Atsugi
Introduction
Atsugi is a city in Kanagawa Prefecture, Japan. Its name is often linked with Naval Air Facility Atsugi, but the base itself lies outside the city, straddling the border between the nearby cities of Ayase and Yamato — so don't expect the base to be your reference point when you arrive.
Before you go
Before you go, it helps to know that Atsugi sits in Kanagawa Prefecture, within easy reach of both Tokyo and the mountains of Hakone. The city makes a practical base for exploring the wider Kanto region, whether you are heading into the city or out toward the coast and hot springs. Plan around the seasons rather than a single sight: summers here are hot and humid, while winters are cold enough to warrant warm layers. Note that the local tourist association runs a Japanese-only guide site with integrated Google Translate, so you can browse it in English, though the machine translation can be rough. Sorting your transport and accommodation before you arrive will make the most of your time in the area.Getting there
Atsugi is a commuter town with direct limousine bus links to both Haneda and Narita airports, which can be easier than combining trains. Buses are operated by Kanagawa Chuo Kotsu and partner companies, with several return trips daily to each airport. If you prefer rail from Narita, travel into Shinjuku and change to the Odakyu Railway; from Haneda, take the Keikyu Line Airport Express to Yokohama, then the Sotetsu Line to Ebina, and finally the Odakyu Railway. The main train station is Hon-Atsugi, on the Odakyu Railway between Tokyo and Odawara. Commuter trains from Shinjuku take under an hour, while from Odawara, a stop on the Tokaido Shinkansen, local Odakyu trains take around forty minutes. Limited express Romancecar trains with reserved seating stop at Hon-Atsugi once or twice per hour, shaving some time off the journey for an additional surcharge. By car, Atsugi is served by Atsugi Interchange on the Tomei Expressway, with further expressway access to the south at Atsugi-Minami Interchange on the Shin-Tomei Expressway.Getting around
Atsugi sits in the hilly centre of Kanagawa Prefecture, roughly midway between central Tokyo and central Yokohama, and works largely as a commuter town. For your visit, that means the network is built around rail, with a compact core around the main station and buses filling in the rest. The Odakyu Electric Railway's Odawara Line is the backbone, running to Tokyo's Shinjuku area in one direction and Odawara in the other. Your natural base is Hon-Atsugi, the main train station; a second Odakyu station, Aiko-Ishida, also serves the city. Hon-Atsugi is served by different classes of train, so you can trade cost against speed. Ordinary commuter services are perfectly practical and considerably cheaper, while the reserved-seat limited express "Romancecar" stops one to two times per hour and shaves time off the journey for an additional surcharge on top of the base fare — worth considering if you are travelling with luggage or at a busy time of day.
Beyond the railway, buses are the main way of reaching parts of the city the train does not serve, and the most useful for visitors is the airport limousine bus, operated by Kanagawa Chuo Kotsu and partner companies, which links Atsugi directly with both of Tokyo's major airports. Note that the city has no metro or tram network, so plan around train and bus rather than expecting urban rail. If you are driving, Atsugi is served by Atsugi Interchange on the Tomei Expressway, with further expressway access to the south at Atsugi-Minami Interchange, and the city sits on several national routes, including Route 129 to Hiratsuka or Sagamihara, Route 246 to central Tokyo or Numazu, Route 271 to Odawara, and Route 412 to Sagamiko. Because the city is organised around Hon-Atsugi, the area immediately around that station is the most practical place to base yourself if you want to cover everyday needs on foot.
Where to stay
For overnight stays, your main option in Atsugi is the Rembrandt Hotel, described as the only tourist hotel in the city. It sits at 2-13-1 Nakamachi, about five minutes on foot from Atsugi station, which makes it a practical base if you are arriving or leaving by train.
- The hotel has 164 rooms, all with LAN access.
- On-site dining covers Japanese and Chinese restaurants as well as café dining.
- The property has been renamed more than once, previously operating as Atsugi Royal Park Hotel and later as Loisir before taking the Rembrandt name.
Food & drink
For a drink, head to the Sankt Gallen Brewery Taproom in Nakacho, the taproom for the local Sankt Gallen brewery. Around twenty beers are available on tap, including seasonal pours, and the kitchen turns out cheeses, sausages and light meals to go with them.What to see and do
For a temple visit, head to Iiyama Kannon, also known as Chokukuji Temple, in the Iiyama area. The temple is open daily. To soak and unwind, the Iiyama area is also home to Atsugi Iiyama Onsen, while Nanasawa Onsen Ryokan Fukumatsu offers another bathing option in Nanasawa. If you would rather spend the day outdoors, Mount Ōyama in Nanasawa makes for an easy day hike.When to go
Atsugi has a humid subtropical climate, so your packing and timing depend largely on how you handle heat and rain. Summers are warm and humid, with temperatures peaking on average in August; expect the heat and mugginess typical of the season, and plan on light clothing and plenty of hydration while sightseeing. Winters are cool with little to no snow, and January is the coldest month on average. Snow is rare, so winter weather is unlikely to disrupt your travel, though you will still want warm layers.
- Summer: Warm and humid, hottest on average in August — dress lightly and stay hydrated.
- Winter: Cool with light to no snowfall, coldest on average in January — bring warm layers, but don't expect snow to cause problems.
- September: The wettest month of the year, so rain is most likely then — pack rain gear and keep indoor options handy.
Three days in Atsugi
Day one: Arrive in Japan through Haneda or Narita, then make your way to Atsugi in Kanagawa Prefecture. Buses run by Kanagawa Chuo Kotsu connect the airports, and rail options include the Keikyu Line Airport Express toward Yokohama, the Odakyu Railway from Shinjuku, and the Sotetsu Line. Once in Atsugi, settle in and get your bearings. Note that English signage is not everywhere, so keep Google Translate handy. If you are sorting out your route, remember that Atsugi sits within the Kanto region, convenient to Tokyo, Yokohama, Ebina, Yamato, Ayase, Hon, and Odawara.
Day two: Base yourself in Atsugi and explore the surrounding area. The city is known in part for Its Naval Air Facility Atsugi, a presence that shapes the local character. Use the rail network to reach nearby places: the Odakyu and Sotetsu lines serve the area, and the Tokaido Shinkansen stops at Odawara if you want to head further along the coast. For a day trip, consider Hakone, reachable via the Odakyu Limited Express Romancecar. Commuter trains make short hops between Atsugi, Ebina, Yamato, and Yokohama straightforward.
Day three: If you are driving, the Atsugi Interchange on the Tomei Expressway and the Minami Interchange give you road access for a final loop. Before you leave, plan your return to Haneda or Narita with the same bus and rail connections you used on arrival. Sorting out your tickets in advance helps, and Google Translate remains useful for any Japanese you need along the way.