Hakodate

Introduction

You will find Hakodate situated as a coastal port city within the Oshima Subprefecture of Hokkaido. Serving as the capital of its subprefecture, it offers you a distinct location on the island's landscape.

Before you go

You will find that Hakodate’s history as an early port of trade is reflected in its architecture, which bears clear signs of foreign influence. While you explore the city on Hokkaido's southern coast, you can trace its past as a significant settlement for explorers and its evolution following a major fire that reshaped the local landscape.

When traveling during the winter months, be mindful of icy conditions and black ice on the streets and sidewalks. Regarding your personal safety, while the city is generally safe from petty crime, you should remain cautious if approached by individuals in tourist areas claiming to be in distress and requesting cash; in such instances, you can direct them to a nearby police box.

You can reach Hakodate by air via direct flights from Sapporo, Tokyo-Haneda, Nagoya-Centrair, Osaka-Itami, and Taipei-Taoyuan. Upon arrival at Hakodate Airport, you can take a bus to reach various locations including Goryokaku Park, Yunokawa Onsen, or the local station. Alternatively, taxis are available for travel to the city center, the coastal areas, or the ferry terminal.

Train travelers can access the city through Hakodate Station, Goryōkaku Station, or Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto Station. The Hayabusa bullet train and the Hakodate Liner provide connections between these hubs, while the Hokuto limited express travels further north toward Onuma Quasi-National Park. If you prefer to travel by sea, ferries operate from the local terminal to Aomori or the Shimokita Peninsula.

Getting around

You can navigate the city using a network of streetcar lines and numerous bus routes. When boarding, you may use an IC card or purchase a ticket; if you pay with cash, ensure you have the exact amount. If you need to exchange coins or large bills for smaller denominations, utilize the machine located next to the ticket box, though certain larger bills and specific coins must be exchanged directly with the driver.

The streetcar system consists of two lines that run from Yunokawa until they branch at Jūjigai. You can choose between a day pass for the streetcar, the bus, or a combined pass for both modes of transport. While most passes are available online, you can still purchase a paper pass specifically for the streetcar from the driver when you get off.

Where to stay

You can choose from a variety of accommodations near the train station that cater to different preferences for comfort and atmosphere. For those seeking a traditional Japanese experience, you might prefer a cozy inn with tatami rooms or a Spartan minshuku-style stay. If you prefer a more modern convenience, several business hotels are located directly across from or adjacent to the station, offering clean rooms and breakfast. Some of these options provide a more upscale feel, including a hotel where you can enjoy views of the bay or a bar on a high floor with scenic vistas.

Depending on your group size and budget, other unique options are available nearby. You might choose a historic building that offers everything from shared dormitories to large family rooms near the red brick warehouse area. For a nostalgic atmosphere, you can stay in a pension featuring well-maintained vintage furniture and both Japanese and Western-style rooms.

• Oyado Aozora Inn: A cozy inn with tatami rooms and laundry facilities located a short walk from the station.
• Minshuku Sumitomo: Offers traditional 15-tatami style rooms.
• Tōyoko Inn (Asaichi and Ekimae Daimon): Convenient options near the station, with the Asaichi location situated closer to the morning market.
• Comfort Hotel Hakodate: A business hotel located across the square from the train station.
• Premier Hotel Cabin President Hakodate: Features a high-floor bar with views of the city.
• Hakodate Kokusai Hotel: Located near the red brick warehouse area and the old part of town, offering potential bay views.
• HakoBA Hakodate: Situated in a historic bank building south of the Kanemori Red Brick Warehouse, providing various room types for groups or individuals.
• Pension Puppy Tail: Offers a nostalgic atmosphere with both Japanese- and Western-style rooms.

Food & drink

Savor the local flavors of Hakodate, where squid is the signature fish and a staple of the regional cuisine. You can enjoy Hakodate shio rāmen, a noodle dish featuring a salty broth made from squid stock instead of pork, or visit the Mori-machi area for renowned ika-meshi, which is rice-stuffed squid. For a more daring culinary experience, try odori-don or ike ika-don at stalls near the Morning Market; these dishes feature live squid caught from a tank and served over rice while it is still fresh enough to move its tentacles.

Explore various dining styles across different neighborhoods:

• Visit the Morning Market near the train station for an array of seafood preparations.
• Experience the kitsch atmosphere of Lucky Pierrot, a local chain famous for its "Chinese Chicken" and the towering Mount Hakodate burger.
• Relax in the akarenga district at a red brick warehouse that blends German beer hall aesthetics with a menu of seafood and Western specialties like pizza and spaghetti.
• Find traditional flavors at Teuchi Soba Kitawase, where you can enjoy soba sets and soba-flavored soft-serve ice cream, or visit Hokkai Ramen for specialty char siu.
• Indulge in pastries at Rabbit Farm, which offers sweet rolls, apple pies, and chocolate sticks, or head to King Bake for European-style croissants and curry buns.

The city features two main drinking districts: Daimon near the station and Goryōkaku, particularly Hon-Cho, where many establishments cater to international visitors. You can find a variety of atmospheres, from an English-style standing room bar featuring Belgian beers and a spacious Irish pub with Guinness on tap, to elegant settings or more casual spots like Bagus.

What to see and do

Experience the striking views of Mount Hakodate, where you can take a ropeway or bus to witness one of the world's premier night views. Nearby, explore the historical Motomachi district to see European-style architecture like the Old Public Hall of Hakodate Ward and various historic churches and consulates. You can also visit Fort Goryōkaku, a star-shaped fortress that serves as a large park and a popular spot for viewing cherry blossoms in the spring or illuminated snow in the winter. For a different perspective, the Goryōkury Tower offers high vantage points to see the fort and surrounding scenery across various seasons.

Explore the local culture and history through these diverse sites:

• Kanemori Red Brick Warehouses, where you can stroll through an atmospheric area of lit-up buildings and enjoy seafood.
• Hakodate Museum of Northern Peoples to learn about Ainu culture.
• The Seikan Ferry Memorial Museum Mashu-maru, located on an old ferry.
• Hakodate Tropical Botanical Garden, featuring a greenhouse with various plants and monkeys.
• Kōzen Temple and Ooyamazumi Shrine in the Kameo area to experience seasonal scenery and traditional elements.

Three days in Hakodate

Day one, you begin your journey in the historic atmosphere of Hakodate. You can explore the grounds of Goryokaku Park or visit the nearby area around Goryōkaku Station to experience the local character.

Day two, you travel toward the relaxing waters of Yunokawa Onsen. You can spend your time soaking in the hot springs or exploring the surrounding district of Yunokawa.

Day three, you take a train ride through the scenic landscapes of Hokkaido. You can enjoy the views while traveling toward the Onuma Quasi National Park area.