist temple at Daiyuzan. Buses fill in the gaps beyond the rail lines, connecting Odawara to the Izu Peninsula, and overnight buses run to Odawara from Kyoto and Osaka. The source does not describe taxi or ride-hailing services, so plan on rail and buses as your primary options and arrange any taxi needs locally on arrival.
Where to stay
Odawara's accommodation is concentrated around the station area, which makes sense for a city that works well as a base for the surrounding region. The Toyoko Inn Odawara Station Higashi-guchi is a business hotel chain property on the east side of the station, handy if you want to be within easy reach of the platforms and the start of your day's travels. Beyond that, the source material lists no budget or splurge options, so you will need to look further afield or book ahead if you want something outside the mid-range business-hotel mould. Staying near the station keeps you close to transport connections, which is the main practical consideration when choosing where to sleep here.Food & drink
Odawara is known for kamaboko, fish paste that is boiled or steamed into various shapes and sold by many famous shops around the city. You'll also find himono, dried fish for which Odawara is well known, made with aji (horse mackerel), and umeboshi, the sour pickles made from plums cultivated by farmers in the surrounding area. Many restaurants offer odawaradon, a rice bowl built from typical local products such as kamaboko and umeboshi. Local ramen styles include Odawara-kei ramen and Odawara-kei tantanmen. For a sit-down meal, Daruma is a traditional tempura restaurant founded in the Meiji era, housed in a building listed for the protection of historic monuments, a 10-15 minute walk from Odawara Station. Ajiichi Hojo serves ramen with a himono-based broth, topped with kamaboko and served in a wooden bowl with an optional set of mix-in pastes based on local ingredients. Harekonami, a 3-minute walk from the station, prepares a kaiseki course centered on fish dishes, cooking fish and local vegetables auctioned each morning at Manazuru Port and finishing with handmade 100% buckwheat noodles; reservations are recommended. For ramen on a budget, Kumamoto Ramen "Bodh-Gaya" is about 10 minutes' walk from Odawara Station. When you want a drink, 7th Nest is a cool jazz bar a short walk from the station's east exit, with English-speaking staff and mid-range prices.What to see and do
Odawara Castle is the city's main sightseeing spot, and the castle tower gives you a view over the whole of Odawara. Inside, ancient objects such as weapons and tools are on display, with basic English descriptions available. The grounds host events through the year, including the Hojo Godai Festival and the Ume Festival, and in springtime it is a good place to view cherry blossoms.
- Kanagawa Prefectural Museum of Natural History — a large museum two stops from Odawara Station on the Hakone Tozan Line, focusing on the natural history of Kanagawa Prefecture, including sea life found in Sagami Bay. It has an extensive geology section on the formation of the Japanese isles and large displays of volcanic rock from Australia and northern Canada.
- Chinriu Honten — a shop near Odawara Station selling products made from ume (Japanese apricot) since 1871. At the back there is a historical section with a barrel more than 140 years old used to produce umeboshi, plus a display of pickles dating back to the company's founding. You can taste a wide selection of products for free, and on weekends a multilingual person is often on hand to help.
For entertainment, karaoke is popular and there are many lounges offering all-you-can-drink packages. Near Odawara Station you'll find an arcade with purikura machines, which are popular with kids, along with other arcade games. Two festivals are worth timing a visit around: the Odawara Ume Festival, held in the Soga neighborhood in late February with shuttle buses from Odawara Station, is a chance to contemplate plum blossoms; and the Odawara Hojo Godai Festival, held near the castle in May, is a large, lively event named for the five heads of the Hojo clan who ruled the area in the 16th century, with street stalls selling barbecued chicken, yo-yos and more, and locals carrying an omikoshi.
When to go
Odawara has a humid subtropical climate, so plan around warm, humid summers and cool, generally dry winters. August is the hottest month on average, bringing sticky, muggy days and the heaviest tourist traffic of the year. If you prefer fewer crowds and lower prices, winter is the quiet season: January is the coldest month, with only light snowfall or none at all. September stands out as the wettest month, so expect frequent downpours and pack rain gear. The summer heat is easing by then, but humidity and the risk of storms remain high.Three days in Odawara
Day one: Arrive at Odawara Station, the gateway to the region, which is easily reached from Tokyo on the Tokaido Shinkansen Kodama or Hikari services, or via the JR Tokaido Line. If you are coming from Shinjuku, the Odakyu Romance Car offers a direct route, and the station also connects onward to Hakone. Once settled, spend your first afternoon getting your bearings in Odawara itself, a castle town in Kanagawa Prefecture. Use the evening to rest and plan, especially if you have travelled far — from Osaka, Kyoto or Nagoya on the Shinkansen, or from Narita via the JR Narita Express and Shinagawa. A Japan Rail Pass or JR East Rail Pass can make these journeys straightforward.
Day two: Devote the day to Odawara's most famous sight, its castle, and the surrounding streets. The town's identity is tied to this landmark, and the views from the keep are a highlight. On clear days you can see Mount Fuji to the north. The castle is within easy reach of Odawara Station, so you can walk or take a short bus ride. In the afternoon, explore the local shops and try regional food; Sagami Bay is nearby, so seafood features prominently. If you have time, the Some Way and Home Way routes offer pleasant walks through the area.
Day three: Use Odawara as a base for a day trip to Hakone, reached by the Odakyu line or the Hakone Tozan Railway from Odawara Station. Alternatively, head to Yokohama or continue toward Shizuoka. If you are departing, the Tokaido Shinkansen connects you to Tokyo, Nagoya, Kyoto and Osaka, while the JR Tokaido Line serves local destinations. From Haneda, the Keikyu Railway links to Shinagawa, where you can pick up the Shinkansen. Shizuoka Airport is another option for onward travel. Allow time to return to Odawara Station before your departure.